Trains, Planes & Automobiles: How to Access Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca is now more accessible than ever thanks to new train routes linking Cusco, Puno and Arequipa. To help guests navigate the multitude of transportation choices, Titilaka has compiled a helpful pdf outlining all access options for travelers arriving from Bolivia or within Peru.  The pdf, featured in their latest newsletter, is geared towards travel-industry insiders but does not mention rates and therefore can be sent directly to clients who are considering Lake Titicaca and Titilaka.  Download a copy of the PDF here.  

Trains:

On May 31st, 2017, PeruRail relaunched the Titicaca Train which links Puno to Cusco on a 10 hour and 33 minute luxury rail trip. Passengers travel through spectacular high altiplano scenery in Pullman-style train cars with a capacity for 132 persons. The train travels from Cusco-Puno on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and from Puno to Cusco on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays. No stops are made, though travelers can take in the scenery from the Observatory/Bar car while enjoying traditional live music and dancing, three gourmet meals, assorted beverages and afternoon tea. This is an excellent option for train buffs looking for a more relaxing day after the excitement of already touring the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu but due to the length of travel and lack of stops, is not recommended for children. More information on the journey and services can be found on the PeruRail website.  

Andean Explorer Train Route in Detail

The Belmond Andean Explorer began service this year, offering the first ultra-luxury Sleeper Train experience in South America.  The train runs between Cusco, Lake Titicaca (Puno) and Arequipa with regularly scheduled weekly departures for every month except February and unlike the Titicaca Train, passengers disembark on short, guided explorations along the route. Currently, travel options include either a 3-day/2-night journey connecting Cusco to Arequipa (with just a day-long stop at Lake Titicaca) or as a 1-night/2-day journey between Cusco and Puno.  While PeruRail manages the bookings for the Belmond Andean Explorer, in-depth descriptions of the routes and sleeper cars can be found on the Belmond website. 

Planes:

Flying continues to be the quickest and most convenient way to reach Lake Titicaca. From Lima, LATAM and Avianca offer a total of four nonstop daily flights to Juliaca, the closest airport to Puno and Lake Titicaca. Nonstop flight time is just under two hours. Many more flights connect via Cusco and the Cusco-Juliaca leg of the flight takes just 40 minutes.  While codesharing makes it possible to book onward travel to Juliaca after an international arrival into Lima, this really isn't recommended due to the high altitude of the lake of 12,508' asl.  Better to first acclimate in Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu and then proceed up to Lake Titicaca. 

Titilaka offers complimentary pick-up for all guests arriving at the Juliaca Airport.  The cultural experience begins right away as a brief stop is often made at Sillustani, a large complex of Pre-Hispanic tombs located about halfway between Titilaka and the airport.  

Automobiles:

Private car transfers can be arranged to Lake Titicaca from Arequipa, the Colca Canyon, Cusco and the Bolivian Border and travel times range from 2-7 hours without stops.  There are also a number of 'tourist bus' companies that offer First Class service between Arequipa and Puno or Cusco and Puno. Timing ranges from 7 hours with direct travel to a full 12 hours if the bus makes stops along the way. While there generally isn't much overlap between guests who stay at Titilaka and travelers who opt to go overland by bus, its still a viable transportation option to be aware of.

Titilaka includes complimentary guest pick-up at either the Puno rail station, Puno bus station or Juliaca Airport and can arrange overland transportation from Bolivia or Arequipa upon request. Private touring en route can be arranged as well if requested in advance. 

A New Rural Retreat in the Sacred Valley

A New Rural Retreat in the Sacred Valley

For over forty years Inkaterra has set the bar for providing guests with the most authentic, personalized and sustainable experiences in Peruvian hospitality.  The newest property in the collection is no exception; since opening in mid 2015, Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba has garnered numerous accolades. The lodge was named one of the Best New Hotels by Conde Nast Traveler in 2016,  made Travel + Leisure’s “IT List 2016″ in the category of The Best New Hotels on The Planet and kicked off 2017 with a feature in Virtuoso's 'Best of the Best' directory as an exemplary property for 'Bringing a Destination to Life."

