Costa Rica Trip Report
Friends, I have a confession to make. I’ve been a traveler for nearly two decades now, but for the first ten or so years that I spent exploring countries and cultures around the globe, I didn’t give Costa Rica much thought. It seemed too tame, too easy, everyone was doing it. Not a priority. I’d get there eventually. Myanmar, Northern Brazil, Venezuela, Japan, Southern Africa - these were the more exotic, harder to access places that called to me first and filled my passports with their stamps and visas. Costa Rica could wait.
Clearly I have been converted by the gospel of Pura Vida and have been a devoted fan of Costa Rica ever since my first visit to the country (and more specifically the Osa Peninsula which is my happy place.) But after returning last month to dip a toe back into the waters of international travel, it dawned on me that Costa Rica’s reputation as a perfect “starter destination” and gateway country for international travel to more ambitious and farther flung locations make it THE ideal candidate for NOW as travelers cautiously consider a return to international explorations beyond a weekend at a gated resort in Cabo.
Happiness is a horseback ride at sunset in Monteverde
Costa Rica is safe, so very clean, a short nonstop flight from many airports throughout North America and extremely welcoming. Public health has always been prioritized (you can drink straight from the faucet almost anywhere in the country) and embracing a lifestyle that enables holistic wellbeing is literally the official national mantra. And, in the same understated, humble way that little Costa Rica has led the way in low-impact, high-return, sustainable nature-based tourism and doing things differently (like abolishing the army and investing instead in education) they’ve reopened with a unique but effective approach; gradually eliminating the friction points like PCR testing and mandatory quarantines on arrival* to jumpstart the country’s tourism industry while still maintaining common sense & science-based protocols (mask wearing indoors, social distancing) to reduce the risk of transmission. The data speaks for itself; opening up Costa Rica to travelers has shown so far to be safe and a great benefit both for locals and for visitors.
Ten days in the country was just the shot of sanity and sunshine I needed to feel slightly like myself again and reconnect to my purpose & passions. Costa Rica, with easy access and all the nature is the antidote to pandemic-induced depression - I can’t recommend it enough, especially if you’ve overlooked the country in the past.
Following are the details of my own trip in February 2021 and recommendations for you and your travelers, as someone who has been to the country eight times. Information is accurate at the time of writing but like everything these days, could very well change. Make sure to check the Costa Rican Tourism Board website as well as those of your own country of origin for the latest information prior to travel.
Requirements for Travel:
I’ve read about the numerous hoops that passionate travelers have jumped through to reach various destinations over the past few months. A complex evolving series of schedule changes, testing requirements, paperwork and certificates - likely well worth the hassle to access certain places right now. But that amount of effort and uncertainty may not appeal to everyone.
Traveling to Costa Rica was easy-breezy. Travelers must purchase insurance that meets three requirements: 1.) the policy must be effective for the entire time in-country 2.) It must offer at least $50,000 in coverage for Covid-19 related medical expenses and 3.) it must cover at a minimum $2,000 in extended lodging expenses due to Covid-19 (ie. cost to quarantine if you contract the virus).
#3 is what I get the most questions about as many major international providers (like TravelEx for example) do not expressly meet this condition. So, in addition to whatever larger policy your clients purchase, add on the Sagicor plan available HERE - coverage rates vary and for me at 37 yoa it was about $11/day. Is it a racket? Maybe, but it is easy to purchase and a small price to pay for peace of mind. Or, talk to your DMC about obtaining a letter of exemption from this requirement due to larger comprehensiveness of the coverage. We’ve recently learned this is possible too.
Otherwise travelers must fill out an electronic Health Pass which is available 48 hours prior to their international flight departure. Once completed you’ll receive a QR code via email which must be shown to the airlines prior to boarding your international flight and again at Passport Control upon arrival into the country. While I had printed copies of both my travel insurance and QR code, neither of these were necessary as the electronic version of the QR code was accepted and contained all needed info.
No testing is required to enter Costa Rica but is still encouraged out of respect for the safety and health of the local people. I opted for the rapid antigen test a couple of days prior to flying.
