Why Travel to Arequipa to stay at Cirqa?
Ignacio Masias seems to have a knack for knowing where and when to launch a new property in Peru. While most in the travel industry are familiar with the names and reputations of his properties, less are familiar with Arequipa as a destination or know why someone would want to travel there to stay at Cirqa.
Three Reasons to Travel to Arequipa to stay at Cirqa
Ignacio Masias
Ignacio Masias seems to have a knack for knowing where and when to launch a new property in Peru. The Inkaterra Villas in the Sacred Valley, Titilaka on Lake Titicaca, Hotel B in Barranco, Atemporal in Miraflores—all of the projects he has been involved with have not only pushed the envelope in luxury hospitality experiences in Peru, but they have fundamentally changed or re-invented the destinations where they are located.
Now, Ignacio has done it again with the opening of Cirqa in Arequipa. While most in the travel industry are familiar with the names and reputations of his properties, fewer are familiar with Arequipa as a destination or know why someone would want to travel there.
During my ten years leading trips in Peru from 1997 to 2007, Arequipa was a mainstay of itineraries and hands-down my favorite city destination in Peru. I believe it kind of “fell off the map” starting around 2006 when luxury hotel development really started to ramp up in the Cusco/Sacred Valley/Machu Picchu area and high end travelers and travel advisors began to just focus on those areas. Arequipa has not lost any of its charm, but now the spotlight is back on it due to the opening of Cirqa. I want to share a few reasons why it is such a spectacular place to include in a Peru itinerary and how to do it.
1. The Weather, Altitude and Size of the City
Arequipa sits at a very manageable altitude of 7,600 feet (2,300 meters) right at the convergence zone between the Atacama Desert and the high Andes. The city boasts 300 days of sunshine a year on average, low humidity, and average daytime temperatures in the low 70’s—in other words, it’s an absolutely splendid climate. For travelers who are worried about how the high altitude is going to affect them in Cusco (11,200 feet) or Lake Titicaca (12,500 feet), Arequipa makes a perfect acclimatization stop for a couple of nights before moving on to higher elevations. Also, if you like nice weather, consider that during the “high season” of tourism in Peru between June through August, Lima is cloaked in cold heavy fog those months while Arequipa is marvelous.
Arequipa is Peru’s second largest city, so flights from Lima (only 1hr20min flight time) are leaving almost every half an hour from sunup to sundown, so you can pretty much connect right to Arequipa on arrival in Lima easily, and then fly directly on to Cusco from Arequipa. Also, if you want the culture and vibrancy that a city offers, but are turned off by traffic and total mass humanity of Lima, Arequipa is only about a million people vs the nine million of Lima. It’s a very manageable size and a joy to explore on foot or by short car trips. Combine the weather, elevation, size, and all there is to do in Arequipa, and it makes a great alternative to Lima for the right travelers.
2. The Variety of Things to Do
Being Peru’s second largest city, Arequipa offers visitors a huge variety of experiences. It’s also easily escaped, if you like cities but need some outdoor time as well. There is fantastic whitewater rafting, mountain biking, hiking, and horseback riding right around the city outskirts.
Arequipa is extremely picturesque on many levels. The city is ringed by three huge volcanoes which can be seen from the city center (Misti, Chachani, and Pichu Pichu) which are snow-capped during certain times of the year.
Due to these volcanoes, the entire city is built using a blocks of bright white volcanic stone called “sillar” which are often painted bright colors that give it an almost Portugese flair of sophistication. The architecture in Arequipa is one-of-a-kind due to the use of this stone, and a joy to lay your eyes on. The most visited attraction in Arequipa is the Santa Catalina Monastery which is a sprawling historical complex right in the city center—a wonderful meditative experience is to just wander through this complex as you soak up the colors, textures, and serenity of this monastic oasis in the city center. For museums, Arequipa has a total jewel in the “Museum of Andean Sanctuaries.” This museum houses “Juanita the Ice Maiden;” the mummy of a young girl who was sacrificed during an Incan ritual on nearby Mount Ampato sometime between 1450-1480. She was discovered by mountain climbers in 1995. The high dry air kept her perfectly preserved—even her braided hair and the contents of her stomach were perfectly preserved. (In fact, most confirmed research that has been done on Incan ceremonial customs stems from Juanita.) The museum provides an incredible background in understanding the Incas connection with the earth.
There are lively markets to explore and to see the bounty of ingredients produced in Peru, and fantastic dining experiences throughout the city including the private restaurant at Cirqa. Culturally, Arequipa is the Peruvian center for art and literature and was the home of Peru’s most famous author and activist, Mario Vargas Llosa, who won a Nobel prize for literature. His home has been converted into a splendid interactive museum—well worth a visit.
Sitting in the lively Plaza de Armas at sunset, listening to children's laughter as they play tag between the towering date palms, watching the colors reflecting off the white sillar stone of the Cathedral, the perfect temperature enveloping you with a backdrop of Andean volcanoes…is simply an unforgettable experience. Simply put, a couple of days in Arequipa will leave you not wanting to leave. It’s the most pleasant atmosphere of a city in Peru, hands down.
3. Overland Trips from Arequipa
Cirqa was conceived as the sister property of Titilaka, Ignacio’s other incredible property on Lake Titicaca. The properties are in sync and if combining them on the same trip, you can check in at one and check out at the other. The full day overland journey between Arequipa and Lake Titicaca is wonderful and well off the beaten path. The route takes you right through the middle of the close to one-million-acre “Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve.” This reserve consists of large altiplano grasslands and massive volcanoes, the grasslands are brimming with massive herds of llama, alpaca, vicuna, and guanaco—all the species of Andean camelids. There also exist tranquil lagoons and wetlands, full of Andean flamingo and crested ducks. Many small indigenous communities are located along this route, whose inhabitants make a traditional living from the herding of Andean camelid species for wool and meat. It’s a rare corner of Peru that most visitors don’t get to see, undisturbed by the mass tourism of the Cusco and Machu Picchu areas.
Arequipa is also the gateway to the Colca Canyon, one of the deepest river canyons in the world at 10,730 feet deep. It’s pre-Incan and pre-Colombian inhabitants, the Collagua and Cabana, have carved out a mesmerizing mosaic of terraces throughout the valley which still sustain them. A visit to the Colca Canyon usually consists of visiting the cute colonial towns, visits with the indigenous communities, soaking in natural hot springs, hikes along the canyon rim, and a visit to “Cruz del Condor”—arguably the best place in South America to witness the majestic Andean Condor soar. The Andean Condor population has been well protected for many years and nest in the canyon walls. They begin soaring on their massive wingspans, which can reach up to 10 feet, mid-morning when the thermals build in the increasing warmth of the sun. The Colca Canyon can be visited to or from Arequipa for a couple of nights, or can be a stopover on the overland route to Lake Titicaca and Titilaka Lodge.
Cirqa offers various rate plan options from simple bed and breakfast rates where excursions and activities can be booked on site at additional cost, or fully inclusive rates which include airport transfers, two half-day or one full-day privately guided excursions, and the discovery transfer to Lake Titicaca.
Explore more about Cirqa at www.cirqa.pe or on our travel trade reference page of this website.
What's Next for Lapa Rios: Suite Upgrades & Upcoming Renovations
Lapa Rios on Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula has long been a globally respected model of sustainable tourism, community engagement and conservation. The new owners have exciting plans to elevate the guest experience while remaining true to these values.
What’s Next for Lapa Rios: New Suites & Planned Renovations
When the Fernandez and Loeb families purchased Lapa Rios in June of 2019, they were excited to become stewards of a very special place. The Osa Peninsula - dubbed the most biodiverse place on the planet - has drawn wildlife enthusiasts to the region for nearly three decades. Imagine spotting swooping scarlet macaws, lazy sloths, monkey chattering in the treetops and brilliant poison dart frogs hopping right in front of you, all on your way to breakfast. But it is this incredible biodiversity combined with Lapa Rios’s position at the tip of the tropical Golfo Dulce that makes it truly unique in the world. Protected from development by a land easement (the lasting legacy of original owners John & Karen Lewis) the property’s 1,000 acres of lush rainforest merge into sandy beach & warm turquoise water that teems with marine life while footpaths lead to three coveted point breaks, ideal for all surf ability and within walking distance from the lodge.
