Return to Nicaragua and Jicaro Island Lodge
In early April of 2019 I spent a week in Nicaragua with a good friend from college. Using Jicaro Island Lodge as our base, we planned day trips around Granada, Mombacho and Masaya. Here, I share my thoughts on revisiting Jicaro Island, traveler safety in Nicaragua following political unrest in 2018, and the moral dilemma of “should you go?”
Return to Jicaro Island Lodge
In early April of 2019 I spent a week in Nicaragua with a good friend from college. Using Jicaro Island Lodge as our base, we planned day trips around Granada, Mombacho and Masaya.
What would Nicaragua feel like to a visitor now, one year later? Is it safe? Should one travel there? Some form of these questions arrive in my inbox several times each week and the most honest way to answer was to revisit myself. Following are answers to some of the most frequent queries that I receive about Nicaragua and Jicaro Island.
Hiking on Mombacho Volcano, overlooking the Isletas de Granada and Lake Nicaragua.
Is Nicaragua Safe for Tourists?
Without hesitation, yes, tourists can safely travel within the country and have been for some time, since Canada the UK and most EU member nations removed their travel warnings several months ago. In fact, Jicaro Island Lodge was mostly full during our stay; we shared the island with couples from Costa Rica, the UK, Toronto, New York and a family with teenagers from Kentucky.
The only snafu we encountered was on our arrival day and it was the fault of Spirit Airlines (and my friend for opting to book Spirit Airlines, but I suppose that everyone has to learn that lesson once.) Jicaro Island took care of all of our transfers, adjusted plans to compensate for Spirit’s failings and arranged several days of guided touring. In Granada, lingering hints of last year still faintly exist in the form of a quieter town and “cerrado” signs hanging on some of the bars and stores that catered exclusively to tourist crowds. But the market and main square were bustling and vendors were eager to banter, show off their carving skills or have you sample their special version of Vigorón. On our requisite visit to the bell tower in Iglesia La Merced, we took in the views over the town’s colonial rooftops with a group of middle schoolers from Masaya and posed for several selfies.
Serene lake views from the pool deck at Jicaro Island Lodge.
Masaya’s Lava Lake
Who Should Go to Nicaragua?
Even before last year, Nicaragua was a delightfully raw “un sanitized” travel experience, especially when compared to Costa Rica’s tourist-focused Guanacaste region just across the border. From the wildly painted chicken buses following their own rules of the road to the frequently seen vaqueros herding livestock down dirt paths and across fields, traveling through Nicaragua reminds you that you’re far from home. There aren’t too many other places in the world where one can drive nearly to the edge of an active volcano and gaze down into a boiling lava lake, sand board down the side of a volcano, join an entire town in passionately cheering on the local baseball team and surf epic waves without battling crowds of other tourists, all in a long weekend .
But you don’t have to be a thrill seeker to appreciate Nicaragua. Jicaro Island is a wonderful place to disconnect and recharge; from quiet mornings with coffee and birdsong to yoga classes near the Cenote and Spanish practice with Jicaro’s encouraging staff, there are many ways to slow down but still richly engage with and soak in the destination. Travel Advisor Sarah Groen of Bell & Bly Travel Design (an affiliate of Brownell Travel) suggested it as the perfect country for Spanish-language immersion, after living with a family in Leon and studying Spanish herself a few years ago.
And of course there is an economic incentive; Nicaragua is very affordable, even in high season.
Why Stay on Jicaro Island Instead of in Granada?
Of all the Cayuga Collection properties, Jicaro holds a special place for me as it perplexed me the most prior to my initial visit; why would anyone stay out on an island “treehouse” in the middle of Lake Nicaragua instead of within Colonial Granada? Experiencing the property for the first time was an ah-ha moment; after a hot day of hiking, horseback riding or walking the dusty and busy streets of Granada, the breezy fifteen minute boat ride through the Isletas transports you to a private island oasis, perfectly positioned to showcase amazing sunsets over Mombacho Volcano. Friendly staff appear out of nowhere with new tropical refreshment and a cool towel that you didn’t know you wanted. And the food - Jicaro’s menu is an amazing highlight in Central America! If you’ve been, you know.
