Costa Rica, Family Travel Turney Maurer Costa Rica, Family Travel Turney Maurer

Is Costa Rica a Year Round Destination?

Did you know that Costa Rica is a destination that can be enjoyed year-round and offers a variety of different activities to experience in the Green or Dry Season? We share some tips and advice for arranging trips there now.

Talks with Turney: Is Costa Rica a Year Round Destination?

Costa Rica, the land of “Pura Vida” meaning pure life and all that encompasses it.  To me, that saying means enjoying what Costa Rica has to offer from surfing, hiking to waterfalls, dancing to reggaeton at a beach bar with an Imperial in-hand, or adventuring among sloths and monkeys at a National Park. It seems as though a big rumor has spread that Costa Rica is only a 6-month destination to visit. Therefore, I took a deep dive into learning about different things to do throughout the calendar year in various destinations of CR.

Costa Rica Enjoyable All Year

For the past year and a half, I have been traveling to CR regularly. Throughout that time, I’ve been fortunate to make friends with many locals from the hotels that we work with. They have welcomed me into their country and helped me uncover the best-known experiences that we can offer to all of you.

After speaking with several of these local experts, I was quickly reminded that the answer is absolutely yes. Costa Rica is a fantastic country to visit year-round. With 12 different climatic zones scattered throughout the country, there are windows of months where some regions are better than others. That is why it’s important to plan a Costa Rica journey with an expert.

You’ll see in the following text that from December – April Costa Rica is known as the “Dry Season” where the entire country is mostly sunny and dry. May – November is known as “Green Season.”

When I learned that it is possible to watch sea turtles nesting in Tortuguero National Park, or scuba dive/snorkel in sunny Puerto Viejo at Aguas Claras, both during the month of September – I was quite surprised. Meanwhile, at the same time of year, it is likely to be raining on the Pacific! I remember seeing online that parts of Jaco were flooding, meanwhile people at Aguas Claras were sending me pictures of sunshine and calm Caribbean waters.

So in this case, you truly need to know before you go.


Sample Itineraries

Before I reveal all of these hidden gems, I’ve created 2 sample itineraries — one of them highlighting the Caribbean side of Costa Rica and the other focusing on the Pacific. Remember, both of these itineraries are great choices for the Dry Season, but they are slightly different for Green Season.

*Feel free to save and share this itinerary with your clients, you can replace the logo and contact details with your own in the header and footer. You can have this itinerary quoted by your DMC or Tour Operator of choice, or work with the properties direct. If you need help with this document or how to book, please email me.


Weather in Costa Rica (Pacific Vs. Caribbean)

In Costa Rica, weather conditions around the country during Dry Season tends to be mostly the same. Sunny and dry. However, did you know that climate varies quite significantly between the west (Pacific) side of CR compared to the east (Caribbean) during Green Season? There are some major differences that I will help clear up. Use the table below to serve as a guide for navigating through each month.

Costa Rica Dry Season (December – May)

PROS

  • Sunniest and driest time of year

  • Epic sunsets

  • Great surfing early in the dry season

  • Livelier scene, everyone is out and about

  • Less intense white-water rafting

  • Great for snorkeling and swimming on the Pacific

  • Still an abundance of wildlife at most National Parks besides Guanacaste & Nicoya Peninsula

CONS

  • More crowds and tourists

  • Pricier accommodations

  • Limited availability; better to book in advance

  • Pricier; less available flight options

  • More traffic on the roads

  • Longer customs lines at SJO

  • Dusty and dry



    December – January

  • Sunny & still a bit humid from Green Season

  • Still an abundance of wildlife

  • Good time for surfing beginner to advanced waves on Pacific & Caribbean

February – April

  • Sunny and dry; least amount of rainfall throughout the country

  • Less wildlife and flora & fauna in certain areas

  • Smaller waves for surfing

May

  • The month of May is technically the start of rainy season, this time of year is typically coined “shoulder season” where it is transitioning from months of dry weather to more rainfall. This is a great time of year to visit because you have the opportunity to get the best of both seasons.


Costa Rica Green Season (June – November)

PROS

  • Less tourists

  • Better rates at hotels and villas (more deals, too)

  • Less lines for customs at SJO

  • More flight availability

  • Best time of year to catch bigger waves

  • An abundance of wildlife on land and sea

  • Flora and fauna blooming

  • Rain cools things off

CONS

  • Need a rain coat!

  • Some regions get more rain than others during certain months

  • Takes more knowledge and expertise to plan an itinerary

  • Still hot and humid when not raining

June – August

  • Great time to visit the Pacific — “Sunny mornings and rainy evenings” is the motto

  • Abundance of wildlife on land and sea

  • Biggest waves for surfing

  • Whitewater rafting is more intense

  • High season rates apply from July 1st – Aug 15th most places (summer vacation)

*The Caribbean side of Costa Rica — Tortuga Lodge, Pacuare Lodge, and Hotel Aguas Claras typically receive more rainfall during these months than the Pacific.

September – October

  • This time of year is the best hidden secret in Costa Rica. The country remains in Rainy Season, but the Caribbean receives a mysterious break from heavy rainfall during this window.

  • At Aguas Claras in Puerto Viejo, high season rates actually apply from Sep 21 – Dec 21; different from the rest of the country

  • Small waves, calm ocean

  • Best time to watch sea turtles nest and hatch in Tortuguero National Park

  • Excellent conditions for whitewater rafting to Pacuare Lodge

November

  • Similar to May, this is a great time of year to visit because it is the shoulder season, transition from Green to Dry. Again, opportunity to get best of both worlds.


Why You Should Visit Costa Rica During Wildlife Season

Recently, the Cayuga Collection Executive Marketing team decided to create their own catchy phrase for “Rainy Season” to what they now call “Wildlife Season.” I was curious of what exactly that meant, so I reached out to Hans to see what his interpretation was.

“The idea sparked after I talked to Mauricio, one of the guides at Arenas del Mar.  I asked him the best time of year to see wildlife and he told me ‘The best time is when the rain stops. This is because all of the animals come out of their shelter to go looking for food and they become active.’ So, what happens in the wildlife season is that you have rain, but of course it doesn’t rain all the time. It just rains for a few hours and often it rains at night. Therefore, especially in the morning, the forest is just bustling with wildlife. At the same time there are turtles hatching, whales migrating, animals with their babies and much more. It is really a magical moment, not to talk about just the wildlife animals, but the flora and fauna how everything is coming back to life.

- Hans Pfister, Co-Founder of Cayuga Collection

Of course, there are many advantages to visiting Costa Rica in the dry season. In my opinion, seeing otherworldly sunsets during that time is worth the extra money, especially while many parts of the United States, Europe, and Canada are absolutely freezing cold/snowing. That alone can be a major factor on deciding on when to visit CR. Can’t blame people for wanting to escape the cold, especially when paradise is waiting for you.

However, for nature lovers and those looking to travel at a more tranquil pace with less crowds, the Green Season is perfect. The best part is that you have the opportunity to spend less, but experience something different. Local guides and hotel staff aren’t as busy during this time.

Wildlife season on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica.
Guests at Arenas del Mar enjoying a tour of Manuel Antonio National with one of ADM’s local expert guides.


Advice from the Locals –
“Visit Costa Rica During Green Season”

In this section, hear from the experts on the ground as they provide their take on why visiting Costa Rica during the Green Season is actually a great idea.


Tortuga Lodge
Tortuguero National Park; northwest Caribbean

Juan introducing our group to the local family at Laguna 4. Shortly after, we feasted on local favorite foods, played soccer with the kids, and drank fresh coconut water!

Juan Molina Guadamuz is a certified naturalist guide at Tortuga Lodge who moved from Limon to Tortuguero at the young age of 2 and has been there ever since. The first time I met Juan was last June when I led a FAM Trip to Tortuga Lodge with a group of travel advisors. Juan led many of our tours and even took us kayaking through the less-traveled canals of Tortuguero National Park where we ended at a village. He introduced us to a family that lived on “Laguna 4” and they served us some local traditional favorite foods. It was a day to remember, and the entire group (myself included) was moved by how much tradition and culture is to be found in this Amazonia-like nook of Costa Rica.

Juan told us that he worked at Tortuga Lodge prior to when it was purchased by Böëna Wilderness Lodges. When Roberto and Luz created Böëna Wilderness Lodges and purchased Tortuga Lodge, they reached out to him because they wanted to make sure that the naturalist guides and staff members were local people from Tortuguero in order to maintain the authenticity of the experience. Meanwhile updating the accommodations to a Virtuoso-caliber level. A job well done!

 

So, I got in touch with Juan and asked him when his favorite time in Tortuguero National Park is, and what different months of the year bring to the destination? This is what he had to say:

“Look, I'm going to be very honest. For me, the most beautiful time to enjoy Tortuguero, a very diverse area… an area where there is a great variety of flora and fauna, the most diverse area in the country, right, but one of my favorites is from mid-September to mid-October. This is when there is less precipitation in the rainy season, it is also the time of the green turtle season. A time when you can see hatching of baby turtles, and possibly the mother’s laying eggs as well. Since this time is still the rainy season when the forest blooms the most, it’s very active time of year for bird migration and to see other species.

However, at Tortuga Lodge any time of the year you have possibilities of seeing animals. For example, from December to April there are possibilities of seeing three species of monkeys and two species of sloths. At the end of March through April is a nice time to see dolphins or even manatees. 50% of the birds in Costa Rica can be seen at Tortuguero National Park throughout the year. Other species include iguanas, many frogs, anteaters, sometimes jaguars and panthers. Great place year round”

- Juan Molina Guadamuz, Expert Naturalist Guide at Tortuga Lodge

Kayaking the canals of Tortuguero National Park in June 2022.


Pacuare Lodge — Turrialba; Central Caribbean


I took a moment to speak with Natalia Fernandez from Turrialba. Natalia is the Director of Sales and her father is Roberto Fernandez, the owner of Pacuare Lodge. Therefore, she has essentially been visiting the lodge every year for her entire life. Since Pacuare is located in the central region of Costa Rica, but more towards the Caribbean, I was curious if the rainy season weather pattern was more similar to the Caribbean or Pacific conditions? This is what she had to say:

“We are influenced by the Caribbean weather, so September and October are great months to travel to Pacuare. It is very likely visitors will have sunny days, the color of the river is amazing, so it’s a great time! And the best prices!”

- Natalia Fernandez, Director of Sales for Böëna Wilderness Lodges

What Natalia means by “the color of the river” is that when there is a lot of rainfall in the nearby mountains, the river appears murky because of all the rain runoff going through the river, making its way to empty out to the Caribbean. Since rain holds off for a bit in September and October, the rafting conditions are favorable.