L to R, Roberto Fernandez, Jack Loeb, Luz Fernandez and daughter Natalia Fernandez, new owners of Lapa Rios Lodge
The Loeb and Fernandez families also own (and are the founders of) Pacuare Lodge, sister property to Lapa Rios within the National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World portfolio. “Lapa Rios is amazing, but we didn’t purchase it with the intention to leave everything as is. We plan to make changes,” shared Luz Fernandez, when we caught up with her recently. Most notably, and immediately, those plans include the move towards 100% renewable energy resources from a combination of solar and hydro power. (Previously the property used solar power to heat water but most electricity was provided from generators.)
They also worked with the local community in Puerto Jimenez to purchase a fast, comfortable and modern boat, enabling Lapa Rios guests to access Corcovado National Park in an easy 1.5 hours. Before, entering Corcovado from Lapa Rios was a bit arduous, requiring a pre-dawn wake-up, a long and bumpy road transfer and then a long boat ride, tallying over 3 hours of movement prior to reaching the park’s entrance station. Now, guests can enjoy their breakfast at a more civilized hour, take a quick trip to the closest dock and enter Corcovado National Park by 9:30 am, giving them more time to explore and search for tapirs, one of the park’s main animal attractions that is infrequently spotted within the Lapa Rios reserve. “If the tides are right, the boat can even pick up or drop off guests right at Playa Pan Dulce” (the beach closest to Lapa Rios), shared Luz. “They don’t even need to drive from the property.”
A young tapir spotted in Corcovado National Park. Photo credit to Guillermo Mulder.
Future plans include improving access to the water and elevating the guest beach experience, building a full spa, adding connectivity to the 17 casitas in the form of wifi and/or phones and addressing the # 1 source of guest complaints at Lapa Rios - the stairs. “It will take time, but we plan to eventually enable guests to access their rooms via electric golf carts. Guests will still have the choice to walk between their casitas and the main lodge, and indeed, especially in the morning the walk to breakfast is an awesome time to spot wildlife, but in the future they can also choose to ride instead,” shared Luz. An exact date for this project is TBD but it is high on the list of priorities.
Already in the works? Two new suite categories which will delight travel advisors whose clients may have previously thought of Lapa Rios as a little too rustic. 4 Lapa Ocean Villas and 2 Premier Lapa Suites opened on December 15th, providing upgraded suite options geared towards both couples and families. These new villas and suites are located at the lowest point of the property and closest to Playa Pan Dulce (where bungalows 14-17 previously stood). Architectural renderings and descriptions are below and all casitas (now called Deluxe Lapa Bungalows) will be upgraded and completely renovated over the next several months. All 17 units will retain the stunning views of the Golfo Dulce and surrounding rainforest canopy.
Lapa Ocean Villas (4 total)
Perched above the forest canopy and with sweeping ocean views, each newly built Lapa Ocean Villas immerses guests in the spectacular wild nature of the Osa Peninsula. Each stand-alone villa features smooth hardwood flooring and elegant natural accents. Floor to ceiling screens and a wide wrap-around deck ensure stunning views. The outdoor terrace has a private rain shower, a refreshing plunge pool, hammocks, and comfortable chairs and lounges. Indoors is a living area with a daybed plus a beverage nook with gourmet Costa Rican coffee. The master bedroom features one King bed, fine linens and eco fans. The villa has a spacious bathroom with two solar-heated rain showers. Lapa Ocean Villas can accommodate up to 5 people and are perfect for a family (2 adults and 3 kids) rainforest adventure.
Artist rendering of Lapa Ocean Villas
Premier Lapa Suites (2 total)
For couples or friends who want the best, the two new Premier Lapa Suites offer unparalleled comfort combined while immersing guests in one of the most biodiverse places on earth. Each private standalone suite is surrounded by the rainforest canopy and its abundance of wildlife. Private wraparound terraces feature hammocks and comfortable lounge seating plus a refreshing outdoor rain shower. Indoors you’ll find floor to ceiling views with screens to let in the ocean breezes, efficient eco-fans, a comfortable day bed & reading nook and either one king or two queen-sized beds. Even the bathrooms, with spacious solar heated rain showers and organic amenities, offer views of the rainforest and ocean. Lapa Premier suites are ideal for 2 adults. There is the option to connect these two suites as well through a door on the terraces.
Architectural rendering of Premier Lapa Suites.
How to sell Lapa Rios? The natural beauty of the destination is so unique and the wildlife so remarkable, we think it is worth including in every itinerary. For an epic adventure, consider pairing it with Pacuare Lodge and combining the two via helicopter. For a trip that starts wild and finishes luxe, we like Lapa with Kurà. And if you want to include Panama, Isla Palenque makes a great add-on to follow Lapa Rios with a private island of abundant beaches. Contact reservaciones@laparios.com for availability + assistance with logistics and a complete itinerary within Costa Rica.
Fundacion Bahia de Portobelo - The Heart of El Otro Lado Private Retreat
El Otro Lado is far more than a luxury hotel on Panama’s Caribbean Coast. In fact, El Otro Lado’s owner originally built the hotel to complement the nonprofit Bahia de Portobelo Foundation, highlight the music, art and unique Afro-Panamanian “Congo” culture of Portobelo’s talented residents, and share this magical place with the world. Read more about the “Why” behind El Otro Lado and the Fundacion Bahia de Portobelo.
Fundacion Bahia de Portobelo -
The Heart of El Otro Lado
El Otro Lado Private Retreat definitely has a soul; when you first arrive on property you sense it in every thoughtful detail. Whimsical furniture, local Congo artwork highlighting nature and human connection, splashes of bright color everywhere and an amazing curated playlist of Latin and Afro Caribbean music from the archives of Gladys Palmera combine to assure the guests “Here is a place that knows how to celebrate the beauty of life without taking itself too seriously. “
But to discover the heart of El Otro Lado, one must venture across the bay and join Mama Ari - town matriarch and custodian of Congo* culture - on the Cultural Walking Tour of Portobelo. This humble town was once the most important shipping & trade port in the Americas during Spanish colonial times and is full of history and stories. In addition to visiting the UNESCO fortifications that guarded the town from attacking pirates, guests are welcomed into the homes of local people and participate in the programs of Fundacion Bahia de Portobelo which promotes, preserves and celebrates the unique cultural heritage of Portobelo’s people while encouraging social and economic development.
The nonprofit Fundacion Bahia de Portobelo is the passion project of three women; Aurora Eleta, the owner of El Otro Lado, her sister Alejandra Fierro Eleta (aka Gladys Palmera ) and their cousin Sandra Eleta, one of Panama’s most famous photographers. They each fell in love with the richness & magic of Portobelo - on Panama’s bohemian Caribbean coast - called the “other side” by residents of Panama City. In and around Portobelo, rainforest, mangroves, the Caribbean Sea, legends of pirates and the proud history of the rebel Congo people merge to form an area that is incredibly rich in biodiversity, culture and artistic expression. From the delicate woodwork of carpenters, the bold colors and nature themes in Congo paintings, the interpretative dance and songs of young local Congo performers, to the pulsating drum beats emanating along the coastline during the area’s holidays, the region is a treasure trove of Afro Caribbean art & culture.
But despite this cultural and natural richness and a historic past, Portobelo today faces many challenges. The educational and economic opportunities within the town have been minimal; government provided healthcare is inadequate and social services have been lacking.
Diosamary Loré, Director of Sales at El Otro Lado, clowns around with Elian 8-year old student at the Little Rhythm School which provides local kids with free musical classes with support of the Bahia Portobelo Foundation.
To counter these inequalities, Fundacion Bahia Portobelo works to strengthen the economic, social and cultural well being of the citizens of Portobelo in a myriad of ways. With La Casa de la Cultura Congo (or just Casa Congo), the foundation operates three B&B style accommodations and a small waterfront restaurant. After touring Portobelo with Mama Ari, El Otro Lado guests enjoy a post-tour lunch here, with traditional Caribbean fare like fried conch and grilled octopus. With the Congo Culture recently receiving recognition by UNESCO, tourism is slowly growing in Portobelo and employment at Casa Congo offers local people (especially youth) valuable experience in the hospitality and food service industry, enabling them to work in El Otro Lado, venture elsewhere or start their own tourism based enterprise.