My mid-week flight from LAX to SJO on Alaska was only 25% full but I returned on a Sunday via the same route on a plane that was closer to 80%. If you have the flexibility to travel mid week, you might have an emptier flight.
Health & Safety Protocols In-Country
Mask wearing, temperature scanners and social distancing were all being enforced in SJO and at the adjacent domestic terminal and people were complying without issue. Hand sanitizer and hand washing stations are everywhere. Guides, drivers and staff were all masked, without exception. Generally the check-in experience at each hotel began with hand washing & a temperature check by masked staff though guests were not required to wear masks, unless passing through an enclosed, indoor space.* I don’t know how this is being enforced beyond our properties but as the vast majority of the lodges & hotels that we work with in Costa Rica are open-air with restaurants and spas existing in large, outdoor covered spaces with ample ventilation, mask wearing by guests wasn’t a requirement.
*For the first and last nights of my trip I stayed at the Courtyard Marriott in Alajuela, mostly for the free shuttle and proximity to the airport. All passengers and the driver were masked for the transfer but this was the only hotel I experienced where temperatures were not taken on arrival, luggage was not wiped down and hand washing wasn’t enforced (though sanitizer was available). Staff and guests were all masked at the hotel, which felt good enough for me personally, but something to be aware of for clients who are very nervous about traveling right now. A boutique San Jose property like Finca Rosa Blanca, Casa 41 or Grano de Oro may be a better choice even if the transit time is a bit further.
A nearly empty & well spaced out domestic terminal in San Jose at 7:30 am on Friday, February 28
Travel Through Costa Rica
On my second day it was back to the airport for an early flight to Puerto Jimenez and 4-day stay at Lapa Rios Lodge on the Osa Peninsula. The domestic terminal was super dialed with hand washing, disinfecting foot mats, taking temperatures on entry and blocking seats to enforce social distancing, though it was also virtually empty for my early AM flight.
Sansa, Green and Skyway airlines are again offering multiple nonstop daily options between San Jose and the southern Pacific airstrips in Golfito and Puerto Jimenez (as well as destinations throughout the country) though for groups of 4 or more chartering a small plane to fit your own schedule may make more sense and avoids the need to connect through San Jose when traveling point to point.
Also, do not be afraid of renting a car in Costa Rica. The country is a joy to drive through - river crossings or waiting for horses to pass on a road being part of the fun! A high clearance 4WD vehicle will get you just about anywhere and gives you flexibility to poke around on your own, searching out remote surf breaks and roadside sodas like a local. I get that some people prefer to be driven as driving stresses them out, but if your clients are interested, don’t dissuade them. Even the notoriously bad roads of the Nicoya Peninsula can be fun if approached with the right attitude. Rental car companies will privately deliver and pick up vehicles just about anywhere for a nominal fee.
At the hotels themselves, there was very much a sense of normalcy, of business as usual just with less guests than a typical February and the additional protocols mentioned above. Wellness centers, pools, bars and restaurants are all open with generous table spacing, though in some cases the hours may be reduced (like at Arenas Del Mar where breakfast and dinner are only being served at El Mirador though lunch service is offered at both El Mirador and Playitas Beach). Group yoga & fitness classes are on hold for the time being but mats and hand weights can be brought to your room to exercise in private. Most excursions are available, though there is an effort being made to arrange private tours exclusively whenever possible and school visits are not available at the moment. Daily visitor numbers at national parks are also reduced to prevent over crowding so make sure to arrange these excursions + permits in advance through the hotel or DMC. By and large the experience you can have as a traveler in Costa Rica is currently as good if not better than it was prior to the pandemic. The hotels are currently operating at around 30-55% average occupancy each month though Fridays & Saturdays do tend to be a bit busier with a robust local market in San Jose looking to escape the city for the weekend.
The Case for the South
Every country has its greatest hits, the same places that are on the list of each and every visitor. How often are these well known players the highlight of the trip vs. the surprise delight of somewhere unexpected?