Rather than visiting Las Isletas de Granada for a ½ day cruise (a popular excursion from Granada), a stay at Jicaro allows travelers to live among the tiny fishing communities that have inhabited these islands for centuries. On a SUP or kayak paddle among the neighboring islands you’ll encounter fisherman tossing traditional circular nets into the lake and children rowing their blue and red boats to their school, which guests of Jicaro are welcome to visit for themselves.
Neighbors on Jicaro Island
Since partnering with the Padre Nello School several years ago, Jicaro Island Lodge and their guests have funded the installation of a water treatment system (that provides clean drinking water for 600 people in the surrounding communities), solar panels to provide electricity to the classrooms and countless school supplies. When tourists stopped coming last year, Jicaro Island Lodge’s owner Karen Emmanuel paid out of pocked to keep as many staff employed as possible and ensure that Jicaro’s projects with the local community received continued financial support.
Arge, just one of the amazing people at Jicaro Island, is an aspiring photographer and a creative mixologist.
What is there to do on Jicaro Island?
While the island is small with only nine “treehouse” casitas on stilts ringing its exterior, it packs a lot in. (See an aerial map of Jicaro Island) Yoga classes are offered complementary every morning, staff regularly host informal Spanish lessons, cooking & cocktail classes and at reception you’ll find a well-stocked selection of games, from giant Jenga to backgammon, chess and Monopoly, as well as birding books and binoculars. SUPs and kayaks are always available for guest use and the floating dock is a marvelous place to sunbathe and swim if you prefer the lake to Jicaro’s pool.
The Jicaro Island Tour Book is a great resource for guided excursions on the lake, in Granada and beyond. With a four night stay we walked Granada’s colorful streets and central market, hiked through the multitude of microclimates ringing Mombacho Volcano, visited the artisan pottery village of San Juan de Oriente (tried – and failed – to throw a pot on a wheel powered only by kicking), sampled traditional Easter sweets and learned about the folkloric dance traditions in Masaya town and of course gazed into Masaya Volcano’s churning lava lake at dusk. A fifth night would have been optimal to spend allow a full day to just chill on the island and make use of the water colors we packed.
Natural pigments and hand carved details are hallmarks of San Juan de Oriente’s unique style of pottery.
I always recommend that travel advisors combine Jicaro Island with Rancho Santana on Nicaragua’s southern coast. The two properties are perfect complements to each other. Begin with a few days at Jicaro to explore the volcanos, lakes and colonial towns near Lake Nicaragua then finish with 3 or 4 nights at the beach, or vice versa.
Latest News from the Properties - December 2018
Here is a roundup of the latest news and happenings from each of the properties, from faster boats and room improvements at Titilaka to the opening of a new spa at Hacienda Urubamba. In addition to updates from our existing properties, we also welcome UNESCO recognized El Otro Lado Private Retreat in Panama to the portfolio this year!
Latest News from the Properties
PERU
After a decade of innovation and setting the bar for exclusive & immersive luxury experiences on Lake Titicaca, Titilaka is in the midst of several renovation & expansion projects. These are being conducted in such a way as to not affect guests staying at the lodge and are set to conclude by mid 2019.
Chief among the improvements are:
Titilaka Corner Rooms
Outdoor hot tub and new-state-of-art motors for faster boats will be available (completed in November 2018)
All rooms, common and social areas as well as terraces are being redecorated while corner rooms are revamped with additional amenities
New services are being implemented including complimentary access to airport VIP lounge for all guest, Wi-Fi in all the hotel's vehicles and boats and enhanced culinary experiences are being put in place.
Titilaka is also adjusting their rates next year, the first increase since 2014. For clients desiring the utmost in privacy and flexibility, this is a great thing as the Titilaka Experience can now be booked on an all-inclusive, private basis. The traditional Titilaka Experience will also remain available for guests who want to participate in set excursions on a shared basis.
Lastly, the team behind Titilaka has announced plans to expand, with new lodges planned for Arequipa (2019) and Cusco (TBD). You can view a full presentation on Titilaka’s upgrades & changes here.