*Please keep in mind, that in order to whitewater raft into Pacuare Lodge, children must be age 9 or up. To whitewater raft out of Pacuare Lodge, children have to be 12 +



Rafting Conditions at Pacuare Lodge by Month:

  • December – January: Best conditions for rafting; sunny, emerald green water. River is still running quickly from Green Season rains, still lots of wildlife

  • February – April: Sunny conditions, emerald green water, river is running more slowly. Best time for beginners

  • May: Due to shoulder season, this month can be a lot of fun. Expect sunny mornings and rainy evenings, the river will begin to run faster and get murkier later in the month.

  • June – August: This is the time period that receives the most rainfall at Pacuare Lodge. During these months, you risk not being able to paddle out of Pacuare Lodge. If the river is flowing too fast and the water is too high, they will cancel the rafting (typically only happens about 5 times per year). However, that doesn’t mean you’re stuck, you just have to take a land transfer out rather than rafting.

  • September – October: Hidden secret of Costa Rica! You get low season rates, but the Caribbean receives a brief break from rain during this time. Expect great river flow, emerald green water, and sunshine while the Pacific side of CR receives the most rainfall.

  • November: Same with May, shoulder season conditions. Later in November you’re more likely to get less rain and slower river flow.

Quick video I made of the activities included with your stay at Pacuare Lodge.


Lapa Rios — Osa Peninsula; southwest Pacific

Visiting Lapa Rios is like taking a leap into “the Jungle Book” where you will feel like Mowgli living amongst beautiful wild animals. At the moment you arrive at the Puerto Jimenez airport, it’s possible to see macaws feeding on an almond tree over the airport office of Lapa Rios. From there, a driver takes you through the Osa wilderness until arriving at Lapa Rios in Matapalo.

Something that is so astounding about Lapa Rios is that it located near primary forests, meaning that it has been untouched for centuries, so it is possible to see trees that are over 500 years old! It is also located on Golfo Dolce, one of the only Tropical Fjord’s in the America’s. Combine these two factors and you get a literal wildlife viewing wonderland. So, it is important to understand that you will be able to see plenty of wildlife year-round at Lapa Rios, but when is the best time of year to see certain animals and get the best weather conditions? We spoke to Osa-native Frank Barquero, who is also a certified volunteer Park Ranger, to learn more about when the best time to visit is.

“As a naturalist guide and a native of the Osa Peninsula, I can affirm that there are two times of the year that are my favorites. The first is the months of May to August. It is a time of transition, from the dry season to the rainy season. The first rains can occur between April and May, then it continues to rain intermittently. Even for the last decade August has been a month with relatively little rain. May is usually the last month we get to see North American migratory birds. It is incredible to see the males wearing their best clothes, with their colorful plumage, ready for the mating that will take place in the north of our continent. The forests turn a deeper and more intense green color due to the effect of the rains, and new plants and trees are born and grow at the beginning of the rainy season. Also, at the end of July and during August is when we can see humpback whales in the Golfo Dulce. This is not to mention the dolphins that usually inhabit this beautiful fjord. The months of September, October and part of November are almost always very rainy. It is very difficult to spot wildlife because it rains too much.

And the second season, my favorite, usually starts at the end of November and beginning of December. Since September and October we have, once again, the presence of migratory birds from North America. To this we add that the heavy rains begin to diminish and the days begin to become warmer and sunnier. Even January and February can be added to this second favorite season. Nature tourism is increasing admirably, and it is an incredible time for bird watching and wildlife in general.”

- Frank Chaves Barquero, Expert Local Naturalist Guide at Lapa Rios

One of the many wonderful photos that Frank shares with our team while he is leading tours at Lapa Rios! A smiling 3-toed sloth taking a nap in a tree.

The Osa Peninsula also provides critical nesting habitat for four species of sea turtles - olive ridleys, green turtles, hawskbills and leatherbacks. Visiting during nesting season gives guests a good chance to witness a hatching or participate in sea turtle research and protection with Osa Conservation, a partner of Lapa Rios. 

  • Olive Ridleys - Nest from June-December

  • Green Turtles - Nest from July-October

  • Hawksbills - Nest from July-October

  • Leatherbacks - Nest from March-September 


Aguas Claras — Puerto Viejo, southwestern Caribbean


Puerto Viejo is an interesting Caribbean town for many reasons. In a sense, it operates by its own rules in terms of weather. In September and October while almost every Caribbean Island and beach town are threatened by hurricanes (and now seaweed), Puerto Viejo enjoys its most sunny and calm time of year.

Therefore, I took a moment to speak with Marvin Solorzano, a naturalist guide at Aguas Claras, about his favorite time of year in Puerto Viejo and what makes snorkeling during this time so special:

“For me, I think September or October because I love to enjoy snorkeling buddy. For that reason, I prefer those months. During this time, the sea is so flat which makes it perfect for snorkeling or scuba diving. It is like Summer here, and that is what makes it so special. Cahuita National Park is the best place to snorkel because it is the most protected and has the most reefs. You can also try behind Aguas Claras, Punta Uva beach maybe, but Cahuita National Park is definitely the best.”

- Marvin Solorzano, Expert Local Guide at Hotel Aguas Claras

Last June’s FAM Trip to the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. This is after snorkeling at Cahuita National Park with Marvin, our guide at Aguas Claras. Exploring Puerto Viejo the Cayuga way!


We do recommend people to visit Monteverde during Green Season because during these months is when you can see the real Monteverde, the most authentic, misty and rainy days of the year. During this time the town is less crowded, which allows visitors to see more wildlife on the reserves. The overall views are much nicer as everything is greener.
— Allan Gamboa, Operations Manager at Senda

Overlooking the Nicoya Peninsula from Monteverde.

If you do happen to visit Senda Monteverde during the Dry Season, make sure you go E-Biking to Cerro Pinoccho, it is also an option to hike or horseback ride here. It is the best sunset in Monteverde! See so in the video below. Also, a pro-tip is to bring a rain jacket and sweater any time you visit Monteverde; it can get quite cold at night!


Arenas del Mar —
Manuel Antonio, Central Pacific Coast

If you’re looking for a true “Costa Rica 101” experience where you get a little bit of everything that the green country has to offer, then Arenas del Mar is the answer. There are so many activities to choose from while staying at ADM in Manuel Antonio, it can be difficult to decide which ones. Therefore, I spoke with Elaine Solano, the Experience and Sustainability Manager at Arenas del Mar to see if there are certain activities that are better to do in the Green Season.

Are there any experiences that you can do at Arenas del Mar during the Green Season that you are unable to do in the Dry Season?

There are 2 key tours that you must do during a specific time (covering green season):

  • Naranjo river rafting class III. Open from May to November

  • Whale watching tour: Open from July to October

What is the best time of year to visit Manuel Antonio National Park?

  • All seasons are good, however we suggest avoiding going during festive dates that are usually very crowded, such as Easter and Christmas.

  • During these dates we recommend going during the afternoon, and during green season dates, is better to visit it in the morning.

When is the best time of year to surf at Arenas del Mar? 

  • From May to November more less

No matter what time of year you visit Arenas del Mar or any of the Costa Rica properties in our portfolio, expected to. be greeted with a welcome smile! The staff members are truly what make the difference.


There simply is no bad time to visit Kurá, but if you’re looking for a honeymoon or romantic getaway with your loved ones, I would suggest to go during the Dry Season to guarantee an amazing sunset from the deck of your room or from the main lobby.

However, if you’re more adventurous, then Green Season is a great time to visit Kura because of the experiences that you can do. During the months from June – August is the best time to visit Nauyaca Waterfall when the falls are moving with sheer force from all of the rain. Meanwhile, this is the time when humpback whales migrate through Marino Ballena National Park. Sometimes you can see the whales from Kurá with binoculars, but my insider tip is to book a boat ride for the day to Caño Island. In August, I’ve seen humpbacks with their babies!


PASHA — Santa Teresa, Nicoya Peninsula, Pacific Coast

Pasha, the only standalone private-buyout villa in our portfolio, has many benefits of visiting during the Green Season. Clark and I were lucky enough to be some of the first guests to stay there towards the end of January 2022 during Dry Season. We quickly realized how fortunate we were to be visiting during that time of year. Sunshine all day, great waves to surf, direct views of the ocean from Pasha’s porch, unreal sunsets, and best of all it was not too dry yet.

View of the pool and ocean from Pasha

All that being said, it can be tough to inspire yourself to leave paradise at Pasha and explore the surrounding area. This 10-bedroom villa is located in Playa Hermosa, which is about 5 miles north of Santa Teresa town. Being away from the town is a total advantage because there isn’t as much noise or traffic. On the beach you will see surfers with their dogs, some photographers, or families hanging out. With all of this at your fingertips, it is hard to imagine why someone would want to leave, but the Nicoya Peninsula is teeming with wildlife to explore. I wanted to see what was outside of Pasha and Santa Teresa, so I went on a tour with Douglas Morales, Owner of Manakin Tours who helps manage excursions and activities for our guests at Pasha. Here is what he taught me:

“The Nicoya Peninsula is unique because we are in a transitional forest. Meaning we are located right in between the driest forest in Costa Rica which is the Guanacaste province, and the wettest area in the rain forest around Manuel Antonio region. 60% of the forest here is deciduous, which means they will usually lose their leaves when the rain stops in December. The leaves fall and cover all the ground to avoid evaporation and preserve more water underground near the roots. This is also when they will start blooming temporarily because birds migrate from North America to escape winter time and help pollinate the area. The other 40% of the trees are green and never lose their foliage. In May, when Green Season arrives, the deciduous trees grow their leaves again and you can see more wildlife.

 This region is also awarded as one of our planet’s Blue Zones. Some of the reasons being that our diet is very helpful and our low-stress farming lifestyle. The good relationships among families and friends within the community help to increase the age of people. Exercise, good diet, and good relationships are things that we take pride of and the region that we live in allows for us to live this lifestyle. For that reason we need to protect this region and ecotourism is a big help.”

— Douglas Morales, Owner of Manakin Tours

If there is no availability for Pasha during festive or you aren’t interested in paying high season rates, you should definitely consider staying at Pasha from May – September during Green Season. During this time, the town of Santa Teresa is not as busy with tourism, meaning the road is far less dusty. Expect to wear a bandana and sunglasses in March or April while going through town.

Also, our rates are much better in Green Season and wildlife is teeming! This is the best time to visit Montezuma waterfalls or any of the nearby National Parks. Another perk is the sea life – on a boat tour in one day you can see Humpback whales, schools of dolphins, sea turtles, bioluminescent waters, birds, and more! Check out this video of dolphins swimming in front of our boat during the month of September, this is right off the coast of Montezuma, about a 45-minute drive from Pasha.


Come to Costa Rica, but make sure to use this as your guide for the best time to visit each destination.

Pura Vida!!