Casa Congo also features a community center, computer lab, art studio and curated art gallery displaying locally produced paintings, sculptures and furniture, photographs as well as a small museum tracing the roots of Portobelo’s inhabitants back to West Africa. All proceeds from gallery sales go directly to the artisans - both the skilled carvers & furniture makers in the local Carpentry Workshop (based onsite at El Otro Lado) and the painters - enabling them to make art a sustainable profession. Local artists also lead informal art classes for guests of El Otro Lado, introducing guests to elements of the Congo style and encouraging them to let their imagination run free in creating their own pieces.
A local artist leads a painting class at El Otro Lado, a fun experience for adults and children alike.
Mary, once a student at La Escuelita del Ritmo, went on to study music at UC Berkley and has since returned to Portobelo to continue developing the school’s musical programs.
Across the street from the gallery, a blue building houses the foundation’s La Escuelita del Ritmo, where local children receive free music instruction in a variety of instruments, ranging from singing to African drumming to guitar to trombone & saxophone. Originally envisioned as an after school program to keep children off the streets, the Little Rhythm School is now the hottest ticket in town (100% of the town’s youth participate in the program) and a great source of pride for Portobelo. The immensely talented youth troupe has performed for visiting ambassadors, presidents and dignitaries to Panama, and the most gifted individuals are eligible for music scholarships to UC Berkley. A former student & scholarship recipient, Mary, has returned to the school as a teacher and recently launched a music program for very young toddlers.
Guests of El Otro Lado can join the students in a percussion class or enjoy a musical performance at the property, a fully participatory experience that draws even the most reluctant dancer into the fray. It’s incredible to watch child-prodigies like 8-year Elian (below) come out of his shy shell and improvise on stage.
Lastly, to experience Congo Culture at its most raw and real, visit Portobelo just after Easter during the annual Congo Festival (which alternates each year between La Fiesta de los Diablos y Congos and the Fiesta de Conga Pollera). Every year in March or April thousands of visitors gather to watch local performers celebrate the resistance of the Cimarrones, formerly enslaved Africans during the Spanish colonial period who escaped to the surrounding rainforest and established free communities. Dressed in wild & elaborate homemade costumes and masks, the actors tell the story of the Cimarrones who assisted English privateers like Francis Drake and pirates like Henry Morgan to successfully sabotage Spanish colonial trade vessels. Using these partnerships as leverage, the Cimarrones negotiated with the Spanish (the Devils) to have their freedom recognized and established themselves as “Congos”, the name their descendants proudly use to this day to recognize their African roots and unique Panamanian story.
The Fundacion Bahia Portobelo funds the annual Congo festival, which includes performances by La Escuelito del Ritmo and highlights the work of many local artists.
Congo Festival performers dressed as Cimarrones (seated) and Diablos (the Spanish colonists.)
FAM Trip Highlights from Ecuador and Panama
Highlights from our May and June FAM trips to our properties in Ecuador and Panama.
FAM Trip Highlights from Ecuador and Panama
In May and June we led FAM trips to our properties in Ecuador and Panama. Clark escorted a group of 11 travel professionals to Casa Gangotena, Mashpi, Galapagos Safari Camp and Hacienda Zuleta in Ecuador while Kirsten led a group of industry 7 veterans to both sides of Panama with stays at El Otro Lado on the Caribbean Coast and Isla Palenque on the Pacific side. Shout out to Monica Irauzqui of YAMPU tours for being our frequent flyer as she attended both FAM trips! Read on for some trip highlights and photos.
Want to join us next year? Drop us a line a clark@clarkkotula.com
Ecuador Fam Recap - May 2019, 9 Nights
The 2019 Ecuador Crew (from L to R): Laurel Perry of Ciao Bambino, Danielle Diaz of Scott Dunn USA, Katy Lotz of MayaMaya Travel, Barbara Davidson of Kensington Tours, Monica Irauzqui of Yampu Tours, Sarah Groen of Bell & Bly (Brownell), Jessica Hart of Travel by Hart (Brownell), Shana Mandel of The Local Foreigner, Michele MacDonald of Core Traveler, Lindsay Schou of Landed Travel, Anna Sizer or Ciao Bambino.
“I knew that a trip to Ecuador would be interesting, but I was truly blown away by all that the country has to offer. Even after 2 weeks, I didn't want to leave! The diversity of the regions, from the city to the cloud forest to the Galapagos and the Andes, is so vast and there is so much to do and learn in each place. The properties that Clark represents are incredible, and learning the backstory about each, how they all began and the work they are doing to preserve Ecuador and showcase its beauty is remarkable. I was always impressed how Clark would tell us about certain aspects of a property prior to arriving, and then not only would we get to see or experience what he mentioned, but it was always so unique and made me feel that "OHHH yes, now I really get it," feeling. I must have felt that about 50 times during the 10 days. I loved how active and in touch with nature this trip was, and I cannot wait to send more clients, and myself again, to Ecuador!” - K Lotz, Maya Maya Travel
“When I help families plan travel, I don't sell a room or a widget, I offer them a memorable experience that will be a part of their family's precious and short time together. Clark Kotula's FAM trip offered a sampling of many great experiences that we can offer to our clients for their adventures. Clark took time to describe and feel the soul and unique elements of each property and then helped us understand which clients would be the right fit for each property and activity.” A. Sizer, Cioa Bambino
“Clark did a great job of organizing this FAM, everything was perfect! We had adventures, tons of laughs, felt like we got to know the properties intimately, and Clark gave us all the sales details we needed. It was also very meaningful to have Michael (owner of Galapagos Safari Camp) and Fernando (owner of Hacienda Zuleta) there with us while at their properties. I feel like a true insider now.” - M. Irauzqui, YAMPU
“This was one of the best FAM trips I have ever been on. Clark is one of the most well respected representatives in the travel industry and spending time with him on this trip showed me why. There is a reason why he represents every property, he has an intimate connection with each place, and chooses places that are not the norm in most destinations. I didn't just fall in love with each property, but felt I was offered insider access to the people that run each place that will pay off for my clients. Before this trip, I essentially thought of Ecuador as "The Galapagos" and a "cruise destination" - the perception most of our clients have, but my eyes were opened to the true Ecuador which offers a dizzying array of experiences when put together. From the colonial grandeur of Quito, to the magic of the cloud forest, to a side of the Galapagos I never knew existed, to Hacienda Zuleta which I now feel is a mandatory inclusion for anyone is coming to Ecuador - I'll never sell the destination the same going forward. “ - Anonymous trip participant
Panama Fam Trip - June 2019, 6 Nights
The 2019 Panama Crew (from L to R): Turney Maurer of Latin Excursions, Diosamary Lore of El Otro Lado, Joe Sandillo of Almaz Journeys, Jose Irauzqui of Yampu Tours, Jonathan Borgida of Southern Explorations, Susan Bruce of Susan Bruce Travel, affiliated with Tafari Travel, Kirsten Gardner of Clark Kotula Representation, Monica Irauzqui of Yampu Tours, Carolyn Consalvo of Andrew Harper Travel
Loved El Otro Lado - it is so easy to sell what that it was so close to Panama City and the boat ride was so short and easy. It's easy to incorporate El Otro into itineraries and flights departing in the afternoon. The staff were incredible and got the sense that they really enjoyed working there and respected El Otro Lado’s owner. They went out of there way for you and were on it. What really sold me was the art, music, individuality of each room and the little touches everywhere. The art class was a highlight for me. - Jonathan Borgida, Southern Explorations
Clark Kotula Representation and Sales Support -- the name says it all ! The hotels they represent (El Otro Lado and Isla Palenque) offer barefoot luxury, unique settings and truly immerse travelers into Panama's culture and natural beauty. My fam trip to Panama with Kirsten was 'sales support' at it's finest. With a thoughtfully organized itinerary, that included extraordinary hotels, delicious meals and activities -- the knowledge I've gained and the contacts I made at each hotel will help me in selling Panama with confidence. - Anonymous Trip Participant
Both properties were outstanding. Isla Palenque was a destination that made me feel detached from society and surrounded by wildlife completely. At El Otro Lado, the Congo culture mixed with Spanish settlement and pirate invasions was an amazing experience – unlike anything I ever expected – inspiring and unique! The staff of each property was what really made the difference. From the guides, bartenders, chefs, to general managers, I felt nothing but respect and welcome arms at each property. - Anonymous Trip Participant
Originally I had viewed Panama as a possible extension for my clients going to Colombia, but this trip showed me different ways to talk about it as a stand alone destination. Kirsten & Clark, you guys are really a delight to work with - your knowledge of the destinations and properties and the generosity with which you share it have been invaluable to me selling your properties (which in turn really helps me grow our business).