Anyone who has travelled to Peru in the past few years knows that the Sacred Valley (or Urubamba Valley) is exploding with development.  In the agricultural paradise once known as 'breadbasket of the Inca Empire" there's now no shortage of choice for high end properties with beautiful rooms, great chefs and wonderful spas.  So what makes Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba unique among the other offerings? 

Location, Location, Location: One does not escape the city for the countryside in the hopes of encountering the same. Instead of being located within or adjacent to a town bursting with tour busses or along the busy main road, Hacienda Urubamba offers travelers a true rural retreat, resplendent with peace, quiet and Andean vistas.  Set away from road, between the towns of Urubamba and Calca, the lodge sits on 100 acres surrounded by imposing green mountains. Each room boasts a mountain view and the most disturbing sound you're likely to hear in the morning is birdsong.

Inkaterra property locations in Cusco, the Sacred Valley and outside of Machu Picchu

Honoring Traditional Agriculture: The ancient Incas were brilliant farmers, cultivating hundreds of varieties of potatoes and dozens of other vegetables in a seemingly inhospitable high altitude environment. Their techniques and wisdom are honored in Hacienda Urubamba's 10 acre organic plantation which is cultivated using traditional Andean methods such as hand tools and ox-pulled plows.  Guests are invited to visit the farm to learn about medicinal plants and native food sources and are encouraged to harvest their own produce from the garden for an interactive farm-to-table dining experience!

All meals served at Hacienda Urubamba highlight fresh produce straight from the organic farm

Connecting with Nature & Andean Culture: Like other properties in the Inkaterra portfolio, Hacienda Urubamba offers guests a variety of inclusive experiences to connect guests more closely with the surrounding environment and people. Learn to prepare the traditional Chicha de Jora beverage by harvesting, grinding, fermenting, and finally tasting your own Inca drink. Join an in-house guide to hike the property's trail in search of endemic birds or enjoy the sunset while learning about the importance of astronomy in the Andean world.  These experiences are available daily and do not need to be arranged in advance. Guided excursions throughout the Sacred Valley and to Machu Picchu can also be arranged with the dedicated concierge staff for an additional cost. 

Check out the video below to discover the magic of the Hacienda Urubamba for yourself! 

Welcome to the Jungle... Traveling to the Peruvian Amazon

Welcome to the Jungle... Traveling to the Peruvian Amazon

The Amazon Rainforest is intimidatingly massive. It covers 2.5 million square miles, houses approximately 16,000 different species of plants and spans most of South America, stretching across the borders of nine of the continents' thirteen nations.  Generally, Brazil is the first country that comes to mind when one envisions the Amazon; after all, the majority of the rainforest (approximately 60%) is found here, as is most of the Amazon River which transects the country. However, it is actually Peru, where the headwaters of the Amazon River form in the Andes, that offers travelers what is arguably the best Amazon experience in South America, particularly when it comes to viewing wildlife. Peru contains two distinct Amazon regions with excellent and varied wildlife viewing, offers a choice of logistics that range from short commercial flights to multi-day overland passages through numerous ecosystems, and has a wide range of accommodation options, including truly upscale and comfortable ecolodges that are less common in rainforest environs.  A few days in the Amazon, particularly in the readily accessible southern Tambopata region, is an easy and recommended add-on to a Peru itinerary. 

Where? Peru's Amazon rainforest makes up 60% of the country and can be divided into two major regions, the Upper (northern) and Lower (southern) Amazon.  The Upper Amazon is generally accessed by Iquitos and is dominated by rivers and flooded forest, including the protected Pacaya - Samiria National Reserve, located 75 miles by river from Iquitos. There are a few lodges, but most exploration takes place via live aboard river boats that cruise the Amazon River, beginning and ending their itineraries in Iquitos.  