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Where Can I Spend the Holidays in Latin America?

Festive availability and travel expectations, country by country.

Where Can I Spend the Holidays in Latin America?

It’s a mixed bag, but for those fed up with domestic options and eager to travel internationally, the countries to the south may make more sense in the short term vs. flying transatlantic and navigating the rapidly changing rules in Europe. Border openings and regulations have been consistent and without fail, the returning traveler feedback that we’ve seen has been excellent. Properties are fully staffed, guides and hospitality teams are ecstatic to have guests again and rates have not skyrocketed with most partners retaining 2019/2020 pricing. Here’s an update on the countries we work with the and the availability at our partners for near-term and festive travel.


COSTA RICA

Since fully reopening to international visitors Costa Rica has stayed consistently open to all without quarantine or testing requirements. Nearly 50% of the population has received one dose of the vaccine and efforts to vaccinate continue to ramp up. But perhaps most importantly, the restorative powers of the pura vida lifestyle remain as potent as ever - just ask Henley Valesquez of Passported who has spent frequent time in the country with her family since it reopened. Even if you’ve overlooked Costa Rica before, the sunshine, saltwater and birdsong is the perfect tonic to restore your body and soul.

Predictably, holiday space is quite limited. Kurà, which is adults only, has a handful of suites available December 26-January 2 and ideal for anyone who wishes to get away for and from the holidays. Lapa Rios on the Osa likewise has a few Deluxe Bungalows available and offers an excellent rainforest safari option for anyone 6 and older. And one or two lucky families can still combine the beach and rainforests of Arenas Del Mar with the cloud forests of Monteverde. ADM has 3 suites left  (2 adults, 2 children) until December 26. Then it’s an easy and scenic drive up the mountains to Senda Monteverde where suite categories are conveniently available from the 26th onwards.  Thanksgiving is a different story and November is a great time to be in Costa Rica.

COLOMBIA

This is a great option still available for those looking for latin culture, scenery and fun over the holidays.  Hacienda Bambusa in the coffee region has rooms available from December 23rd into January.  This is perfectly combined with some time at Casa Yahri in Barichara which has a 3 night full buyout option from December 21st to the 24th, as well as single rooms available through December 30th and then again from January 2nd onwards.  Clark took his family to Colombia this year over spring break and spent a fantastic week in Barichara at Casa Yahri, a full youtube playlist of their adventures can be seen here.  Our friend Chad Clark also was just in Colombia with his family, staying at Hacienda Bambusa, and had this to say:  “Certified!”

PERU

Peru opened its doors to international visitors starting back in May of 2021, but amazingly, there is still space available over the holiday season with our partner hotels in the country:  All Inkaterra Hotels, Cirqa and Titilaka have space available.  Prior to the pandemic, Peru was close to reaching an “over tourism” situation with availability, even in off peak months, hard to come by.  With loads of outdoor adventure options and the ability to visit places like Machu Picchu sans major crowds, this would be a fantastic opportunity for a last minute holiday trip in 2021.  Please contact us if you are interested in some ideas and we can put you in touch with the right providers. We also may be offering a limited FAM trip to Peru in November, check in with us on details if interested. 

PANAMA

Panama was a little slower to reopen than its neighboring countries and entry testing requirements have likely kept some would-be visitors at bay, but for travelers hungry for an incredible nature and culture experience in the tropics, Panama is a great holiday option without the crowds. Isla Palenque still has a handful of beachfront casitas available over key holiday dates and clients can arrive or depart the island in style with ELEVAIR seaplanes for an exceptional flying experience that enables further exploration of Panama’s islands and coast.

We’re feeling very optimistic about Panama and are hosting a small group FAM trip in late September. A few incredible days in Panama City, three nights at Isla Palenque and a seaplane charter back to PTY at the end, stopping at Isla Coiba en route. Prior to joining the group, Kirsten will be traveling in Panama with her father and brother to celebrate a milestone birthday for her dad.

ECUADOR

Having been safe, stable, open and very friendly towards international visitors since July 2020, Ecuador is where the bulk of travelers have been going in South America.  For that reason, demand is super high and availability is low.  At the time of writing, we have no 2021 Holiday space to offer at Galapagos Safari Camp, Casa Gangotena, Mashpi Lodge or Hacienda Zuleta.  Since people have been traveling there a lot and raving about it to friends back home, we can tell you that holiday space for 2022 at all properties is 65-75% booked up already!  If people want to get to Ecuador and the Galapagos this year, look at the fall, Thanksgiving would be an excellent option.  And if you have clients that want to do prime holidays in the Galapagos, tell them that NOW is the time to be planning that trip for 2022, even 2023, as we expect demand for Ecuador to only grow due to their excellent track record with handling tourism during the pandemic, and a new very pro-tourism government.

ARGENTINA

This is a major wildcard, and the jury is split on whether the country will open at all in 2021.  Argentina is still closed to international visitors, however, the Minister of Tourism made an announcement that they would “most likely” reopen in October or November to facilitate the Antarctic cruise season.  This leaves very little time for last minute bookings, but if it happens, space is available at Awasi Iguazu over the holidays and we may have space open at Estancia Cristina also.  With the Patagonia season running until April, an opening of borders in October or November would still allow eager travelers to plan far enough in advance to catch the 2021-22 Patagonia season. Also consider sending clients to Awasi Iguazu anytime, as it is a year round destination and pairs fantastically with a few days in Buenos Aires.

CHILE

Despite having one of the very best vaccine rollout programs of any nation on earth (around 70% of Chilean citizens have been vaccinated thus far) the nation remains closed to international visitors.  We are hopeful, due to their vaccination levels, that good news could be coming any day, announcing Chile is opening to visitors.  And we have a lot of anxious guests too, as Awasi Patagonia is fully booked for the 2021 holiday season, and we have just a small number of options in Awasi Atacama during the festive dates.  Due to this, we are already seeing our festive dates for 2022 in high demand.  This is a region, where, when it opens, the overwhelming demand and seasonality will be met with little supply left. So worth speaking to your clients about making advanced reservations for the Patagonia season in 2022 and 2023, which runs from October through April.  However, keep in mind that the Atacama desert is an amazing place to visit year round, and space is usually available from May to September at Awasi Atacama with good promotions as well. 


BRAZIL

Like Ecuador, Brazil has been open to international visitors since July of 2020.  Understandably, many are scared of the destination due to overwhelming news of the pandemic situation in the country (which I might say has mirrored the situation in the USA to a large extent(.  But we have seen a few agents go anyway and they had a fantastic time.  Our one property in Brazil, Comuna do Ibitipoca, still does have a private villa available over the festive season - and I couldn’t think of a safer, more isolated and magical place to spend the time - anytime actually.

NICARAGUA

Nicaragua never closed its borders to international travelers. The country is open and entry requirements are found HERE. Yet international flights into Managua remain very limited and vaccination rates are the lowest in Latin America. Jicaro Island Lodge plans to remain closed at least until the presidential election concludes in early November. The southern coast of the country though is a different story; beach resorts near San Juan Del Sur are an option for travelers who can fly into Liberia, Costa Rica and cross the border by land. For all travel arrangements in Nicaragua, we recommend using a knowledgeable, in-country DMC.

If you want to be in the know when unexpected space becomes available due to cancellations, when borders open, etc - please do follow us on social media if you do not already: Instagram or Facebook

For all things South America, please reach out to Clark: clark@clarkkotula.com. Kirsten handles Central America - kirsten@clarkkotula.com

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Luxury Travel Insider: All of Our Partner's Podcast Interviews in One Place

During 2020, travel advisor Sarah Groen created the Luxury Travel Insider podcast to share the personal stories behind some of the world’s greatest hospitality experiences and inspire listeners to travel more broadly. We’re thrilled to have many of our partners featured as guests on this great podcast series, including Awasi, Hacienda Zuleta, Lapa Rios Lodge, Inkaterra, Jicaro Island Lodge, The Cayuga Collection and Galapagos Safari Camp.

Luxury Travel Insider: All of Our Partner's Podcast Interviews in One Place

It’s been an honor to have many of our visionary hospitality partners in Latin America featured on the Luxury Travel Insider podcast, produced by Virtuoso Travel Advisor Sarah Groen of Bell and Bly Travel. The stories they share with Sarah are personal - behind the scenes accounts of places or moments that define the owners’ individual visions of luxury and explain their drive to create experiences that share that vision with guests.

Enjoy the interviews with our partners but clicking on the photo below to access each episode, or search “Luxury Travel Insider” on whatever platform you use to listen to podcasts. Then subscribe and follow for all of Sarah’s interviews with hospitality & travel luminaries across the globe.

Thanks Sarah!

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Updates from Hotel Aguas Claras

Introducing Bungalow KuaKua, a new menu at Papaya Restaurant and local treasures at Libélula Giftshop

Updates from Hotel Aguas Claras

The prettiest hotel on Costa Rica’s Caribbean Coast just keeps getting better. Hotel Aguas Claras recently unveiled a new studio bungalow (KuaKua), a restaurant menu restyled to bring more creative Caribbean flair and Libélula Giftshop, where guests can browse artisanal Costa Rican brands plus handcrafted art and jewelry from local makers.

KuaKua Bungalow

Named after “Butterfly” in Bri-Bri (the indigenous language in this part of Costa Rica ) Bungalow KuaKua is a hip, studio-style bungalow with approximately 50 sq.m (540 sq.ft) of private living space with a large, indoor studio space (with AC), two covered verandahs, an outdoor shower, kitchenette and private tropical gardens. Recommended for couples, it can also accommodate families who prefer to all share one room over the Two-Bedroom Bungalow options. (Hotel Aguas Claras welcomes children over 8 years old.)

Tucked back privately among lush gardens, a unique feature of Bungalow KuaKua is the outdoor shower, surrounded by living walls of orchids and bromeliads. The plantings are new and should reach their lush fullness by next season.

Bungalow KuaKua was designed by Hotel Aguas Claras co-owner Elena Rohrmoser and has a distinctively young & bohemian vibe, with white walls and pops of color, similar in palette to the Pavlova Suites. We like it for honeymooners or even single travelers, especially digital nomads who need more work space.

KuaKua Green season rates from $390/night + tax. Download High Resolution photos HERE

New Menu at Papaya Restaurant

Working with Chef Andres Morataya (who has developed the menus at Jicaro Island Lodge, Isla Palenque and more) the culinary team at Hotel Aguas Claras is bringing Caribbean flavors to the forefront of the recently redesigned menu. Expect playful presentations and bold flavors that honor the rich cultural heritage of this slice of Costa Rica, drawing influence from indigenous, West African, Caribbean and Chinese culinary traditions.

Check out the NEW MENU HERE. For lunch, happy hour & small bites, visit the DA LIME BEACH CLUB, part of Hotel Aguas Claras.