Joe Sandillo, Almaz Journeys
Elian, an 8-year old student at La Escuelita del Ritmo in Portobelo, demonstrates what he’s learned from the school’s free music classes.
Awasi Atacama : New Rooms, Property Layout and Images
Awasi has made two major changes to their Atacama property that will be hugely beneficial to both travel professionals and guests.
A unified property layout and five new rooms which brings the total number of rooms from 9 to 12.
Awasi Atacama :
New Rooms, Property Layout and Images
The new unified property layout at Awasi Atacama
Awasi has made two major changes to their Atacama property that will be hugely beneficial to both travel professionals and guests.
A unified property layout and five new rooms which brings the total number of rooms from 9 to 12.
Previously, the property was bisected by a road, with five suites and the common areas on one side, and the remaining four rectangular suites on the other side. Awasi managed to purchase a large plot of land adjacent to the main portion of the property and have built five new superior circular suites. This layout has unified the property all onto one piece of land, with the guest rooms all located around the pool and common areas. The room categories are simplified with only two options; Round Rooms (430 sq ft) and Superior Round Rooms (750 sq ft) - the Rectangular Suite category no longer exists.
The additional room total being brought from 9 up to 12 should help with the always difficult availability issues at this most sought after property in the Atacama.
The Atacama Desert in Chile is a year round destination, with high season running from October through April. The high season in the Atacama does not have to do with this being a particularly better time to visit the Atacama weather wise, there are simply more visitors to Chile over these months because national parks further south in Patagonia close during the Austral winter months of May through September, and therefore there is less demand in the Atacama as a result. Awasi Atacama has a fantastic promotion over their low season (May-September) offering an additional night free for any booking of three nights or longer. There are also discounts in combining Awasi Atacama, Awasi Patagonia and Awasi Iguazu in the same itinerary.
All sales and marketing links for Awasi Atacama can be found on the property page. All current promotions can be found on the promotions section of the website.
Enjoy some new images of the five new suites at Awasi Atacama and the stunning scenery from photographer Luciano Bacchi below.
Private Homes & Full Buyouts: Unique Options in Latin America
An overview of private homes and larger suites within the Clark Kotula Representation Collection. Perfect for families, groups of friends and private buyouts.
Private Homes & Full Buyouts: Unique Options in Latin America
While we don’t currently represent any standalone, independent villas in our collection, several of our properties have either a multi-room suite or a private home on site that is ideal for exclusive use by a group of friends or a multigenerational family. And in a few cases, the small nature of a particular property also lends itself to private takeover. Following is a quick overview of these options within the Clark Kotula Representation Collection.
Master Villa Deck at Awasi Iguazu
The Master Villas at Awasi Patagonia & Awasi Iguazu
Best For: An Epic Family Trip Combining Two Iconic South America Destinations
Occupancy: 4 people total
Ideal for families with older children (minimum age is 10) or two couples traveling together, the Master Villas at Awasi Patagonia and Awasi Iguazu and boast two separate en suite bedrooms, a spacious living room and a large balconies. Awasi Patagonia includes an extra large soaking hot tub while Awasi Iguazu has a plus size plunge pool for refreshing dip in the rainforest.
Room Configuration: Each Master Suite has one bedroom with king bed and one bedroom with twin beds.
Awasi Patagonia Master Suite Layout
Awasi Iguazu Master Suite Layout (page 12)
Price: Awasi Patagonia - From $13,200 for a three night stay for 4, all inclusive
Awasi Iguazu - From $7160 for a two-night stay for four, all inclusive
Unique Selling Points: A private guide and 4x4 vehicle is allocated to the Master Villa, so you can choose what to do and when while exploring the most iconic Patagonia national park; “Torres del Paine”, or venturing far beyond the Falls at Awasi Iguazu, where the possibilities are endless. A family will have their own private guide and 4x4 vehicle at their beck and call to explore the falls, go on kayak and hiking excursions seeking out nature and wildlife as well as visit with local Guarani communities for cultural interaction.
Combining the 2 or 3 of Awasi’s lodges (Atacama, Patagonia, Iguazu Falls) utilizing the master suites makes for one of the most epic family trips in South America imaginable and offers guests additional savings over staying at just one property. See all AWASI COMBO PROMOTIONS here
Feel small at Estancia Cristina, surrounded by Patagonia’s soaring, jagged peaks
Cabin Buyout at Estancia Cristina, Argentine Patagonia
Best For: This most remote and wild of Patagonian outposts appeals to travelers with a pioneering spirit (like the Masters family, owners of historical Estancia Cristina) who want to spend their days hiking and exploring from dawn till dusk but be cozy and comfortable at night.
Occupancy: 2 per room or 8 adults per intact cabin.
Room Configuration: Estancia Cristina’s 20 rooms are distributed among 5 individual building, each with 4 private ensuite bedrooms off a shared living room. Rooms are configured as either two twin beds or one king bed, and can be booked together as an intact house for 8. See CABIN LAYOUT here
Price: From $8600 for a two night stay for 8 people, all inclusive
Unique Selling Points: Hike your heart out far from the maddening crowds of Perito Moreno (and increasingly, El Chalten as well) to see the largest glacier spilling off the Southern Patagonia Ice Cap, the Upsala, and get a taste of Patagonia’s pioneer history at this authentic outpost established by English immigrants in 1914. Horseback riding and fly fishing are also a draw.
One of two Suites at Hacienda Bambusa, overlooking the gardens and pool
Hacienda Bambusa: Rustic Farmhouse in Colombia’s Coffee Country
Best For: Exclusive buyouts. Round up between 7 to 15 of your closest friends and make Hacienda Bambusa your private home base for an immersive getaway in Colombia’s Coffee Country that is well off the trodden tourist path.
Occupancy: 19 total: 16 adults, 3 children
Room Configuration: 8 ensuite bedrooms with 300-550 sq. ft. of indoor and outdoor living space (3 standard, 3 Superior, 2 Suites). See ROOM DESCRIPTION document for complete details on each room. The three Superior Rooms can accommodate an extra bed for a child.
Price: From $2,000 per night for the 8 rooms
Unique Selling Points: Hacienda Bambusa is a delightful rustic farmhouse surrounded by fields of banana, coffee and cacao. The highlight here is the wealth of experiences that are at your fingertips, and the warm hospitality of being welcomed into a beloved family home, which starts with Hacienda Bambusa’s on-site managing director, Diego. Bambusa is an excellent option for an artist, writer or a yoga retreat; Colombia has gifted the world with an inspiring array of creatives, from Gabriela Garcia Marquez to Botero, and Hacienda Bambusa has its own in owner Santiago Montoya, one of Colombia’s best known contemporary artists.
Galapagos Safari Camp owners stand with their children on the terrace of the 3-room family suite
Family Suite at Galapagos Safari Camp
Best For: Families - this non-tented option is great for parents who prefer to have their little ones under the same roof, or a small multigenerational group.
Occupancy: 6 people
Room Configuration: One king bedded master bedroom and two twin bedded rooms, all interconnected. See all FAMILY SUITE photos here.
Price: From $25,320 for a 6day/5night family safari including accommodations, meals and guided excursions.
Unique Selling Points: If you value flexibility (so important when traveling with kids) and the option to be privately guided, a land “based” exploration of the Galapagos with the Galapagos Safari Camp might be for you. Utilizing the three bedroom family suite and charting smaller day yachts for explorations of the Galapagos islands and its wildlife by day is the perfect family trip for children of all ages.
Terrace views from the upper floor at Casa Grande
Casa Grande at El Otro Lado, Portobelo on Panama’s Caribbean Coast
Best For: Multigenerational Families or Private Buyout of Entire Resort.
El Otro Lado on Panama’s Caribbean Coast was originally conceived as a private retreat away from the big city for owner Aurora Eleta and her extended family, so the colorful & whimsical rooms are uniquely configured to accommodate families and multigenerational groups. Casa Grande Suites on the second floor open to a wide shared veranda with sweeping vies of Bahia Portobelo and downstairs blends open air and enclosed AC living spaces large enough to accommodate groups for meals.