The Lower Amazon materializes from the eastern flanks of Peru's southern Andes and contains the pristine wildlife sanctuaries of the Manu Biosphere Reserve and the Tambopata Candamo Reserved Zone.  Manu is typically accessed from Cusco via an overland journey of several days through a myriad of ecosystems. Though arduous to reach, the wildlife density is unmatched; 1,000 birds have been identified in Manu, as have 15,000 different plants, 13 species of monkey and millions of insects. Unlike many rainforest regions, Manu has remained untouched by civilization, ensuring healthy populations of jaguar, tapir and the giant otter.

Peru's Northern and Southern Amazon Regions

Reaching the Tambopata Reserve & environs requires a flight to Puerto Maldonado (about 45 minutes from Cusco) and than a boat journey along the Madre del Dios and Tambopata Rivers. The boat journey generally takes place in a traditional dugout canoe (with outboard motor and sun shade) and can last from 30 minutes to 6 hours, depending on how deeply one ventures into this section of the rainforest. However, some of the best wildlife viewing often takes place while in transit by boat, especially at dusk and dawn when animals come to the river's edge to drink! 

What to Expect? It's important to know that viewing wildlife in the Amazon is not like viewing wildlife on an African safari or on the Galapagos Islands; rainforest animals are well camouflaged and fearful of humans so observing them in the jungle requires patience, quiet and stillness. (Though that's not to say that the Amazon isn't a good choice for families! More on that below.) Traveling long distance by boat or vehicle is time consuming and sometimes less than extremely comfortable.  Vaccinations and anti malarial medications are essential. Air conditioning and other resource-intensive amenities such as swimming pools are generally not available, even at luxury ecolodges. (Instead, lodges tend to be open to the forest on at least one side to allow the sounds and atmosphere of the surrounding jungle to penetrate the property.  It's a wonderful experience to wake up at dawn and while still in bed be completely surrounded by the deep whoops of Howler monkeys echoing across the forest!)  And though both Peru's Upper and Lower Amazon contain heavily protected rainforest preserves, the devastating effects of deforestation, mining and oil extraction are sadly encountered en route. 

Oh but the brilliant, bold and beautiful things you will see!  Poison dart frogs that glisten in jewel tones, troops of Squirrel monkeys that scamper across rooftops, palms with stilt 'legs' and legions of leaf-cutter ants, bearing their bright green burdens across the forest floor. Giant river otters, tapirs, peccaries, capybara, caiman and the elusive jaguar can be found throughout the Peruvian Amazon. In the North, the pink Amazon River dolphins attract the most attention while in the South, large clay licks attracting raucous bands of macaws and parrots of every color often steal the show. Excursions to view wildlife can be guided forest walks, boat trips along rivers and oxbow lakes and sometimes include ascending towers and walkways elevated above the forest canopy.  Most excursions take place in the early morning or evening when wildlife is most active, leaving the middle of the day to read, relax or take a jungle siesta! Guides are often members of indigenous forest communities who possess ancient forest wisdom; some lodges work in partnership with local tribes to offer travelers a day of cultural exchange and immersion.  

When to Go? In the Northern Amazon the year is divided into “high water” (December–May) and “low water” (June–November) seasons which dictate how you are likely to experience the Amazon (on foot or by water craft) and what species and behaviors you are more likely to observe.  Despite the nomenclature, rain falls year round and the high water season only sees a 10% increase in rainfall over the low water season. During the high water season, the average temperature is 86°F.  Flooded rivers create amazing panoramas and bring one closer to the canopy for more intimate observations of birds and monkeys that dwell in the tree tops.  The low water season is a bit warmer. The average temperature is 98°F, more migratory birds may be spotted, flooded trails dry up to allow for forest hikes and hooking a piranha while fishing is almost a sure thing.  