Inkaterra’s Hacienda Urubamba, a Virtuoso Property, recently celebrated the opening of Mayu Spa (“River” in Quechua) in August. With a rustic chic design inspired by traditional Andean architecture, Mayu Spa is located on a low hill between I Hacienda Urubamba’s organic orchard and an enchanting pepper tree forest. Treatments are based in 100% natural products derived from native medicinal herbs; the new wellness center has a plunge pool, four private therapy rooms and a dry sauna and offers a variety of massages, therapies, reflexology and facials. For more details, check out their blog post on Mayu Spa.
Some say that you hear the best stories while sitting at the bar. Axel Romero at Hotel B, the cocktail wizard who was recently awarded the Best Peruvian Bartender 2018 at the Summum 2018 Awards, knows the value of a good bar yarn and uses these as inspiration behind his cocktails. For this experienced bartender, each drink is a chance to write an exquisite and stimulating story in which spirits, juices and spices are cast in the leading roles. He is passionate about his career: after previously working at Astrid & Gastón for several years, he is now at Hotel B where he is committed to making each one of his drinks an experience. Read more about Axel and other winners of the Summum Awards (like the James Beard awards for Peru) here.
COLOMBIA
The team at Hacienda Bambusa has been busy in 2018, creating new activities & excursions and elevating the details of the 8 en suite bedrooms within the Hacienda. New photos are available via dropbox in the Hacienda Bambusa image library and the Activities Book can be easily shared with guests to help them select their desired excursions in advance. Choose the Best of Bambusa option for an all-inclusive experience and a great value for your guests.
COSTA RICA
To cope with increasing tourism in Manuel Antonio, Arenas Del Mar continues to pioneer new experiences for their guests to enjoy in the area. Coming soon are early morning visits to a private nature reserve with great wildlife viewing and mountain biking in the hills above Quepos.
Latitude 10 Resort in Santa Teresa closed for part of October & November to undergo renovations and has reopened looking better than ever! New king-size canopy beds in each suite, soft upgrades & in-room amenities, a completely revamped menu and on-site experiences (like complimentary on-site cooking classes and beachfront yoga) have completely elevated the Latitude 10 experience.
Kurà recently welcomed a new Spa Director (formerly of Hacienda Alta Gracia) and has completely revamped the menu at Spa Shà in addition to creating new breakfast, lunch and dinner menus. Ask about full board options for guests, available for booking on request.
Lapa Rios Lodge has added themed dinner nights to their menus - including BBQ, Dock to Dish Night (make your own ceviche) and “Comida Tipica” to showcase local foods enjoyed in Costa Rica. This gives guests staying 3 or 4 nights an excellent variety in meal choice and is also fun & interactive for families.
Lastly, the Cayuga Collection team has been hard at work opening Senda Monteverde, a new boutique lodge just a short walk from town and adjacent to a private Cloud Forest Nature Reserve. Senda officially opens on December 15 and to celebrate, is offering 10% when booked in conjunction with another Cayuga property. Details and restrictions are found via the link.
ECUADOR & GALAPAGOS
If you have any clients looking for a last minute "festive season" option, we just had some unforeseen prime date cancellations at Hacienda Zuleta in Ecuador. Couldn't think of a more welcoming place to be than with the Galo-Plaza family over the holidays - hiking and horseback riding during the day and feasting on farm fresh cheese and wine by the fireplace in the evening. You can either contact your DMC or email mariafernanda@haciendazuleta.com for updated availability over Christmas, New Years and into January.
If you are unfamiliar with Hacienda Zuleta, check out the video below for an overview on this gem of a property. If you would like a copy branded with your own logo as an intro, please send Clark your logo and he can provide it to you.
Mashpi Lodge has always maintained a great blog, but recent posts are particularly helpful for travel advisors from a sales perspective.
Seasonal Weather, Birds & Animals at Mashpi
What’s the Ride to Mashpi Lodge Like? (Good hour by hour breakdown of the journey from Quito to Mashpi)
Family Friendly Activities at Mashpi Lodge (Divided into younger children, older children and teens)
Galapagos Safari Camp owner Stephanie Bonham-Carter recently wrote a great blog post about “Appropriate Luxury”, a concept we applaud and support across all of our properties that operate in remote and fragile environments. Creating a luxury guest experience that is equally respectful of the natural world is a balancing act, and there’s a good reason you won’t find imported fish or out of season produce on the menu or air conditioning in your tented suites.