Occupancy: 10 people in Casa Grande (6 adults, 4 children/teens) or 16 adults, 6 children/teens for Full Resort Buyout.
Room Configuration: Casa Grande: Suite 2 (2 queen beds downstairs, 2 twin beds in the loft), Suite 3
(Fixed King bed downstairs, 2 twin beds in the loft) Suite 4 (Two queen beds)
Full Resort: Casa Grande + Forest House (fixed king), Sea House (fixed king), Sun House
(fixed king + rollaway bed), Spirit House ( 2 king beds + rollaway bed)
Price: From $2,300/night for Casa Grande and $6,400/night for Full Resort. Includes meals, local boat transfers, select guided on-site activities & cultural experiences + daily Rustic Beach Club. Click here for BUYOUT RATES
Unique Selling Points: The rustic beach club at tropical Puerto Frances is a nice bonus, but the main attraction here is the vibrant creativity of the local Congo people, Afro-Panamanians descended from the Cimarrons. It seems that every resident of Portobelo was born with an artistic gift, and guests can share in their dancing, painting styles, percussion and singing through workshops with the Bahia Portobelo Foundation - all exceptional experiences for families. This nonprofit predates El Otro Lado and was founded by the Eleta Family to enable the local residents to showcase and share their culture with a larger audience.
Villa Estate with private pool at Isla Palenque
Villa Estate at Isla Palenque, Panama’s Gulf of Chiriquí
Best For: Two larger families traveling together or a multigenerational family group. A wild, tropical island just off of Panama’s undeveloped Pacific Coast, bohemian Isla Palenque is a laid back rustic beach retreat for nature lovers and anti-resorters.
Occupancy: Up to 14 total: 12 adults and 2 children or teens
Room Configuration: Click here for VILLA ESTATE LAYOUT. Two Master Suites (Fixed King + extra bed for two adults and 1 child or teen), three Jungle Rooms (1 fixed queen/jungle views) and 1 Garden Room (smallest room with a fixed queen) are spread across three levels, accessed via stairs
Price: From $3050 per night for 12 adults, inclusive of meals, roundtrip boat transfers between Isla Palenque and Boca Chica, on-island guided excursions, yoga and use of SUPs & kayaks.
Unique Selling Points: A private retreat to share meals, play games or enjoy the private beach and pool as an entire family group, but still enough space to escape and find privacy. The Villa Estate enables guests to participate in all of the excursions and amenities offered on the island and mingle with other travelers staying in the Beachfront Casitas. Fully catered meals in the Villa (lunch and dinner) + privately guided excursions are available for an additional supplement.
Inkaterra's Jungle Lodges - What's the difference between Reserva Amazonica and Hacienda Concepcion??
All three lodges are located in the Southern Peruvian Amazon region of Madre de Dios, and sit along the river of the same name. These lodges are most often visited as a first stop after arriving in Lima, and before going to Cusco, or visited after spending time in the Cusco area, and before returning to Lima. But there are some key differences that set them apart.
Inkaterra's Jungle Lodges
What's the difference between Reserva Amazonica and Hacienda Concepcion?
Inkaterra operates two very similar jungle lodges in the SouthEastern Peruvian Amazon, and people often ask what are the major differences between them.
The two main lodges are:
Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica
Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion
*Inkaterra also operates the Guides Field Station, which I will not be covering in this article but more information can be found via this LINK.
LOCATION AND ACCESS
Canoes used for river transportation, here tied up at Hacienda Concepcion during sunrise
All three lodges are located in the Southern Peruvian Amazon region of Madre de Dios, and sit along the river of the same name. Guests going to any of the lodges fly into Puerto Maldonado airport (PEM) which receives multiple daily direct flights from Lima (90 minutes) and Cusco (40 minutes). So these lodges are most often visited as a first stop after arriving in Lima, and before going to Cusco, or visited after spending time in the Cusco area, and before returning to Lima.
Once guests land at Puerto Maldonado, they will be met by staff of the respective lodge they are going to and driven about 15 minutes through Puerto Maldonado to the river pier. Here guests will board specialized motorized dugout canoes for the ride downstream on the Madre de Dios River to their lodge.
Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion is the first lodge reached, on the right river bank, only about 25 minutes downstream of Puerto Maldonado. Another 10 minutes downstream or 35 minute travel time total, on the opposite, left river bank, is Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica. Then a further 10 minutes downstream from Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica (or 45 minutes total from Puerto Maldonado) on the same left river bank is Inkaterra Guides Field Station. Below is a map of the area noting the locations of both Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion and Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, and the various excursions in the area.
PRICE POINT AND CLIENT PROFILE
Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica was the original and still is the flagship of the three lodges, it is the most expensive and the most comfortable of the three in terms of services offered and onsite amenities.
Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion is slightly less in cost than Reserva Amazonica, and varies somewhat in the services and amenities offered, but has unique attributes that might attract certain guests to stay there instead of Reserva Amazonica regardless of the lower price point.
LODGE SETTINGS AND ACCOMMODATION CHARACTERISTICS
The beautiful main lodge at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica
All lodges are built in traditional jungle style of wooden beams, thatched roofs, dark hardwood flooring and are screened in with ceiling fans, there is no air conditioning, you are not hermetically sealed away from the rainforest you have come to experience. The lodges are all off the grid, so are powered by generators that run from 5am to 3pm and then from 5:30pm to 11pm to provide light and ventilation by ceiling fans. There is hot water in all the rooms run on a solar/gas system.
Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion sits on the right riverbank and is a short, perhaps 5 minute walk back into the rainforest from the rivers edge. So it is not on the river. It actually sits on a small cocha (Lake) and is surrounded by thick jungle, with gravel paths connecting the Casitas (rooms) with the main lodge area, as you walk you are surrounded by rainforest. There is a lot of jungle noise here, you really feel enveloped by the rainforest at Hacienda Concepcion and a lot of people love this aspect of being “amongst it”. The Cocha (lake) attracts a lot of wildlife, such as caiman you can see swimming around and squirrel monkeys in the trees. The lodges’ location on the right bank is surrounded by the protected area of the Tambopata National Reserve, a huge tract of protected rainforest – so the immediate wildlife around this lodge is greater. This can be a blessing or a curse, as here howler monkeys often are close by and can begin their ominous roar at 4am – an amazing experience for most but an annoyance for some. There are only two options in accommodation at Hacienda Concepcion: Five simple but comfortable rooms in the main lodge which are at an entry level price point, or 25 individual cabanas in the forest and along the lakes edge. These casitas are all the same and there are no suites, or varying categories. The main lodge is a two story beautiful and typical building, with the dining room and bar below and upstairs a spacious open lounge. A small spa with two massage rooms is under construction and should be ready by August 2019; meanwhile massage therapies are provided in room until completion.
Here you can take a video tour of the Casitas at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion.
A Superior Rio Cabana at night at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica
Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica is a further 5 minutes down the river from Concepcion and sits on the opposite riverbank. The lodge and some cabanas are riverfront, others front the jungle, and the grounds are more manicured, you are not deep in the jungle as you are at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion. Green grass with landscaped trees dots the property and lovely tree stump paths connect the main lodge to the cabanas. The main lodge is a very grand structure, with high vaulted ceilings – downstairs for dining and the bar with cute little sitting areas, and up above a terrace with more private places to sit and read books or play games. There is a great little boutique shop at Reserva Amazonica and the wonderful, totally renovated Ena Spa facing the river. So Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica has more of a “resort” feel to it compared the true “jungle lodge” feeling of Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion. Apart from prolific birdlife, and the occasional Agouti which ventures out from the forest edge, you may also see capuchin or squirrel monkeys right at the lodge treetops, but seldom howlers.
The major difference in accommodations here are that there are 4 different categories of “Cabanas” to choose from, with the Cabanas running in four parallel lines back from the riverbank. There are 24 “Superior” Cabanas and 8 “Superior Rio” Cabanas, these Cabanas are exactly the same in size and layout, only that the Superior Rio Cabanas are right along the riverbank whereas the regular Superior Cabanas are set back a bit from the river in two parallel rows. Set back against the jungles edge are two Suite categories; 1 Amazonica Suite and 2 Tambopata Suites which have private plunge pools.