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Libélula Giftshop

Just down from the main lobby, through the French Doors next to the little neon sign in the shape of a dragonfly is Libélula Giftshop. Here guests will find a curated collection of locally made soaps, candles, jewelry, body products and resort wear as well as vintage fashion from owner Elena’s extensive collection. Artwork from local makers is featured also featured, including watercolor postcards portraying scenes from Hotel Aguas Claras and Puerto Viejo. It’s the perfect place to discover a unique memento of your stay while also supporting the local creative community that thrives in Puerto Viejo.

Questions about Hotel Aguas Claras? Contact Kirsten (kirsten@clarkkotula.com) or book through your preferred sales channel. You can contact the hotel directly at travel@hotelaguasclaras.com

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Costa Rica Trip Report

What makes Costa Rica an ideal destination for your first Covid-era international trip? Kirsten shares some thoughts & notes from her recent travels in February.

Costa Rica Trip Report

Friends, I have a confession to make. I’ve been a traveler for nearly two decades now, but for the first ten or so years that I spent exploring countries and cultures around the globe, I didn’t give Costa Rica much thought. It seemed too tame, too easy, everyone was doing it. Not a priority. I’d get there eventually. Myanmar, Northern Brazil, Venezuela, Japan, Southern Africa - these were the more exotic, harder to access places that called to me first and filled my passports with their stamps and visas. Costa Rica could wait.

Clearly I have been converted by the gospel of Pura Vida and have been a devoted fan of Costa Rica ever since my first visit to the country (and more specifically the Osa Peninsula which is my happy place.) But after returning last month to dip a toe back into the waters of international travel, it dawned on me that Costa Rica’s reputation as a perfect “starter destination” and gateway country for international travel to more ambitious and farther flung locations make it THE ideal candidate for NOW as travelers cautiously consider a return to international explorations beyond a weekend at a gated resort in Cabo.

Happiness is a horseback ride at sunset in Monteverde

Happiness is a horseback ride at sunset in Monteverde

Costa Rica is safe, so very clean, a short nonstop flight from many airports throughout North America and extremely welcoming. Public health has always been prioritized (you can drink straight from the faucet almost anywhere in the country) and embracing a lifestyle that enables holistic wellbeing is literally the official national mantra. And, in the same understated, humble way that little Costa Rica has led the way in low-impact, high-return, sustainable nature-based tourism and doing things differently (like abolishing the army and investing instead in education) they’ve reopened with a unique but effective approach; gradually eliminating the friction points like PCR testing and mandatory quarantines on arrival* to jumpstart the country’s tourism industry while still maintaining common sense & science-based protocols (mask wearing indoors, social distancing) to reduce the risk of transmission. The data speaks for itself; opening up Costa Rica to travelers has shown so far to be safe and a great benefit both for locals and for visitors.

Ten days in the country was just the shot of sanity and sunshine I needed to feel slightly like myself again and reconnect to my purpose & passions. Costa Rica, with easy access and all the nature is the antidote to pandemic-induced depression - I can’t recommend it enough, especially if you’ve overlooked the country in the past.

Following are the details of my own trip in February 2021 and recommendations for you and your travelers, as someone who has been to the country eight times. Information is accurate at the time of writing but like everything these days, could very well change. Make sure to check the Costa Rican Tourism Board website as well as those of your own country of origin for the latest information prior to travel.

Requirements for Travel:

I’ve read about the numerous hoops that passionate travelers have jumped through to reach various destinations over the past few months. A complex evolving series of schedule changes, testing requirements, paperwork and certificates - likely well worth the hassle to access certain places right now.  But that amount of effort and uncertainty may not appeal to everyone.

Traveling to Costa Rica was easy-breezy. Travelers must purchase insurance that meets three requirements: 1.) the policy must be effective for the entire time in-country 2.) It must offer at least $50,000 in coverage for Covid-19 related medical expenses and 3.) it must cover at a minimum $2,000 in extended lodging expenses due to Covid-19 (ie. cost to quarantine if you contract the virus).

#3 is what I get the most questions about as many major international providers (like TravelEx for example) do not expressly meet this condition. So, in addition to whatever larger policy your clients purchase, add on the Sagicor plan available HERE - coverage rates vary and for me at 37 yoa it was about $11/day. Is it a racket? Maybe, but it is easy to purchase and a small price to pay for peace of mind. Or, talk to your DMC about obtaining a letter of exemption from this requirement due to larger comprehensiveness of the coverage. We’ve recently learned this is possible too.

Otherwise travelers must fill out an electronic Health Pass which is available 48 hours prior to their international flight departure. Once completed you’ll receive a QR code via email which must be shown to the airlines prior to boarding your international flight and again at Passport Control upon arrival into the country. While I had printed copies of both my travel insurance and QR code, neither of these were necessary as the electronic version of the QR code was accepted and contained all needed info.

No testing is required to enter Costa Rica but is still encouraged out of respect for the safety and health of the local people. I opted for the rapid antigen test a couple of days prior to flying.

My mid-week flight from LAX to SJO on Alaska was only 25% full but I returned on a Sunday via the same route on a plane that was closer to 80%. If you have the flexibility to travel mid week, you might have an emptier flight.

Health & Safety Protocols In-Country

Mask wearing, temperature scanners and social distancing were all being enforced in SJO and at the adjacent domestic terminal and people were complying without issue. Hand sanitizer and hand washing stations are everywhere. Guides, drivers and staff were all masked, without exception. Generally the check-in experience at each hotel began with hand washing & a temperature check by masked staff though guests were not required to wear masks, unless passing through an enclosed, indoor space.* I don’t know how this is being enforced beyond our properties but as the vast majority of the lodges & hotels that we work with in Costa Rica are open-air with restaurants and spas existing in large, outdoor covered spaces with ample ventilation, mask wearing by guests wasn’t a requirement.

*For the first and last nights of my trip I stayed at the Courtyard Marriott in Alajuela, mostly for the free shuttle and proximity to the airport. All passengers and the driver were masked for the transfer but this was the only hotel I experienced where temperatures were not taken on arrival, luggage was not wiped down and hand washing wasn’t enforced (though sanitizer was available).  Staff and guests were all masked at the hotel, which felt good enough for me personally, but something to be aware of for clients who are very nervous about traveling right now. A boutique San Jose property like Finca Rosa Blanca, Casa 41 or Grano de Oro may be a better choice even if the transit time is a bit further.

A nearly empty & well spaced out domestic terminal in San Jose at 7:30 am on Friday, February 28

A nearly empty & well spaced out domestic terminal in San Jose at 7:30 am on Friday, February 28

Travel Through Costa Rica

On my second day it was back to the airport for an early flight to Puerto Jimenez and 4-day stay at Lapa Rios Lodge on the Osa Peninsula. The domestic terminal was super dialed with hand washing, disinfecting foot mats, taking temperatures on entry and blocking seats to enforce social distancing, though it was also virtually empty for my early AM flight.  

Sansa, Green and Skyway airlines are again offering multiple nonstop daily options between San Jose and the southern Pacific airstrips in Golfito and Puerto Jimenez (as well as destinations throughout the country) though for groups of 4 or more chartering a small plane to fit your own schedule may make more sense and avoids the need to connect through San Jose when traveling point to point.

Also, do not be afraid of renting a car in Costa Rica. The country is a joy to drive through - river crossings or waiting for horses to pass on a road being part of the fun! A high clearance 4WD vehicle will get you just about anywhere and gives you flexibility to poke around on your own, searching out remote surf breaks and roadside sodas like a local. I get that some people prefer to be driven as driving stresses them out, but if your clients are interested, don’t dissuade them. Even the notoriously bad roads of the Nicoya Peninsula can be fun if approached with the right attitude. Rental car companies will privately deliver and pick up vehicles just about anywhere for a nominal fee.

At the hotels themselves, there was very much a sense of normalcy, of business as usual just with less guests than a typical February and the additional protocols mentioned above. Wellness centers, pools, bars and restaurants are all open with generous table spacing, though in some cases the hours may be reduced (like at Arenas Del Mar where breakfast and dinner are only being served at El Mirador though lunch service is offered at both El Mirador and Playitas Beach). Group yoga & fitness classes are on hold for the time being but mats and hand weights can be brought to your room to exercise in private. Most excursions are available, though there is an effort being made to arrange private tours exclusively whenever possible and school visits are not available at the moment. Daily visitor numbers at national parks are also reduced to prevent over crowding so make sure to arrange these excursions + permits in advance through the hotel or DMC. By and large the experience you can have as a traveler in Costa Rica is currently as good if not better than it was prior to the pandemic. The hotels are currently operating at around 30-55% average occupancy each month though Fridays & Saturdays do tend to be a bit busier with a robust local market in San Jose looking to escape the city for the weekend.

The Case for the South

Every country has its greatest hits, the same places that are on the list of each and every visitor. How often are these well known players the highlight of the trip vs. the surprise delight of somewhere unexpected?

In Costa Rica the Papagayo + Arenal Combo is everybody’s go-to, by and large utilizing the same handful of franchised beach resorts that could be located anywhere in the tropics. This is not to disparage what they offer (though I’m sure my tone implies otherwise), but to encourage you to nudge your clients south and dive into the essence of the country. To Uvita, to the Osa, to Monteverde instead of or in addition to Arenal, to the Caribbean Coast. Places that retain a unique sense of place and authentic Costa Rican-ness that hasn’t been over-branded and over-produced and expatted out of them. Then go to Papagayo. But just don’t only send your travelers there - it’s a purpose built “multi use luxury development complex” and is barely a taste of the variety of experiences that Costa Rica enables.

I could write a novel about each lodge that we work with but if I can make a case for just two places that I revisited on this trip, it has to be Kurà in Uvita and Lapa Rios Lodge on the Osa Peninsula.

It is great to be down here, and it was so wonderful to experience Kura and Lapa Rios last week. Of course, everyone expects the beautiful views at the properties and all of the wildlife at Lapa Rios, but beyond that we felt that the staff at both properties were exceptional. They consistently went above and beyond and truly made us feel at home.At Lapa Rios we stayed in villa 15 – I thought the redesign was beautifully done! Sitting out on the terrace taking in the views with the wildlife all around was amazing. Definitely a highlight of the trip!
— Matt LaPolice, Partner, MAYAMAYA Travel

Lapa Rios sits at the southern end of the Osa Peninsula, a destination renowned for incredible, record-setting biodiversity but less know for the amazing surf breaks that are easily accessed from the property and cater to all skill levels. When there, nature exists all around you - from the symphony of sounds as the rainforest residents greet each dawn to the monkeys scampering across your balcony to the toucans and scarlet macaws having breakfast overhead. The area around the lodge - protected forever as a conservation easement - vibrates with life in a way that is restorative and energizing. I felt so grateful to be back there, watching the sunrise from my deck each morning, while enjoying a cup of coffee and steamed milk, delivered to my door at 6:00 am.