In Costa Rica the Papagayo + Arenal Combo is everybody’s go-to, by and large utilizing the same handful of franchised beach resorts that could be located anywhere in the tropics. This is not to disparage what they offer (though I’m sure my tone implies otherwise), but to encourage you to nudge your clients south and dive into the essence of the country. To Uvita, to the Osa, to Monteverde instead of or in addition to Arenal, to the Caribbean Coast. Places that retain a unique sense of place and authentic Costa Rican-ness that hasn’t been over-branded and over-produced and expatted out of them. Then go to Papagayo. But just don’t only send your travelers there - it’s a purpose built “multi use luxury development complex” and is barely a taste of the variety of experiences that Costa Rica enables.
I could write a novel about each lodge that we work with but if I can make a case for just two places that I revisited on this trip, it has to be Kurà in Uvita and Lapa Rios Lodge on the Osa Peninsula.
“It is great to be down here, and it was so wonderful to experience Kura and Lapa Rios last week. Of course, everyone expects the beautiful views at the properties and all of the wildlife at Lapa Rios, but beyond that we felt that the staff at both properties were exceptional. They consistently went above and beyond and truly made us feel at home.At Lapa Rios we stayed in villa 15 – I thought the redesign was beautifully done! Sitting out on the terrace taking in the views with the wildlife all around was amazing. Definitely a highlight of the trip!”
Lapa Rios sits at the southern end of the Osa Peninsula, a destination renowned for incredible, record-setting biodiversity but less know for the amazing surf breaks that are easily accessed from the property and cater to all skill levels. When there, nature exists all around you - from the symphony of sounds as the rainforest residents greet each dawn to the monkeys scampering across your balcony to the toucans and scarlet macaws having breakfast overhead. The area around the lodge - protected forever as a conservation easement - vibrates with life in a way that is restorative and energizing. I felt so grateful to be back there, watching the sunrise from my deck each morning, while enjoying a cup of coffee and steamed milk, delivered to my door at 6:00 am.
Women leaders of Lapa Rios, from L to R, Paola Calderón (Head of Sustainability), Maureen Montenegro (General Manager), Cany Samudio (Administrative Coordinator) and Stephanie Rivas (Head of Guest Services)
But being immersed in the rainforest does not come at the expense of comfort. Lapa Rios underwent some major upgrades over the past year, and I was thrilled to finally experience these firsthand. Fiberoptic cable has enabled strong and fast WiFi in every room and all public spaces (which we put to the test when live streaming a Virtual Visit.) The new suites (Lapa Villas and Premier Villas) are enormous and gorgeous (View this VIDEO TOUR OF ROOMS HERE) and ideal for larger families. Evening Breeze beds provide a personal cooling system for those that desire it while sleeping. A lovely new bar and expansive deck maximize the views over the rainforest clad hills and turquoise blue Golfo Dulce. A largely female-led staff has been getting creative, setting up scenic and private dining options throughout the lodge, decks and around the pool. And the complete overhaul of the kitchen + culinary guidance of Greek Chef George Belesis has allowed for the creation of three separate a la carte multi-course menus which rotate daily and highlight local flavors in an elevated manner. With a variety of creative vegetarian options, I truly looked forward to every meal and only regret to not have sampled them all (some favorites are below) A walk-in, temperature-controlled wine room is being installed in the main lodge and an elevated ramp & hanging bridge is replacing the stairs that used to connect the main lodge & pool area to the first 10 rooms, making the trip between them both easier and more enjoyable. (Room 11 is being used for wellness treatments. Rooms 12-17 are the new villas and complimentary car service is included for guests in those rooms should they prefer not to walk.)
And the activities are endless. In addition to the 8 guided excursions included in the rates - covering everything from medicinal botany to early morning birding - one can paddle through the mangroves, kayak with bioluminescence, surf gorgeous point breaks, go dolphin and whale watching, rappel down waterfalls, discover the culture of the Osa with visits to local farms and families (some currently altered due to Covid) or take a day trip to Corcovado National Park on a boat that collects you right from the beach below Lapa Rios. I opted to do this on a Sunday and it was absolutely worth it to spot a mother and baby tapir at very close range. 100% powered by renewable resources and committed to conservation & regeneration, Lapa Rios is the premier choice for travelers venturing to the Osa Peninsula and time and again is the unexpected highlight from an entire trip to Costa Rica.