You can take a video tour of the property and the various room categories here:
EXCURSIONS
The excursions from each lodge overlap a lot, with slight variances from each.
In general, Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica offers al a carte excursions where guests choose what they want to do over their stay - subject to climate conditions, whereas at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion they offer fixed programs of 3d/2n up to 5d/4n. So there is more flexibility at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica but the programmed itineraries at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion are fantastic and fit in the highlights regardless. Canoeing up Gamitana Creek for Pirahna Fishing, excursions to Inkaterra Canopy Walkway and to Lake Sandoval are done from both properties.
Canoeing up Gamitana Creek for Piranha fishing, done from both properties
One difference is that each lodge has its own trail network surrounding it, so generally the naturalist led walks will take place at the property in which you are staying. Wildlife may be a bit better on the trail networks around Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion but the variance in terrain is better at Reserva as they have dry forest, flooded forest, etc. Concepcion has their own Cocha (Lake) to explore by canoe and Reserva has a wetland walk on their property which isn’t available at Concepcion. Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion was at once a Cacao Plantation and a Brazil Nut Farm so those are activities onsite at Concepcion, but guests from Reserva Amazonica can also access them.
Overall wildlife spotting is going to be the same for each as it is often on the excursions away from the properties where the wildlife is seen the most.
You can access the excursion booklet for Reserva Amazonica HERE.
You can access the excursion booklet for Hacienda Concepcion HERE.
SUMMARY
You can’t go wrong staying at either lodge for a fantastic Amazon experience.
In summary, if price is an issue, Hacienda Concepcion has lower rate options. If price is not an issue, then visitors may prefer Reserva Amazonica because it offers more amenities and room categories to choose from, in addition to the more manicured river view setting. Those that prefer Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion do so for the “in the jungle” experience and the option of seeing more wildlife right on property as opposed to when out on excursions. Reserva Amazonica might be better for those looking for some down time to chill out, whereas Concepcion might be better for more active travelers. The standard cabanas at each property are very comparable in size and comfort to each other, Reserva Amazonica offers upgraded suites and Concepcion offers a more basic room option from their cabanas. Food service at both properties is comparable, with the presentation leaning slightly towards Reserva Amazonica.
A drone’s eye view of Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica along the banks of the Madre de Dios River
Return to Nicaragua and Jicaro Island Lodge
In early April of 2019 I spent a week in Nicaragua with a good friend from college. Using Jicaro Island Lodge as our base, we planned day trips around Granada, Mombacho and Masaya. Here, I share my thoughts on revisiting Jicaro Island, traveler safety in Nicaragua following political unrest in 2018, and the moral dilemma of “should you go?”
Return to Jicaro Island Lodge
In early April of 2019 I spent a week in Nicaragua with a good friend from college. Using Jicaro Island Lodge as our base, we planned day trips around Granada, Mombacho and Masaya.
What would Nicaragua feel like to a visitor now, one year later? Is it safe? Should one travel there? Some form of these questions arrive in my inbox several times each week and the most honest way to answer was to revisit myself. Following are answers to some of the most frequent queries that I receive about Nicaragua and Jicaro Island.
Hiking on Mombacho Volcano, overlooking the Isletas de Granada and Lake Nicaragua.
Is Nicaragua Safe for Tourists?
Without hesitation, yes, tourists can safely travel within the country and have been for some time, since Canada the UK and most EU member nations removed their travel warnings several months ago. In fact, Jicaro Island Lodge was mostly full during our stay; we shared the island with couples from Costa Rica, the UK, Toronto, New York and a family with teenagers from Kentucky.
The only snafu we encountered was on our arrival day and it was the fault of Spirit Airlines (and my friend for opting to book Spirit Airlines, but I suppose that everyone has to learn that lesson once.) Jicaro Island took care of all of our transfers, adjusted plans to compensate for Spirit’s failings and arranged several days of guided touring. In Granada, lingering hints of last year still faintly exist in the form of a quieter town and “cerrado” signs hanging on some of the bars and stores that catered exclusively to tourist crowds. But the market and main square were bustling and vendors were eager to banter, show off their carving skills or have you sample their special version of Vigorón. On our requisite visit to the bell tower in Iglesia La Merced, we took in the views over the town’s colonial rooftops with a group of middle schoolers from Masaya and posed for several selfies.
Serene lake views from the pool deck at Jicaro Island Lodge.
Masaya’s Lava Lake
Who Should Go to Nicaragua?
Even before last year, Nicaragua was a delightfully raw “un sanitized” travel experience, especially when compared to Costa Rica’s tourist-focused Guanacaste region just across the border. From the wildly painted chicken buses following their own rules of the road to the frequently seen vaqueros herding livestock down dirt paths and across fields, traveling through Nicaragua reminds you that you’re far from home. There aren’t too many other places in the world where one can drive nearly to the edge of an active volcano and gaze down into a boiling lava lake, sand board down the side of a volcano, join an entire town in passionately cheering on the local baseball team and surf epic waves without battling crowds of other tourists, all in a long weekend .
But you don’t have to be a thrill seeker to appreciate Nicaragua. Jicaro Island is a wonderful place to disconnect and recharge; from quiet mornings with coffee and birdsong to yoga classes near the Cenote and Spanish practice with Jicaro’s encouraging staff, there are many ways to slow down but still richly engage with and soak in the destination. Travel Advisor Sarah Groen of Bell & Bly Travel Design (an affiliate of Brownell Travel) suggested it as the perfect country for Spanish-language immersion, after living with a family in Leon and studying Spanish herself a few years ago.
And of course there is an economic incentive; Nicaragua is very affordable, even in high season.
Why Stay on Jicaro Island Instead of in Granada?
Of all the Cayuga Collection properties, Jicaro holds a special place for me as it perplexed me the most prior to my initial visit; why would anyone stay out on an island “treehouse” in the middle of Lake Nicaragua instead of within Colonial Granada? Experiencing the property for the first time was an ah-ha moment; after a hot day of hiking, horseback riding or walking the dusty and busy streets of Granada, the breezy fifteen minute boat ride through the Isletas transports you to a private island oasis, perfectly positioned to showcase amazing sunsets over Mombacho Volcano. Friendly staff appear out of nowhere with new tropical refreshment and a cool towel that you didn’t know you wanted. And the food - Jicaro’s menu is an amazing highlight in Central America! If you’ve been, you know.
Rather than visiting Las Isletas de Granada for a ½ day cruise (a popular excursion from Granada), a stay at Jicaro allows travelers to live among the tiny fishing communities that have inhabited these islands for centuries. On a SUP or kayak paddle among the neighboring islands you’ll encounter fisherman tossing traditional circular nets into the lake and children rowing their blue and red boats to their school, which guests of Jicaro are welcome to visit for themselves.
Neighbors on Jicaro Island
Since partnering with the Padre Nello School several years ago, Jicaro Island Lodge and their guests have funded the installation of a water treatment system (that provides clean drinking water for 600 people in the surrounding communities), solar panels to provide electricity to the classrooms and countless school supplies. When tourists stopped coming last year, Jicaro Island Lodge’s owner Karen Emmanuel paid out of pocked to keep as many staff employed as possible and ensure that Jicaro’s projects with the local community received continued financial support.
Arge, just one of the amazing people at Jicaro Island, is an aspiring photographer and a creative mixologist.
What is there to do on Jicaro Island?
While the island is small with only nine “treehouse” casitas on stilts ringing its exterior, it packs a lot in. (See an aerial map of Jicaro Island) Yoga classes are offered complementary every morning, staff regularly host informal Spanish lessons, cooking & cocktail classes and at reception you’ll find a well-stocked selection of games, from giant Jenga to backgammon, chess and Monopoly, as well as birding books and binoculars. SUPs and kayaks are always available for guest use and the floating dock is a marvelous place to sunbathe and swim if you prefer the lake to Jicaro’s pool.
The Jicaro Island Tour Book is a great resource for guided excursions on the lake, in Granada and beyond. With a four night stay we walked Granada’s colorful streets and central market, hiked through the multitude of microclimates ringing Mombacho Volcano, visited the artisan pottery village of San Juan de Oriente (tried – and failed – to throw a pot on a wheel powered only by kicking), sampled traditional Easter sweets and learned about the folkloric dance traditions in Masaya town and of course gazed into Masaya Volcano’s churning lava lake at dusk. A fifth night would have been optimal to spend allow a full day to just chill on the island and make use of the water colors we packed.