Women leaders of Lapa Rios, from L to R, Paola Calderón (Head of Sustainability), Maureen Montenegro (General Manager), Cany Samudio (Administrative Coordinator) and Stephanie Rivas (Head of Guest Services)

Women leaders of Lapa Rios, from L to R, Paola Calderón (Head of Sustainability), Maureen Montenegro (General Manager), Cany Samudio (Administrative Coordinator) and Stephanie Rivas (Head of Guest Services)

But being immersed in the rainforest does not come at the expense of comfort. Lapa Rios underwent some major upgrades over the past year, and I was thrilled to finally experience these firsthand. Fiberoptic cable has enabled strong and fast WiFi in every room and all public spaces (which we put to the test when live streaming a Virtual Visit.) The new suites (Lapa Villas and Premier Villas) are enormous and gorgeous (View this VIDEO TOUR OF ROOMS HERE) and ideal for larger families. Evening Breeze beds provide a personal cooling system for those that desire it while sleeping. A lovely new bar and expansive deck maximize the views over the rainforest clad hills and turquoise blue Golfo Dulce. A largely female-led staff has been getting creative, setting up scenic and private dining options throughout the lodge, decks and around the pool. And the complete overhaul of the kitchen + culinary guidance of Greek Chef George Belesis has allowed for the creation of three separate a la carte multi-course menus which rotate daily and highlight local flavors in an elevated manner. With a variety of creative vegetarian options, I truly looked forward to every meal and only regret to not have sampled them all (some favorites are below) A walk-in, temperature-controlled wine room is being installed in the main lodge and an elevated ramp & hanging bridge is replacing the stairs that used to connect the main lodge & pool area to the first 10 rooms, making the trip between them both easier and more enjoyable. (Room 11 is being used for wellness treatments. Rooms 12-17 are the new villas and complimentary car service is included for guests in those rooms should they prefer not to walk.)

And the activities are endless. In addition to the 8 guided excursions included in the rates - covering everything from medicinal botany to early morning birding - one can paddle through the mangroves, kayak with bioluminescence, surf gorgeous point breaks, go dolphin and whale watching, rappel down waterfalls, discover the culture of the Osa with visits to local farms and families (some currently altered due to Covid) or take a day trip to Corcovado National Park on a boat that collects you right from the beach below Lapa Rios. I opted to do this on a Sunday and it was absolutely worth it to spot a mother and baby tapir at very close range. 100% powered by renewable resources and committed to conservation & regeneration, Lapa Rios is the premier choice for travelers venturing to the Osa Peninsula and time and again is the unexpected highlight from an entire trip to Costa Rica.

North of the Osa, above the beach town of Uvita, Kurà is as lovely as ever, perched on a hilltop with expansive views of the Pacific Ocean and Marino Ballena National Park with its uniquely shaped “Whale’s Tail sandbar. It is not a place to be seen with just 8 suites and catering to adult couples, but a place to hideaway, indulge in self care and reconnect with yourself and your partner amidst a beautiful location. Since my last visit there weren’t any major changes though a few small enhancements elevate the guest experience; an expanded premier wine list, personal wine fridges in each suite, a seamless, contactless communication system with the front desk to easily order every meal in your suite, portable bluetooth speakers in each suite that guests can take to the beach, tiny LED reading lights that clip to a book for when one partner wants to sleep and the other can’t put down a good read. Little details, but thoughtfully done.

Doing sunsets at Kurà - photo courtesy of Matthew LaPolice of Mayamaya Travel who stayed at Kurà & Lapa Rios in February.

Doing sunsets at Kurà - photo courtesy of Matthew LaPolice of Mayamaya Travel who stayed at Kurà & Lapa Rios in February.

Travel Advisors who have heard of Kurà but haven’t yet visited it themselves most frequently ask “what is there to do? it seems so isolated.” Honestly, you don’t come to Kurà to do. You come to be. To be cared for, to be surrounded by beauty, to just take a little sabbatical from life for a few days. You do sunsets at the pool because they really are an ethereal event in and of themselves. Maybe you do the beach one day, taking advantage of the private & complimentary Land Cruiser transfers to six different beaches that Kurà extends to guests any time they wish. Or pop down to Uvita to check out the weekly farmer’s market or dine at one of the up and coming restaurants (like the sushi & wine bar at the bottom of the hill.) But most guests come, take in the view, decide they aren’t leaving and opt to cancel whatever has been booked for them over the next few days to instead soak in the pleasure and peace of the place. And after a year of nonstop, stressful and challenging “doing” doesn’t that stillness sound nice?

Testing on Return Home

All air travelers to the USA must show proof of a negative Covid test taken within three days prior to their flight departure. To facilitate this requirement, Costa Rica has rapidly ramped up testing sites and labs throughout the country and in most cases hotels can arrange private in-room testing onsite for a fee.

PCR and rapid antigen tests are now available throughout the country. During my trip in mid-February, the rapid antigen tests were brand new, having just been approved (for travel purposes only) to begin on February 16. Generally these tests are less expensive than PCR tests, results are returned sooner and the experience is a little less painful as the swab does not need to go quite as deep into the nasal cavity.

Happy to mask up. Sad to head home. Planning my return.

Happy to mask up. Sad to head home. Planning my return.

Prior to returning home I had the team at Cayuga Travel schedule my appointment to be tested at Clinica Biblica in San Jose. (Yes, appointments are recommended) The cost was about $45, the testing occurred in the hospital’s parking garage and was administered in my vehicle and I had my results emailed to me in about four hours, in plenty of time for my flight the next day. Since that date, more labs have been approved to offer rapid antigen testing and the available sites across the country have only increased. THIS BLOG has the most complete and up-to-date list of testing that I’ve found in Costa Rica but even easier is just to ask your DMC what the options are. From my experience, I almost always need to spend the last night of my trip in San Jose due to west coast flight times, so getting a rapid antigen Covid test in the city was easy, affordable and efficient when scheduled in advance.

Have questions about travel to Costa Rica now? I’m happy to speak with your clients and give them an enthusiastic pep talk on why Costa Rica & pura vida really is a good idea right now. Drop me a note at kirsten@clarkkotula.com if I can help you with anything.

*As of late February, Costa Rica had welcomed more than 200,000 tourists. Just 250 of them had tested positive for Covid - an infection rate of just .13% which the Costa Rican Department of Health and Ministry of Tourism proudly share as proof that the decision to reopen the country and eliminate testing has not led to an increase in Covid cases from outside of its borders. This was the initial concern when the country eliminated the testing requirement for inbound travelers.

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WiFi in All Rooms Means Remote Work from Lapa Rios

Stay connected while you escape to the pristine natural environment of the Osa Peninsula at Lapa Rios Lodge.

Work Remote from Lapa Rios Lodge:
High Speed WiFi Now in All Suites

Stay connected during your time at Lapa Rios Lodge with high speed WiFi available throughout the entire property, including all public spaces and in each Villa & room.  Catch-up on your emails while you check the surf from your balcony, make everyone on zoom jealous with the ultimate tropical background and engage with the Osa Peninsula’s living classroom after virtual class time ends for the day.  While Lapa still encourages all guests to disconnect from their devices to fully immerse in the Osa Peninsula’s natural wonders, they understand that staying connected while being remote is especially essential right now. Want to stay longer? Their Pay 3/Stay 4 Nights Promotion is valid for stays until October 31, 2021.

Fresh coffee, feet up and binoculars close by. How you do morning emails at Lapa Rios Lodge.

Fresh coffee, feet up and binoculars close by. How you do morning emails at Lapa Rios Lodge.

Another recent upgrade at Lapa Rios was the arrival of Evening Breeze beds. An energy efficient and more environmentally friendly alternative to air conditioning, Evening Breeze beds create a personal cooling micro climate around the sleeper, pulling air from under the bed, filtering and cooling it and then dispersing it through the overhead canopy. The system, a popular amenity in many top remote safari lodges throughout Africa, is completely silent and uses up to 80% less energy than a traditional AC unit.

Lapa Rios is also working with a lab in Puerto Jimenez to provide Covid testing for guests who need to secure negative results prior to returning home to the United States.  Testing is currently available for $160 per person and is by appointment, M-Th. Please contact your DMC or Greivin Alvarez at greivin@laparios.com if you have any questions.

 

Stay connected, sleep soundly in comfort and let nature soothe your soul at Lapa Rios Lodge.

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The People Behind the Experience: Elizabeth Steinvorth of Hotel Aguas Claras

An interview with Elizabeth Steinvorth, part of the mother-daughter artist and design duo behind Hotel Aguas Claras in Puerto Viejo.

The People Behind the Experience:
Elizabeth Steinvorth of Hotel Aguas Claras


In Hotel Aguas Claras, co-owner Elizabeth Steinvorth, a lifelong artist, has created a hospitality experience that not only tells the story of a place – Puerto Viejo – but also her own personal story, one that brought her from the capital of San Jose, around the world and back to the vibrant jungles, beaches and local community of Costa Rica’s Southern Caribbean Coast. Through an intentionally curated blend of personal creations, up-cycled furniture, Victorian architecture and the handmade works of numerous artist friends, Steinvorth and her daughter, Elena Rohrmoser, have brought to life a singular vision guests can feel with all of their senses, with a style and vibe that is 100% original. Perhaps that is why, during this most challenging of years for much of the tourism space, Hotel Aguas Claras is thriving.

Elizabeth & daughter Elena, on one of their first shared trips to Puerto Viejo.

Elizabeth & daughter Elena, on one of their first shared trips to Puerto Viejo.

Thanks to Elizabeth for taking the time to chat with us last month and share more of her story as one of our “People Behind the Experience”.


It’s quite a leap to dive into building and running a hotel from scratch after a lifetime as an artist.  What drew you and Elena to this shared adventure in hospitality in Puerto Viejo?

Puerto Viejo has been my spiritual home since the first time I visited 33 years ago. I fell in love with the beaches, spectacular nature, wildlife, climate, and mainly the people and culture, which is more Afro Caribbean & indigenous (Bribri) than elsewhere in Costa Rica. I eventually purchased & renovated my own home here.

Mother & daughter

Mother & daughter

Elena and I are very close friends, apart from being mother/daughter. We love to travel the world together and have spent considerable time abroad. When I was younger, I studied to be a German and French translator in Germany for six years and Elena has been citizen of the world since she was 17 years old when she left to Berlin. She spent more than a decade in Europe and finally New York City where she studied Art and Design at Parsons.