Peru's Southern Amazon region is far enough removed from equator that it has a somewhat cooler and drier climate to that of the North and more seasonal variation. The rainy season is from November through April when rain can continue for hours or occasionally even days. Around 80% of the annual rainfall occurs during this season. The dry season is from May through October when temperatures are typically in the 80s but can occasionally drop down to 50°F when a cold front moves through. There's a perception that diminishing water sources in the dry season help concentrate wildlife a bit more for viewing, but we've had excellent sightings year round.  

Why Go? Go to experience the most biodiverse ecosystem on the planet; to marvel at the vast medicinal applications and unique adaptations of rainforest flora; to walk through the canopy along a hanging bridge and stare out across a sea of vivid green. If you are a birder, go to tick an almost incomprehensible number of species off of your list in one visit.  Go to experience what it is like to be lulled to sleep and then awakened by the sounds of the forest; to look up and see troops of monkeys feeding in the treetops rimming an oxbow lake; to feel the thrill of spotting a fresh jaguar print in the mud and know that he, though invisible, is most likely watching you. Go because the Amazon rainforest is an endangered species, and conservation-minded and responsible tourism offers it some measure of protection from going extinct. 

Who is it For? Obviously birders, wildlife lovers and overall nature enthusiasts revel in the natural treasures of the Peruvian Amazon. The travel logistics to access certain regions and the pace of exploration do make some parts of Peru's Amazon better suited for adults.  But the Amazon is also a great destination for families.  

Exploring the Amazon with my family.

Inkaterra's Reserva Amazonica sits along the Southern Amazon's Madre del Dios river, just a 45 minute boat journey outside of Puerto Maldonado and close to the borders of the Tambopata Reserve.  A luxury eco lodge, Reserva Amazonica boasts extremely comfortable private screened-in cabanas and offers a variety of guided jungle explorations designed for children as young as five.  While the proximity to civilization makes spotting a jaguar unlikely, it isn't impossible, and excursions to wildlife rich Lago Sandoval (an oxbow lake with a resident family of river otters) and into the tree tops along the lodge's Canopy Walkway bring guests eye-to-eye with the rainforest's wild inhabitants. 

Reserva Amazonica's Canopy Walkway takes guests 100' above the rainforest floor

Titicaca..much more than a funny named lake.

Titicaca...much more than a funny named lake.

Standing on the shoreline of Lake Titicaca in the brilliant morning sun, it’s the scale that overtakes your senses. Nestled amongst snowcapped, 20,000 foot Andean peaks, the lake itself is a vast expanse of impossibly blue water. It measures a staggering 118 miles by 50 miles—larger than the combined landmasses of Rhode Island and Connecticut. With an average depth of 351 feet it is South America’s largest lake by volume, while also being one of its highest at 12,507 feet.

A man from Isla Taquile, in traditional dress, looks across at the sister island of Amantani.

I’ve been traveling to the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca for the better part of two decades and it is precisely the incomprehensibility of the place that keeps me coming back. The ever-unfolding visual feast is just the beginning; the lake’s remarkable dimensions are rivaled only by the depth and breadth of its cultural significance in the expansive history of the Andean peoples.

Pre-Incan/Pan Andean
Justifiably, when most people think of Peru, they immediately think “Machu Picchu.” I get it; it’s a breathtaking, bucket list-worthy destination, but it’s also the tip of the iceberg. That’s because, in the grand scheme of pre-Columbian history, the Incan Empire was itself a brief but brilliant flash in the pan. Built just a few years after the beginning of the culture’s scant, 100-year reign, Machu Picchu was a Hamptons-esque estate built for the ruling elite just outside the capital city, Cuzco. 

Titicaca, by contrast, is where it all began for the Incas. It’s the setting for their origin myth; the creator god Viracocha emerged from the lake’s depths, commanded the sun, moon and stars to rise and then wrought the first human man and woman from stone. The Incans also believed their souls would return to the lake’s sapphire depths to rest for all eternity.

The human history of the area began eons and eons before the reign of the Incas, though. Archeologist estimate that it was first settled sometime between 10,000 and 8,000 B.C.E., making it quite literally a cradle of civilization on the South American continent. 