Natural pigments and hand carved details are hallmarks of San Juan de Oriente’s unique style of pottery.
I always recommend that travel advisors combine Jicaro Island with Rancho Santana on Nicaragua’s southern coast. The two properties are perfect complements to each other. Begin with a few days at Jicaro to explore the volcanos, lakes and colonial towns near Lake Nicaragua then finish with 3 or 4 nights at the beach, or vice versa.
What’s the Deal with Altitude Sickness in Peru, and How to Avoid It?
Want to know about altitude sickness in Peru from someone who spent 10 years guiding there? This blog shares my personal experience, advice on what to expect, and preventative measures you can take for yourself and your clients.
What’s the deal with altitude sickness in Peru,
and how to avoid it?
I spent the better part of ten years living in Cusco and guiding hundreds of visitor through the Andes. The people I guided came from all walks of life, were of all ages, and spanned every fitness level from “never been hiking and have two knee replacements” to “I run a marathon every other week.” So, I’ve personally experienced about all that can be experienced when it comes to travelers dealing with the challenges of altitude in Peru.
Altitude issues in Peru is a major worry for most first time visitors, and “how will altitude affect my trip/affect my client’s trip” is the the most frequently asked question I receive. This blog shares my personal experience, advice on what to expect, and preventative measures you can take. But do note that this is not from a medical professional’s point of view, but from a practical sense as experienced during my years of guiding.
First, most people ask, “will I get altitude sickness?”. The straight answer to that is, “I don’t know, and neither will you, until you are there.” I’ve had guests as young as 3 and as old as 83 on trips, age doesn’t seem to matter. I guided an ultra-marathon runner who was used to running up to 120 miles at a time, ate a perfect natural diet and he was utterly destroyed from arrival until departure with altitude sickness. On the other end, I’ve guided many “party dudes” who insisted on lighting up a cigarette and seeking out a beer the moment they disembarked at Cusco’s 12,000ft rarified altitude, and suffered no ill effects whatsoever. So really, altitude sickness is indiscriminate, and effects every single person differently. You’ll never know how you fare until you get there.
But that doesn’t mean you should pour yourself a snifter of brandy, light up a cigar and leave it in the hands of the Pachamama. There are certain things you can, and should do, prior to your trip, and during your trip, to “stack the deck” in your favor. Let me elaborate on a few of them:
1) Intelligent itinerary design.
Just as people who climb Everest make their ascent slowly, and incrementally increase their altitude over time, a well-planned itinerary in Peru should do the same. Start low and end high. The graphic below from Inkaterra is an excellent one which shows the major points of interest in Peru and their respective altitudes. Here are the main visitor sites in ascending order:
Lima: Sea Level
Amazon: 600ft (183 meters)
Machu Picchu: 6,627 feet (2020 meters)
Arequipa: 7,600 feet (2,315 meters)
Sacred Valley: 9,776 feet (2,980 meters)
Cusco: 11,152 ft (3,400 meters)
Lake Titicaca and Puno: 12,500 feet (3,810 meters)
Since most everyone coming to Peru will be visiting Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu – let me use that as an example. To get to Machu Picchu (which people are always surprised to learn is actually quite low in elevation and in the subtropical cloud forest) you must fly from Lima at sea level to the airport in Cusco at 11,100 feet. This is a huge jump in altitude in just a one hour flight. It’s generally not the best to land and sleep in Cusco as a first stop. It’s better to land in Cusco, and then get down to Machu Picchu at 6,600 feet by vehicle and train in one day. Or arrive in Cusco and take the one hour drive into the Sacred Valley to spend your first few nights at 9,776ft which is much easier to acclimate at than at the height of Cusco. It puts less strain on your body. For every thousand feet of increased altitude, the amount of oxygen in the air decreases exponentially, thus increasing the likelihood of experiencing altitude sickness. This is especially true after crossing 10,000ft elevation. So head first to Machu Picchu or the Sacred Valley, then come back to enjoy Cusco once your body is better acclimated from the time spent at a lower elevation in the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.
As another alternative, you could choose to make a stop in Arequipa or go to the Amazon basin as a first stop on your trip before tackling the higher elevations. And if you plan to do Lake Titicaca, make sure you do this as a last stop on the trip as it is one of the highest places most visitors to Peru go and the one where people are more likely to have issues.
2) The First 24 Hours is Vital
I know people are excited to land and hit the ground running in this beautiful and exotic destination, but if you can, force yourself to build in a rest day without anything planned on the day you arrive at altitude. It’s the single best thing you can do for yourself and will set you up for a wonderful trip in the days ahead. When confronted with altitude, your body must work extremely hard to build up more white blood cells to carry more oxygen. So let your body do this and don’t put any additional strain on it than absolutely necessary. Get to where you are going, and lay down to read a book, take a nap, watch some TV, or whatever, so long as you are moving your body as little as possible.
The air at elevation is also quite dry and your body needs to be hydrated to build up the white blood cells. Drink a TON of non-carbonated, non-alcoholic and non-caffeinated beverages in the first 24 hours and keep the intake up the whole time at altitude. You’ve probably heard of drinking “Coca Tea” in Peru, and yes it is good. I personally don’t think you are getting any therapeutic magic from the Coca leaves in acclimating, but it is a non-carbonated, non-alcoholic, and non-caffeinated herbal tea, so give it a try. Ultimately you are hydrating with it. Also your body digests food a lot slower at altitude, so digestion takes away energy from your body that it needs to acclimate. So eat small light meals that are easy to digest that first day and make sure to eat several hours before trying to sleep; a bowl of soup is perfect. If you can force yourself to do nothing the first 24 hours, drinks tons of liquids and eat light – you are doing the best thing possible to set yourself up for success, not just initially but for the entire trip. If you overexert yourself, drink alcohol and eat a huge meal – you are going to feel it, and it’s going to set you back in a major way on the road to acclimation.
3) Shall I consider taking altitude medication?
I’m not a medical doctor, but in my ten years guiding visitors at altitude in Peru I had way more negative experiences with people who arrived taking these medications than positive ones.
There is a prescription medication called Acetazolamide (brand name Diamox) that has proven effective for many at altitude. But this medication was not made for altitude, it was made for treating glaucoma. Here is why I don’t like it from a guide’s perspective: First, you need to start taking it a few days before you arrive at altitude and need to keep taking it. So you never really know or learn how your body naturally responds to altitude. Second, the medication is a diuretic, so it’s counter productive in one sense that you are trying to keep your body hydrated, but taking a medication that is making you urinate more frequently. And third, the biggest drawback I saw with many people is that there are a lot of strange side effects that the medication can produce. The main ones being tingling in the extremities, lightheadedness, and a weird metallic taste to carbonated beverages. These uncomfortable side effects often make people hyper aware of their body and thus produce anxiety for them, and make it impossible to determine if these sensations are because of the altitude, or in reaction to the medication.
If you have been to altitude before and know that your body has a terrible time with acclimating, then that is the one scenario where I think trying Diamox is a good idea. But for anyone else, building in time to acclimate naturally is the best course of action.
4) What about oxygen supplements?
There are a few hotels that market that they have “oxygen enriched” rooms. This is great if you plan to stay in your hotel the entire time while in the Andes, but is counterproductive to allowing your body to acclimate naturally if you are sleeping in a room full of additional oxygen.
Every hotel in the Andes generally has oxygen bottles at the reception desk and most tour companies have oxygen bottles in their vehicles too. These are used if someone is feeling very ill at altitude, are dizzy, can’t catch their breath or have a racing heart rate, often from overexertion on arrival. The treatment is to provide oxygen therapy of 10-15 minute increments as a boost, not to keep the mask on for hours at a time.
In summary, don’t worry about Altitude too much and certainly don’t let it put you off from coming to Peru. Millions of people every year come and very few have major issues. If you have the right itinerary planned, and take the precautions mentioned here, you are sure to have an amazing time.
Here below is a perfect itinerary in Peru, taking altitude into consideration, and staying at Inkaterra’s properties:
Day 1: Arrive Lima and overnight
Day 2: Fly from Lima to the Amazon in Puerto Maldonado to stay at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica or Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion.