Six years ago, after Elena returned to Costa Rica she and I initially had the idea to build a music studio together with our cousin Jorge who is a musician and artist in New York. So we started looking for the right location in Puerto Viejo and discovered that my neighbor was selling the old Aguas Claras Cottages right next to our house! After investigating the music studio idea, it turned out to be too complicated. But by then, we had also fallen in love with this property which I admired for decades. I decided to buy it and initially just restore the cottages to rent. And so it happened that we ended up with this huge project that kept us busy for the next four years!

With building a hotel we had little experience, but we knew we wanted to share this wonderful paradise with the rest of the world. And while Puerto Viejo is just starting to become an internationally known destination -  it is and will continue to remain very natural and easy going, a characteristic that we’ve reflected in the hotel.

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With shared but different backgrounds in art and design, can you tell us about the distinct styles of you and Elena and where you draw inspiration from? Where can guests see each of your personalities represented in the design and style of certain spaces?

I’ve been making things my whole life – expressing myself through music, dance, art. From a very young age I practiced ballet, played the piano, painted watercolors and created all kinds of handicrafts, and I love to create something every day since then. Currently (or before the pandemic), I really enjoy attending art workshops and traveling around the world – to Bali, Japan, New Zealand, South America to mention a few, which has opened my senses, taught me new techniques and expanded my creativity even more. I have also always been extremely conscious of keeping this world clean, and many years ago decided to include elements of up-cycling in all of my art projects, believing that and anything that can be made beautiful and useful again.

Guests can see my personality represented in the mirrors throughout the lobby of the hotel and bungalow rooms. I made these from egg cartons, old magazines, lids from glass jars, and may other materials which are usually thrown away, I think about 70% of furniture we have - including the shutters, balcony railings and floor boards - have been up-cycled and refinished by me, and much of it was saved from the old Aguas Claras Cottages. Also my flower watercolors can be seen in Casa Floralia, and several lamps and other ceramic objects here and there are my creation. I love color so all of my art work stands out against the white walls of the hotel, just enough to not compete with the bright colors of nature surrounding us.

Elena’s personality is very evident in the design and decor of our Papaya Restaurant and Pavlova Sweets, each one with a different theme or influenced by a different artistic acquaintance. She also curated many of the items we’ve showcased in our Libelula Gift Shop, clothing, jewelry and art objects that are all hand made. Our Beach Club “Da Lime” is a mixture of Elena’s and my taste, the perfect combination!

If you had to pick three “signature pieces” that represent Hotel Aguas Claras, what would they be?  

Close up of the chandelier that hangs above the bar in Papaya Restaurant

Close up of the chandelier that hangs above the bar in Papaya Restaurant

First, the Chandelier hanging over the bar at Papaya Restaurant was created by my friend Natasha Nokin, a French artist living in Puerto Viejo 30 years ago, and me.  It’s a combination of 5 lamps, each created from old lamps that belonged to my family, plus chandelier crystals, shell beads and bamboo pieces as well as other local materials.  Since up-cycling is always my goal, exhibiting this chandelier is the perfect example of how old pieces and any kind of natural materials and objects can be put together with an excellent visual effect.  

Second - the Iron columns at the lobby entrance and fountain.   These unique pieces belonged to my good artist friend Antonio Doninelli, who has been a frequent collaborator on the hotel and surrounding gardens. They came from England and date from the 19th Century, when Costa Rica started exporting coffee for the first time.  At that time, Costa Rica’s president used the ships exporting coffee to bring back many ornaments from Europe, especially for the creation of our National Theatre, which emulated popular architectural styles in Europe.  These columns stood for many years in the gardens and residences of the old Presidential Home until we acquired them, incorporating a piece of Costa Rica’s global history into our gardens.

Fountain made with coral blocks discovered during the construction of Hotel Aguas Claras

Fountain made with coral blocks discovered during the construction of Hotel Aguas Claras

Third - the coral ornamentation throughout the gardens of Aguas Claras:. The property of Aguas Claras used to be covered by water; today we sit atop a platform of coral some 3 meters under the ground.  When we started to excavate for the hotel’s foundations, we found thousands of pieces of coral! We wanted to use it somehow and pay homage to the property’s natural history and found in town a Spanish stonecutter. Using our designs he created a series of benches, pedestals and floors found throughout the gardens of the hotel.  They are a work of art for sure and I was inspired by the use of coral in Viscaya Castle in Miami and architecture in La Habana, Cuba. 


Tell me more about Familia Paraíso – who have you hosted and who would you like to host in the future as an artist-in-residence?


Familia Paraíso is the creative multimedia platform for Hotel Aguas Claras. It serves as an archival library for all the art forms created at the Hotel by artists in many creative disciplines that come to visit us locally and from faraway lands. It is also a space to build and promote the creative community we have here in Puerto Viejo, showcase all the beautiful things happening at the Hotel and inform of future Artist-in-Residencies, Events and Environmental Community Projects.

We have hosted and collaborated with musicians like Andrew Van Wyngarden from MGMT, California band Allah-Las, Soko (French actress/musician/model), NYC Designers Dusen Dusen and Susan Alexandra, Costa Rican Artist Federico Herrero who has come to host a creative workshop with the community kids, Director and Photographer Stuart Winecoff, among many others! The idea is to continue inviting inspiring individuals from creative and environmental fields and we welcome proposals from different artists around the world which match our vision and values.

Our intention is to serve as a cultural bridge between our local diversity and the guests that visit us through the key element of collaboration and exchange.


Traveling with more intention and consideration of our impact and footprint is a theme for post-Covid travel. What do you want visitors coming to Puerto Viejo to know about the place and be mindful of?

We would like visitors to know about our environmental efforts to protect nature, the Caribbean heritage and to be inspired by these - because that is what makes Puerto Viejo unique among Costa Rica’s beach towns. Every guest should participate in our sustainability tour - these show every practice taken at the Hotel as well as the history of this place, which is very important to understand the culture and landscape of Puerto Viejo.


What other hotels or destinations have influenced you (beyond Costa Rica) and Elena?

We’ve both travelled a lot together ever since Elena was quite young and believe that a key element of a great experience are the memories and the feelings that a particular place can leave you with forever, that you can access later on in life. Two very joyful trips I remember are both road trips that we took together, one in California where we drove Highway 1 from Los Angeles to San Francisco and stayed in several hotels along the way. They were all so different but special! Ventana Inn, Chateau Marmont, Ace Hotel in Palm Springs and a really kitsch but very unique one with themed rooms called Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo. The other was in Italy where we went to Porto Ercole. We stayed at a friend’s family style B&B and then at Il Pellicano, a beautiful hotel which has a special history and really was an inspiration for Hotel Aguas Claras. In terms of attention to detail and a very personal and beautiful service I will never forget a trip we did to Indonesia on a yoga retreat. For me, the unique and sacred approach to hospitality in Asia and the feeling it leaves you with is unmatched in the world!


Where are you going when international travel reopens for Costa Ricans and you feel comfortable moving around internationally?

I would love to visit Oaxaca again, attend art and cooking workshops. Know more and learn about their textiles, natural dyes and how they are made. And The Galapagos Islands are also a place I would love to visit.

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Ecuador & Galapagos: Where and How to Travel Now

Whats the current state of travel in Ecuador in October 2020? We share some tips and advice for arranging trips there now.

Ecuador & Galapagos: Where and How to Travel Now

Ecuador was one of the first and hardest hit countries in South America by Coronavirus at the beginning of the pandemic. The terrible months of March and April resulted in some of the most severe lockdown measures of any country on earth, the results of which have continued to trend positive until today, the curve flattened in May and has stayed that way.  The US Department of State dropped the travel warning for Ecuador to Level 3: “Reconsider Travel” - one of only 5 countries in South America.

Reality Check:  Just to put statistics in perspective, since the majority of readers of this blog will be US based travel industry professionals referencing destinations to pitch to their clients: The entire country of Ecuador with a population of 18 million has recorded 141k total cases of Coronavirus since March 17th - while Los Angeles County, with 11 million inhabitants, has recorded 275k case in the same period. (Ecuador shows a 0.007% infection rate vs LA County at .025%)

Since May, Ecuador has cautiously opened their economy, bit by bit, and by July 1st the hotels which we represent on mainland Ecuador (Casa Gangotena, Mashpi Lodge, Hacienda Zuleta) reopened, but in a limited capacity and only to local Ecuadorian guests as the international borders remained closed.  This move however, of allowing the hotels to welcome Ecuadorian guests proved to be great, allowing the hoteliers a limited stream of income, but more importantly, the ability to retain key staff and refine their operations and sanitary protocols over time, in preparation for welcoming international visitors back.  They have not gone from zero to sixty overnight, they have been looking after guests safely for three months now, they are running solid operations and their staff are accustomed to the new reality of travel. 

On July 1st, Ecuador reopened its borders to international visitors and the frequency of commercial flight routes and frequencies has continued to grow.  Currently, as of October 7th, the following list of major airline carriers have multiple direct flights weekly to both Quito (UIO) and Guayaquil (GYE), the principal international gateways.

United from Houston to Quito

American Airlines from Miami to Quito and Guayaquil

JetBlue from New York to Quito and Guayaquil

JetBlue from Fort Lauderdale to Quito

Copa Airlines from Panama City to Quito

AeroMexico from Mexico City to Quito

KLM from Amsterdam to Quito and Guayaquil

AirEuropa from Madrid to Quito

Iberia from Madrid to Quito

So what are the entry requirements?  Visitors from any nation are allowed into mainland Ecuador by showing a negative PCR Covid test taken within 10 days of flight arrival (not needed for children under 18).  A basic heath questionnaire needs to be filled out and temperature checks are given upon arrival.  Once you have satisfied these requirements, you are free to circulate around the 23 provinces of mainland Ecuador.  With the variance in how quickly test results are being returned (in the United States) this 10 day window makes it very easy to prepare for departure, and the flights to/from Ecuador have been operating normally. 

You notice that I keep referring to “mainland Ecuador”?  That is because the #1 tourist attraction in Ecuador is the Galapagos Islands, which are just one of the 24 Provinces of Ecuador, but sit 800 miles off the Pacific Coast - and they have their own separate entry requirements.  In order to visit the Galapagos Island, visitors must show a negative PCR test taken within 4 days (96 hours) of arrival in the islands (not needed for children under 12), show proof of travel insurance which includes medical coverage, and a safe-conduct permit from your cruise or tour company.  

So all in all, Ecuador and the Galapagos is open.  But with mainland Ecuador and the Galapagos being two very different travel experiences, with different requirements, how best to go about organizing a trip there?  Below, I’ll break it down for you and provide some ideas, suggestions and things to consider in planning trips there at the moment.