The cultural landscape we see at the lake today is incredibly complex precisely because it has been slowly unfolding for millennia. As with all human stories, the plot hits the big beats (enough conquest, subjugation, alliances and upheaval in quantities to make Game of Thrones look like a children’s book). However, what’s really remarkable about Titicaca is the way in which extreme diversity manifests in such close proximity. 

Altiplano

Women most likely from the Bolivian Altiplano (due to the bowler hats) discuss matters during the weekly Acora market)

Copamaya Community

The people of the small village of Copamaya are master weavers

Capachica Penninsula

A young single girl from the peninsula of Capachica (you can tell her status and residency from the type of hat)

Titilaka Community

A family of shepherds returns home after a day grazing 

Taquile Island

A man dressed in traditional Taquile garments shows off his ingenious hand carved wooden lock and key

Uros Islands

A woman on the floating islands of Uros cooks with clay pots over a totora reed fire

Festival of La Candelaria

Festivals abound throughout the year at Lake Titicaca.  This is the largest which takes place every February

Acora Market

Women set up shop in the traditional market of Acora - which brings together inhabitants from all over Lake Titicaca

Islands Apart
Ask anyone who has visited Titicaca for highlights and inevitably the Uros are at the top of the list—and for good reason. The otherworldly network of roughly 40 floating islands are made entirely of the native totora reeds, which grow in abundance on the shores of the lake. 

The more than 2,000 members of the Uru ethnic group who live on the islands are culturally distinct but speak Aymara, the language of the predominant mainland people. Both cultures preceded the Incas, and despite having been conquered by the empire, retained elements of their (somewhat) shared identities. 

By contrast, the inhabitants of nearby Taquile Island still live by the traditional Incan moral code: ama sua, ama llulla, ama qhilla ("do not steal, do not lie, do not be lazy") and to this day speak Quechua, the official language of the Incan empire. 

Linguistically, Quechua and Aymara are not even in the same family. This means that people who are essentially neighbors literally cannot understand each other—and haven’t been able to for thousands of years. As a result, occasions for interaction, local markets for example such as the one in Acora, are rarely dull affairs. In an explosion of colorful, dramatically different traditional dress, vendors hawking colorful, dramatically different goods pantomime their way through transactions with patrons. It’s exciting, entertaining and wildly inefficient, but everybody’s just kind of OK with that.

Opposites Interact
In a place where so many cultures have intersected, embracing difference rather than subsuming it is key to keeping the peace. In fact, you could say that duality is the rule, not the exception here. This is a fundamental concept in Andean cosmology—Ayni—which relates to the need for a balance of opposites in the universe. 

In order to experience the living embodiment of Ayni, it’s necessary only to travel a short distance from Taquile to Amantani. The boat ride, less than a mile, can feel like a passage through a portal into an inverse universe where everything is suddenly the opposite.

The islanders share a common language and Incan heritage, but Taquile is a patriarchy, Amantani a matriarchy. On the former, men govern the community and head families. They also knit clothing and textiles recognized by UNESCO for their quality and cultural importance, leaving virtually all other work on the island to the women. On Amantani, that dynamic is flipped: women make the decisions and manage the day-to-day governance of the island while men labor in the fields. The inconsistencies, it seems, are necessary in the grand scheme of the Andean universe. Without one, there could be no other.

When someone asks me for my favorite destinations around the world, Peru will always be at the top of the list. If they want details and recommendations, my stock answer is “Don’t skip Titicaca!” Machu Picchu is a given—as it should be—but to travel so far and not have the magical experience of standing at the edge of the lake on a crystal clear morning, would be to truly miss out. And if they ask, “Either/or?” I can only honestly reply, “Both.”

To experience Lake Titicaca in the most immersive way, consider staying at Titilaka, a luxury lodge on a private peninsula that provides guests with daily excursions to the local communities. www.titilaka.pe