Day 3: Excursion in the Amazon
Day 4: Excursions in the Amazon
Day 5: Fly to Cusco, drive to Ollantaytambo and take the train to Machu Picchu, staying at Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.
Day 6: Spend the morning enjoying the free activities on the hotel grounds of Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel (tea plantation, orchid garden, bird watching, the spectacled bear project, etc) then head up to Machu Picchu after lunch around 2pm. There are far fewer people in the afternoon than in the morning, and the light is glorious. Sunset is often more spectacular than Sunrise in my experience. Spend a second night at the Inakterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.
Day 7: Take a morning train from Machu Picchu to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. Tour the Sacred Valley and overnight at Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba.
Day 8: Additional day exploring the Sacred Valley and staying at Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba.
Day 9: Drive to Cusco in the morning and explore Cusco and surroundings this afternoon. Overnight at Inkaterra La Casona.
Day 10: A full day exploring Cusco and a second night at Inkaterra La Casona.
Day 11: Fly back to Lima and depart, or extend your trip at this point to visiting Lake Titicaca and staying at Titilaka.
The Everyday Actions of Earth Day Heroes Across Latin America
Earth Day serves as a fantastic annual reminder to recycle more, plant a tree, and turn off the water when brushing one’s teeth. But what about the other 364 days of the year? We are lucky to partner with some of the boldest thought leaders and action takers in Latin America when it comes to protecting & bettering the planet.
The Everyday Actions of Earth Day Heroes Across Latin America
Every year, Earth Day serves as a fantastic annual reminder to recycle more, plant a tree and turn off the water when brushing one’s teeth. But what about the other 364 days of the year? When the crazy news cycle immediately pulls our attention in 10 million other directions, who is still prioritizing our planet’s wellbeing and keeping conservation & sustainability top of mind as daily guiding principles for operation?
In many ways, the travel industry has taken up this mantle, being uniquely poised to expose people with the means to travel to our seemingly dim global reality of pollution, habitat destruction and climate change. But it also shines a strong light on practices that prioritize environmental conservation, sustainable operations and projects that preserve local culture while also providing employment in impoverished areas.
We are lucky to partner with some of the boldest thought leaders and action takers in Latin America when it comes to protecting & bettering the planet. Changing people’s mindsets, taking real action against plastic and waste managements, creating protected wildlife corridors and creating jobs while preserving unique local culture. Here’s a roundup of some of the most impactful sustainability initiatives that your guests can experience at our hotels & lodges in Latin America:
1.) Promoting Appropriate Luxury at Galapagos Safari Camp
When Galapagos Safari Camp founders Stephanie Bonham-Carter and Michael Mesdag first climbed a tree and took in the mesmerizing view of the Santa Cruz highlands, they knew they wanted to create a low-impact hospitality experience connects guests with the fragile nature of the Galapagos Islands rather than another predictable hotel. Their philosophy of “Appropriate Luxury” applies to every decision they make in operating the Galapagos Safari Camp, from relying on rainwater collection to growing their own food and utilizing solar power whenever possible. Questions like “Why don’t the safari tents have AC?” or “Why doesn’t your lodge have Jacuzzi tubs or televisions?” are an opportunity to engage potential guests in a dialogue about the environmental costs of importing the resources (diesel generators and fresh water) to provide these “expected luxuries.” And begs the question that, as visitors to this natural sanctuary, why do we feel entitled to certain amenities that the resident population has learned to adapt without?
“Consider for a moment that the animals on land have adapted to the lack of freshwater. Giant tortoises can go for months without a reliable source of water, sea lions depend on the fish they eat for their daily intake and Darwin’s finches wait until the wet season to mate.”
GSC invites guests to adjust their own vision and expectations of what “should” be available and considered luxury, setting aside notions of ordinary opulence in exchange for truly engaging with a different and unique environment. Visit their website for a deeper dive into the concept of Appropriate Luxury.
2.) Waging War Against Waste at Machu Picchu: Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel
What happens when an isolated archeological wonder without overland highway access attracts nearly 1.6 million visitors a year? A massive amount of waste is created and left behind, so much so that in 2016 the waste management crisis at Machu Picchu contributed to the Inca citadel being evaluated for UNESCO’s list of ‘World Heritage in Danger.’
To manage the impact of trash left behind by visitors, Inkaterra & beverage manufacturer AJE group have partnered to launch an organic waste treatment plant in Machu Picchu Pueblo. This will make the area the first in Latin America to manage 100 percent of its solid waste through pyrolysis, which decomposes the waste at high temperatures without oxygen. The plant has the capacity to process seven tons of waste per day to generate bio-coal, a natural fertilizer that will help with the reforestation of the Andean cloud forest and contribute to agricultural productivity in Machu Picchu.
This is in addition to other initiatives that the Inkaterra Association has already spearheaded in the region. To address the plastic waste left by tourists, they already operate a compacting and recycling center that processes a staggering average of 14 tons of plastic daily. And to discourage local communities, hotels and restaurants from disposing their used cooking oil into the Vilcanota River, Inkaterra helped build a biodiesel production plant to process used oil. The plant produces 20 gallons of biodiesel daily from nearly 6,000 liters of used oil a month.
Inkaterra — with properties in the heart of the Machu Picchu cloud forest, deep in the Amazon rainforest, in the city of Cusco and in the Sacred Valley of the Incas — creates authentic travel experiences, while preserving biodiversity and local cultures in Peru.
3.) Protecting Pumas Beyond the National Park: Awasi Patagonia
Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park is considered the best place on the planet on see the elusive puma thanks to an abundance of juicy guanacos to feed on and protection from hunters within park boundaries since 1972. An estimated 50 cats currently live within the park and studies indicate that their numbers are on the rise.
But what happens to the big cats when they roam beyond the borders or TDP where they are not protected? Close to 100 pumas are killed each year in Chilean Patagonia, mostly by sheep ranchers offering a bounty payout on puma skins. And as the puma population grows, along with the annual number of visitors to Torres del Paine, these solitude-seeking predators are more likely to wander beyond their invisible safety net.
To counteract this issue, Awasi Patagonia and the Awasi Puma Foundation have created a 11,000 acre protected corridor adjacent to the park, turning a former sheep farming estancia into a private reserve. Native grasslands and shrubs have been allowed to regrow after years of overgrazing and the private status of the reserve keeps human visitors to a minimum, allowing free and safe reign to its rightful inhabitants: guanacos, pumas, condors and other species.
While the Awasi Puma Foundation is relatively new, its impact is already measurable. Earlier this month, a guide at Awasi Patagonia spotted two rare Geoffroy’s Cats kittens on the private reserve, indicating that this seldom seen feline is thriving in the protected corridor adjacent to the park. Guests of Awasi can join a biologist researcher and guide on a special puma tracking excursion in the private reserve.
4.) Preserving Cultural Heritage: El Otro Lado & Bahia Portobelo Foundation
Portobelo was once the busiest city in the New World and the point for all trade between Europe and of South America, including the inhuman trade of enslaved Africans. A small group of slaves – the Cimarrones - won their freedom and established their own communities in and around Portobelo where they preserved and celebrated their African heritage.
With the creation of the Panama Railroad and Panama Canal, Portobelo’s usefulness as a trade port was eliminated. While economic opportunities flourished in Panama City and along the Canal Zone, the gap between the country’s rich and poor widened, aided by racism and little government support for infrastructure and education in remote areas. Along the Caribbean Coast, areas with indigenous or minority populations such as Portobelo were cut off from the prosperity of the other side of the country. Panama today is one of great contrasts and an income inequality comparable to Brazil and South Africa.
Founded in 1993 as the Portobelo Workshop, today’s Fundación Bahía de Portobleo, supported in part by El Otro Lado, works to improve the local quality of life by promoting socioeconomic projects within the community that also preserve & celebrate the community’s African identity. Guests at El Otro Lado are invited to discover the soul of Portobelo’s Congo Culture through drumming lessons or cultural dance performances with local students at the Escuelita del Ritmo (Little School of Rhythm) or art and woodcarving workshops at the art studio. Today, the foundation supports over 100 local students with free classes in music, dance, art and educational support. The facilities house five music rooms, a dance room, workshops, study halls, English and computer labs, a recording studio and a multi-use room for recitals, concerts and cinema. Much of the support comes through tourism, and the two hotels and restaurants fully run by the foundation, as well as El Otro Lado, account for the employment of over 100 local people.