Time to contemplate.  Deep in the Mashpi Reserve in the Cloud forest of Ecuador

Time to contemplate. Deep in the Mashpi Reserve in the Cloud forest of Ecuador

1) Mainland Ecuador is good to go. The requirements for entry are easy, flights are abundant and stable, and there is so much to see and offer on mainland Ecuador that it is deserving of its own trip, without the Galapagos.  Most visitors to Ecuador don’t even spend much time on mainland Ecuador in their rush to the Galapagos and back; but the country has Amazon Rainforest, High Andes, Cloud Forests, Tropical Coast paired with an  incredible Cultural and Historical diversity, all easily reached in this small compact country.  The visitor experiences that mainland Ecuador offer are naturally socially distanced - this isn’t a destination for museums or group touring, it is about nature, wildlife and open space - enjoyed on private customized itineraries.   To give you an example, below is a fantastic 10 day, door to door itinerary, that may interest your clients which includes Casa Gangotena in Quito, Mashpi Lodge in the Cloud Forest and Hacienda Zuleta in the Andes. 

*Feel free to save and share this itinerary with your clients, you can replace the logo and contact details with your own in the header and footer. You can have this itinerary quoted by your DMC or Tour Operator of choice, or work with the properties direct. f you need help with this document or how to book, please email me.

2) If you have a couple or family looking to go somewhere to work or school remote for an extended period, there couldn’t be a more ideal place for this than Hacienda Zuleta.  The historic Hacienda building dates back to 1619 covers a whopping 150,000 square feet of space, with the most delightful areas to work from tucked throughout the charming hacienda - and rock solid wifi. When work or school is done, you have a 4,000 acre private farm and wildlife conservation area to explore by foot, bike or horseback - and you don’t have to worry about cooking or cleaning!  Weekends can be spent exploring other parts of Ecuador.  Zuleta has been a home away from home for my family and children for many years, it’s the place they always want to go back to, always feeling at home and well looked after by Fernando and the local Zuleta community.  Zuleta is offering up to 35% discounts on stays of a week or more with additional discounts for children.  If you have clients interested in this, please email Gabriela at Zuleta, who handles international reservations.

Two women from the community, enjoying some sunshine in the courtyard of Hacienda Zuleta, doing embroidery and catching up on news.

Two women from the community, enjoying some sunshine in the courtyard of Hacienda Zuleta, doing embroidery and catching up on news.

3) Now on to the Galapagos….which is primarily known as a cruising destination.  It’s should be easy enough to get clients from your home to the Galapagos within the 96 hour testing window.   But make sure you can count on the PCR test turnaround times, calculate the flight connection times from their home to Guayaquil or Quito, calculate an overnight in Quito or Guayaquil prior to the Galapagos flight the next day, and of course factor in some buffer time should there be a flight delay or missed connection.  The alternative to this is to have clients enter mainland Ecuador on the 10 day test, arrange another test for them upon arrival and then go stay somewhere for a few nights while they await test results and then fly to the Galapagos. The reality is that there are fewer people coming to the Galapagos right now than to mainland Ecuador due to these more stringent measures and the added logistical complexities of getting to the Galapagos.  Add to this the inherent public concern about being on a cruise ship for multiple days in close contact with other passengers and crew, and a greatly reduced number of available flights between Mainland Ecuador and the Galapagos - plus the reality that some (not all) cruise ships, due to lack of demand, are forming pools with other vessels where travelers may end up on a different vessel and itinerary than what they booked, if the occupancy for the ship and itinerary your clients booked is very low.  All of these factors understandably combine to make travelers uneasy about booking a Galapagos trip at the moment, the Galapagos is one of those once in a lifetime bucket list trips, and consumers are anxious to shell out for such an expensive trip under such uncertainty.  But for the intrepid who want to go now, I couldn’t imagine a better time to be in the Galapagos with so few visitors, and how incredible the wildlife viewing must be since they have been left alone by tourists for six solid months.  The experience would be akin to those advisors traveling to Africa at the moment witnessing the great migration all to themselves.  My real concern is that since operating in the Galapagos is such an expensive business, and the industry has been decimated since March, there are some tour operators that are willing to do whatever it takes to make bookings right now - they desperately need the income (well, we all do).  So combine the inherent group travel nature of the Galapagos, a lack of healthcare capacity in these remote islands, and a small number of reckless players in the industry - the situation is ripe for an outbreak, which if happens now, is only going to damage the Galapagos tourism industry even more (and Ecuador as a whole) through viral press coverage.  So be sure to work with established, well run and responsible operators - I sincerely want to encourage people to travel to Ecuador and the Galapagos now, but sensibly.   

The Galapagos Safari Camp, remote and private in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island

The Galapagos Safari Camp, remote and private in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island

3) What about the Galapagos Safari Camp which you represent?  The Galapagos Safari Camp has always served as an amazing alternative option in the Galapagos for those looking for more a more private and customized Galapagos experience, ideal for those travelers that are not keen on joining a group tour on a cruise ship. The small size of the property, located in a remote portion of the highlands with the luxury tented accommodation and private villa were virtually made with social distancing in mind, before it became part of our global lexicon in 2020.  The owners, Michael and Stephanie, are in no rush to open due to the concerns I’ve outlined above - but are offering completely private takeovers of the 3 bedroom family villa on property or the 9 luxury tents.  Those groups would have their own private guide and private chartered day yacht vessels to explore the outer islands just with their own group, no mixing with other visitors.  During normal times at Galapagos Safari Camp, as an example pre-COVID, we may have 6 different bookings at a time, each doing their own customized itinerary but potentially mixing together for the day yacht excursions to outer islands - as well as having guests that are staying with us post cruise. They are not willing to offer these sort of semi-shared excursions at the moment nor are they accepting guests that are disembarking from cruise ships.  So if you have a group or family from 4 up to 16 people in total, we have completely private programs to offer them beginning in November - and on top of that, we have key holiday season dates available.  Please email the owner, Stephanie Bonham-Carter directly to receive the details of these programs. 

Sundowners at Galapagos Safari Camp, in Private

Sundowners at Galapagos Safari Camp, in Private

Please remember that I am here to assist and guide you should you have any inquiries for Ecuador & the Galapagos, just email me. And this website has great tools full of marketing materials, PDFs, Videos, Images and Sample Itineraries.

I will personally be traveling to Ecuador in the next few weeks, and will be producing a daily video blog of the experience to share with you and your clients, of the current reality of traveling there. I’ll send more details on that when my dates are set.

Sending you positive energy-

Clark

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Costa Rica: Where & How to Travel Now

Costa Rica is poised to welcome citizens and residents from all of the United States on November 1st after over two months of selectively staggering international tourism and focusing on the domestic market. Find all the latest info on entry requirements, in -country regulations and steps being taken by our partners to welcome your travelers back safely and warmly.

Costa Rica: Where & How to Travel Now

Since closing it’s international borders in March, Costa Rica has effectively controlled the Covid-19 outbreak throughout the country. As of October 3, 2020, Costa Rica - with a population of over 5 million - has 79,182 cases of COVID-19 (10,650 of these are “Por Nexo” which is a way of counting everyone in a household that has a confirmed Covid case as having the virus, though this is done without a test) and 950 fatalities.

Domestic tourism with regulations has been permitted in the country since June and Costa Rica has taken smart strategic measures to encourage residents to explore their own country. (For example, all national holidays in 2020 and 2021 were moved to Mondays so that Costa Ricans can enjoy long weekends to travel around the country and extend their stays.) And our hotel partners have all been open and welcoming the high-end local market, which has allowed them to dial in the new protocols, streamline operations within current restrictions, and most importantly, the hotels have had a vital revenue stream over the past several months, enabling most of them to increase their payroll & hiring by 50% since June.

Says Hans Pfister, Co-Founder & President of the Cayuga CollectionIt’s very, very hard to go from 0 to 100 or even 0 to 75 overnight. Hotels that have stayed closed must hire and retrain staff, ensure everyone understands and follows the new protocols and figure out their own supply chains and what is possible. You can have a plan, but you can’t really determine how well it works until you can apply it in real time. For the Cayuga Collection Hotels, being open and catering to the high end local market for months now has given us plenty of time to “practice” in a way, ensuring we are 100% ready for the return of international guests. Our hotel teams are also excited and motivated, seeing their hard work and dedication over these difficult months pay off.”

Part of this dedication is because the hotels which Clark and I partner with throughout Latin America are owned by individuals as opposed to boards of investors, and in this case, 4 out of the 5 hotels that we represent in Costa Rica are owned by local Tico families - they are passion projects born out of love of place as much as they are businesses. People travel for different reasons but this is something for advisors to consider when discussing Costa Rica travel plans with your clients - suggesting hotels that have been open, supporting the local economy and doing things right for months vs. those that have been closed and don’t plan to reopen until mid November or festive.

Morning set up at Hotel Aguas Claras

Morning set up at Hotel Aguas Claras

Now for all of the details.

Who Can Visit Costa Rica: As of November 1st, all United States Citizens can enter Costa Rica for tourism purposes.

Costa Rica is also currently open to all citizens and residents of Canada, Mexico, the UK, the EU Schengen Zone, Australia, New Zealand, Uruguay, Jamaica, Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Singapore, and the People’s Republic of China.

Requirements for Entry: All travelers arriving in Costa Rica must present the following:

  • Prior to departing the US, complete the online Health Pass Form. Each passenger must answer this health pass individually and after the completion of the health pass, they will receive a QR and alphanumeric code that they must carry on their mobile or printed on paper to present to authorities at the airport.

  • Travel Insurance that guarantees coverage of at least $50,000 USD in medical expenses in the event of becoming ill with COVID-19 while in Costa Rica AND a minimum of USD $2,000 for lodging expenses required as a result of contracting the virus (trip interruption insurance to cover quarantine expenses) Travelers should ask their insurance company to issue a certificate stating these coverages. Policies vary and everyone needs to do their own due diligence.

  • Travelers may also opt to purchase insurance through Sagicor, a Costa Rican company that offers policies in accordance with the government mandates. This can easily be done online here: Tienda Sagicor Sagicor also has a desk in the San Jose International Airport where they will examine traveler’s insurance policies on arrival and if 1.) the policy doesn’t meet the requirements they can sell them coverage that does or 2.) issue the necessary certificate that verifies the the coverage offered by an international policy meets the governments requirements.

  • Gurpo INS, the International Insurance Company in Costa Rica also offers coverage but the interface on their website is terrible and hard to navigate. We can’t recommend that anyone attempt it!

While the insurance bit may pose a slight inconvenience, it’s important to assure your clients that they will not be barred from entry into the country if they somehow purchased the wrong insurance at home as long as they obtain the additional necessary coverage on arrival.

Costa Rica no longer requires any Covid testing as a condition for entry.

More information can also be found on Visit Costa Rica

International Flights: Right now there are a handful of direct nonstop flights to San Jose International Airport from the following USA airports. Schedules are much better if you are on the East Coast as all of the West Coast must currently fly through Houston.