North of the Osa, above the beach town of Uvita, Kurà is as lovely as ever, perched on a hilltop with expansive views of the Pacific Ocean and Marino Ballena National Park with its uniquely shaped “Whale’s Tail sandbar. It is not a place to be seen with just 8 suites and catering to adult couples, but a place to hideaway, indulge in self care and reconnect with yourself and your partner amidst a beautiful location. Since my last visit there weren’t any major changes though a few small enhancements elevate the guest experience; an expanded premier wine list, personal wine fridges in each suite, a seamless, contactless communication system with the front desk to easily order every meal in your suite, portable bluetooth speakers in each suite that guests can take to the beach, tiny LED reading lights that clip to a book for when one partner wants to sleep and the other can’t put down a good read. Little details, but thoughtfully done.
Doing sunsets at Kurà - photo courtesy of Matthew LaPolice of Mayamaya Travel who stayed at Kurà & Lapa Rios in February.
Travel Advisors who have heard of Kurà but haven’t yet visited it themselves most frequently ask “what is there to do? it seems so isolated.” Honestly, you don’t come to Kurà to do. You come to be. To be cared for, to be surrounded by beauty, to just take a little sabbatical from life for a few days. You do sunsets at the pool because they really are an ethereal event in and of themselves. Maybe you do the beach one day, taking advantage of the private & complimentary Land Cruiser transfers to six different beaches that Kurà extends to guests any time they wish. Or pop down to Uvita to check out the weekly farmer’s market or dine at one of the up and coming restaurants (like the sushi & wine bar at the bottom of the hill.) But most guests come, take in the view, decide they aren’t leaving and opt to cancel whatever has been booked for them over the next few days to instead soak in the pleasure and peace of the place. And after a year of nonstop, stressful and challenging “doing” doesn’t that stillness sound nice?
Testing on Return Home
All air travelers to the USA must show proof of a negative Covid test taken within three days prior to their flight departure. To facilitate this requirement, Costa Rica has rapidly ramped up testing sites and labs throughout the country and in most cases hotels can arrange private in-room testing onsite for a fee.
PCR and rapid antigen tests are now available throughout the country. During my trip in mid-February, the rapid antigen tests were brand new, having just been approved (for travel purposes only) to begin on February 16. Generally these tests are less expensive than PCR tests, results are returned sooner and the experience is a little less painful as the swab does not need to go quite as deep into the nasal cavity.
Happy to mask up. Sad to head home. Planning my return.
Prior to returning home I had the team at Cayuga Travel schedule my appointment to be tested at Clinica Biblica in San Jose. (Yes, appointments are recommended) The cost was about $45, the testing occurred in the hospital’s parking garage and was administered in my vehicle and I had my results emailed to me in about four hours, in plenty of time for my flight the next day. Since that date, more labs have been approved to offer rapid antigen testing and the available sites across the country have only increased. THIS BLOG has the most complete and up-to-date list of testing that I’ve found in Costa Rica but even easier is just to ask your DMC what the options are. From my experience, I almost always need to spend the last night of my trip in San Jose due to west coast flight times, so getting a rapid antigen Covid test in the city was easy, affordable and efficient when scheduled in advance.
Have questions about travel to Costa Rica now? I’m happy to speak with your clients and give them an enthusiastic pep talk on why Costa Rica & pura vida really is a good idea right now. Drop me a note at kirsten@clarkkotula.com if I can help you with anything.
*As of late February, Costa Rica had welcomed more than 200,000 tourists. Just 250 of them had tested positive for Covid - an infection rate of just .13% which the Costa Rican Department of Health and Ministry of Tourism proudly share as proof that the decision to reopen the country and eliminate testing has not led to an increase in Covid cases from outside of its borders. This was the initial concern when the country eliminated the testing requirement for inbound travelers.