  • Newark: United Departs EWR daily at 7:15 am and arrives in San Jose at 10:30 am. Gotta love a flight that aligns well with hotel check-in times! You can be on your way to the beach and enjoy a late lunch surf side by 2:00 pm.

  • Miami: Two nonstops per day on American Airlines, a morning and evening option, both have you in San Jose in about 2 hours, 30 minutes. (Also, when I checked for this blog post, roundtrip tickets in Standard Economy were $230 each for flights during the second half of October.)

  • Houston: One flight daily on United, departing IAH at 9:37 am and arriving SJO at 12:25 pm.

  • Delta, Alaska, Southwest and JetBlue have yet to resume their service to Costa Rica, and we don’t talk about Sp*r*t. But there are rumors that the first four airlines will begin direct service from Atlanta, Dallas, Boston and Fort Lauderdale at the end of October or early November. United also plans to restart direct flights to San Jose from Denver next month.

Domestic Flights: SANSA, the national domestic carrier in Costa Rica hasn’t resumed full service yet due to a lack of demand. The fleet of 12 Cessna Grand Caravans is fully operational so we expect more domestic flights to become available as passenger load increases over high season. But for the time being, they are not entirely reliable and scheduled departures are frequently cancelled or rolled into a single option.

So How Do You Get Around Costa Rica?: In the absence of regularly scheduled, reliable commercial flights to more out of the way destinations (think Osa & Nicoya Peninsula, the Caribbean Coast) private charter flights are a great option, especially for family or friend groups of 4 or more. We’ve always championed private aviation in Costa Rica - it make zipping from the Pacific to the Caribbean side of the country a breeze (compared to an all-day driving adventure on windy mountain roads) and the terrain you fly above is BEAUTIFUL - Napali Coast-like undulating rainforest covered hills rising from the sea to the cloud forests to the Continental Divide. Not to mention it keeps your social bubble intact, preserves your valuable vacation time and eliminates the need to connect via San Jose, as is often the case with Sansa when attempting to fly from Puerto Jimenez to La Fortuna for example.

Some of our partners, like Kurà, offer access to a private helipad and for a couples retreat, this is the perfect & fun arrival option for two, either when traveling to Kurà from San Jose or when connecting from elsewhere in the country.

Lapa Rios has made it easy and done the work for you, offering their Epic Private Adventure that combines sister properties Pacuare Lodge & Lapa Rios Lodge into one seamless trip, including private charter flights between Siquirres (the take out point after rafting out from Pacuare Lodge) and Puerto Jimenez/Puerto Jimenez & San Jose. Private transfers and dedicated guides at each property are also included. Rates start at $6,683 per person, double occupancy in a River View Suite (Pacuare) and a Deluxe Bungalow (Lapa Rios.) Contact Greivin Alvaraz at greivin@laparios.com for more information.

Social distancing happens naturally at Lapa Rios. Refreshed Deluxe Bungalows are surrounded with lush greenery & uninhibited wildlife.

Social distancing happens naturally at Lapa Rios. Refreshed Deluxe Bungalows are surrounded with lush greenery & uninhibited wildlife.

For travelers who want the expert planning guidance of an advisor but are more DIY on the ground, renting a car and driving Costa Rica’s roads is great fun and a very affordable way to get around, especially if you are hauling surf boards and want the to explore less accessible spots. Just get a little SUV with 4WD, make sure you have WAZE downloaded (and a data plan that allows you to use navigation while driving) and go. Hans Pfister shares that there are “some driving restrictions in place to ensure that people aren’t gathering late for parties, but they apply to the hours from 10 pm to 5 am and don’t affect our guests.”

For families with young kids and first time travelers to Costa Rica, we love this 7-night MONTEVERDE & MANUEL ANTONIO itinerary, which can be done via a rental car or with a private transfers arranged by the hotels, Senda Monteverde & Arenas Del Mar. Oh, and we are very excited that the road to Monteverde is now 100% paved! No more “Tico Massage” for the last 20 km! It makes Monteverde a quick and smooth 2 hour drive from San Jose and more accessible than it was previously.

Regulations in Country: As mentioned previously, hotels in Costa Rica have been allowed to operate at limited capacity since June and all of our partners have been open for several months now and are pros of travel in the era of Covid. You can check out the specific policy of each property on our Covid-19 Updates page.

While all hotel amenities (restaurants, guided excursions, beach clubs, pools, wellness centers) are open & available for guest use at our partner hotels, some have been adapted to accommodate social distancing, private experiences and more frequent deep cleanings.

Costa Rica requires that face coverings be worn in enclosed spaces, on public transportation, and when a distance of three meters cannot be maintained between people.

National Parks are open though entries are limited to control crowding & group sizes are limited. Most of our partners are only offering private excursions at this time. For something like Corcovado National Park which is an easy day trip from Lapa Rios, make sure to request this at the time of booking so entry is secured.

Beaches are “officially” open from 5:00 am until 2:30 pm, but as Hans shares in his blog “what it’s like to travel in Costa Rica right now” this rule is largely meant to prevent large parties and gatherings from occurring. While Da Lime beach club at Hotel Aguas Claras and Playitas Beach Club at Arenas Del Mar must stop their beachfront service at 2:30 pm, guests can still enjoy drinks and food at the physical restaurants until normal closing hours. And if you decide to take your cocktail for a sunset walk in the surf, no one is going to bother you.

OCT 8 UPDATE: Restricted beach hours ended on October 15.

Waves and sand basically all to yourself at Arenas Del Mar

Waves and sand basically all to yourself at Arenas Del Mar

What’s With the Travel Warning?: Costa Rica’s well-intentioned attempt to encourage some accountability by US governments by only permitting tourism from States with low infection rates has ultimately led to the USA maintaining a Level 4 travel warning against Costa Rica while dropping it for neighboring countries (Like Nicaragua) which impose no restrictions against US travelers. It’s petty, bureaucratic nonsense and we expect the travel warning to drop once borders reopen to all American travelers.

I have yet to travel to Costa Rica - in fact this coming weekend will be my first flight since March - a trip to see my parents in Pittsburgh and then husband’s grandparents in Naples, FL for some long-overdue & precious family time. Travel right now is a personal choice, but for me, after East Coast family visits, I’ll be making plans to head to Costa Rica and Panama in early November to champion our industry partners and friends and share the experience with all of you! Reach out via email if you have any questions at all - I’m happy to help and excited to feel the buzz of energy in our part of the industry again.

Kirsten

kirsten@clarkkotula.com

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Renewable Energy, Conservation & Community Enrichment: Lapa Rios Looks to the Future

Lapa Rios looks to the future of ecotourism with renewable energy upgrades and a Conservation Fee dedicated to supporting education and research on the Osa Peninsula

Renewable Energy, Conservation & Community Enrichment: Lapa Rios Looks to the Future

Lapa Rios is a Costa Rican-owned luxury rainforest lodge and 1,000 acre conservation easement on the Osa Peninsula with a long legacy of environmental protection and community partnership. Recently they enhanced their already considerable sustainability initiatives, upgrading their technology to allow 100% reliance on renewable resources and finding new ways to combine economic initiatives for the local community with protection of the Osa’s rich wilderness. Despite the disruption in international travel, Lapa Rios’ mission remains to offer travelers and adventure seekers the opportunity to experience Costa Rica’s most stunningly beautiful natural places through a lodge concept that is truly luxurious, immersive and driven by conservation.

Rainforest meets wild beaches at Lapa Rios on the Osa Peninsula

Rainforest meets wild beaches at Lapa Rios on the Osa Peninsula

Sustainability is a core value of Lapa Rios. The property has been single-use plastic free for nearly two decades, uses biodegradable & environmentally friendly cleaning products, provides a critical protected corridor for wildlife within its 1,000 acre private rainforest reserve and carefully sources food from local producers & fishermen. Recently the property converted to 100% reliance on renewable sources of energy, utilizing a powerful system of solar panels and nano turbines to collect solar and hydro energy to power the entire lodge. This was based on the hydro-power systems already in use at Lapa Rios’ sister property, Pacuare Lodge.

Alongside these sustainable energy property-wide upgrades were extensive room renovations. In addition to six stunning brand new villas - all with luxurious, modern interior design but low-impact construction - Lapa has revamped the existing Deluxe Bungalows, adding high power, energy efficient ceiling fans and low-flow toilets to conserve water. Far from the closest public utility, water at Lapa Rios comes from a natural spring on the property, which is filtered on-site and safe for guest consumption. Guests are given refillable, stainless steel water bottles to use during their stay.

Immerse yourselves in the lush rainforest canopy at Lapa Rios.

Immerse yourselves in the lush rainforest canopy at Lapa Rios.

Lapa Rios also recently initiated a Conservation Fee for all guests in order to expedite further environmental efforts within Corcovado National Park. The fee is $25 per guest per stay and 100% goes towards different projects that Lapa Rios is helping to pioneer and launch throughout the Osa Peninsula. Projects include hiring two full time administrative staff for Corcovado National Park (allowing the spread-thin park rangers to focus on patrolling and visitor education), funding environmental education for children throughout the Osa Peninsula, building a research lab station for university students to study rainforest biodiversity, rebuilding the local waste collection and recycling centers in Puerto Jimenez and further surveying surrounding national parks and nature reserves with infrared cameras to monitor wildlife and help protect the environment from illegal poaching, mining and logging. Lapa Rios also worked with the local community tourism collective in Puerto Jimenez to purchase a new, state of the art boat to provide rapid transit directly from Lapa Rios to Corcovado National Park. What was once an arduous all-day car journey is now a 90 minute scenic boat trip in each direction. By eliminating some of the logistical challenges and promoting intelligent and sensitive travel to Corcovado National Park, Lapa Rios is helping to protect the “jewel of the Osa” while simultaneously benefiting the local community with employment that is rooted in preservation as opposed to extraction.

Lapa Pacuare CK 2020.jpg

Some of these initiatives have been on hold during the global pandemic, but as tourism begins to open up again, Lapa Rios will continue to push forward in sustainably developing their property, expanding their conservation easement and further engaging with the local community. With a legacy of pioneering the ecotourism movement in Costa Rica, these new initiatives at Lapa Rios ensure that the property remains a leader in conscious, conservation minded travel, which we hope becomes the new normal in the future.


This blog was written by Olivia Winck, daughter of respected Travel Advisor Leah Winck, owner of Journey On Travel. Olivia is a rising junior at the University of California, Berkeley, studying environmental sustainability in the realm of hospitality in hopes to pursue a career in ecotourism. She is planning on furthering her knowledge in sustainability this spring while studying abroad in Hobart, Tasmania. With travel in her heart, Olivia is passionate about seeing the world and ensuring ways to protect it.

Olivia’s Instagram: @oliviawinck
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