Check out the full post here: Appropriate Luxury in the Galapagos - The Safari Camp Approach and share this with your clients.
Galapagos Safari Camp also recently become of the Traveller Made consortia in November.
Do you have travelers staying at Casa Gangotena who like to get out and explore on their own?
Share these “Three Recommended Walks Through Quito’s Old Town” for suggestions on great self-guided walking tours to local markets, churches, down interesting side streets and to beautiful vista points. Quito’s Historic Center is best explored on foot and the staff at Casa Gangotena are always happy to suggest activities tailored to your client’s interests.
CHILE & ARGENTINA
Due to last minute cancellations, Awasi Atacama has space in January, which was previously 100% full. Here are the available dates for Awasi Atacama in January 2019.
6-10 January
10-15 January
14-17 January
18-23 January
25-28 January
28-31 January
Contact your DMC or info@awasi.cl to book. Additionally, Awasi Atacama welcomed new General Manager, Nicolás García to the lodge this month.
Need a moment of calm during the always busy month of December? Transport yourself into nature with this video from Awasi Iguazu.
Juan Pablo Culasso was born blind. He taught himself how to identify birds by listening to their song. He has become one of the world’s most respected bird experts; using just his ears, not his eyes. Listen to some of his recordings in Awasi Iguazú:
NICARAGUA
It was a hard year for Nicaragua & for Jicaro Island Lodge. After enjoying a hugely successful year in 2017, tourism in Nicaragua came to a standstill following political protests & violence that began in April of 2018. Jicaro Island was forced to suspend guest operations for a few months, though as many staff as possible remained employed throughout the temporary closure. Laying people off in a time of crisis only contributes to a desperate spiral and owner Karen Emmanuel used her personal resources to keep staff on the payroll through six months of closure.
With a quiet but emotional celebration on November 15, Jicaro Island Lodge officially reopened their doors to guests and Karen was there to share in the experience. In the video below, Karen shares her love for Nicaragua, especially the people who make Jicaro Lodge and the country so enchanting. Special reopening rates are available - contact your local DMC or reservations@jicarolodge.com.
PANAMA
We’re thrilled to welcome El Otro Lado Private Retreat into our portfolio. Located across the bay from Portobelo (which just received UNESCO recognition for the significance of the local Congo Culture), this colorful hideaway is an ideal base for exploring the Caribbean reefs, beaches and rainforests of Portobelo National Park, learning the fascinating legends of the likes of Sir Francis Drake and the pirate Henry Morgan, and immersing oneself in the colors, rhythms and flavors of the Congo Culture. Cozy details in the rooms and public spaces and a new wellness program also make it a perfect retreat to relax & recharge.
New in 2019, El Otro Lado will offer all-inclusive rates (full board, excursions, on-site activities & wellness experiences) and we’ll be hosting an extensive webinar on all of the changes and updates soon. In the meantime, enjoy this short video highlighting the best of Portobelo & El Otro Lado.
Panama is hot right now and Isla Palenque has been enjoying a fair amount of press. Check out the latest Town & Country issue for their guide on Where to Travel in 2019, featuring Panama and Isla Palenque.
Isla Palenque also recently announced their Dock to Dish program, making it the first hotel to Panama offer certifiably sustainable, community-sourced seafood through the award-winning program out of Montauk, NY. Learn more about the mission of Dock to Dish via the link to their website.
The Cayuga Collection - Leaders in Sustainable Luxury
Get to know the mission and values of the Cayuga Collection, a world leader in providing sustainable hospitality experiences. The six properties that we currently represent in Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Panama are all managed by Cayuga.
With the expansion of this portfolio into Central America, we’re excited to welcome six new properties in Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama that are all operated by the Cayuga Collection, an industry leader in providing sustainable luxury hospitality experiences.
Founders Hans Pfister and Andrea Bonilla are both graduates of Cornell University’s Hotel School in Ithaca, New York and dedicated ecotourism professionals. (Hans actually began his career managing the Hampton Inn at the San Jose Airport where he made waves in the late 80s by eliminating single use bath products in favor of refillable bottles.) Together, Andrea and Hans started Cayuga in 1994 with the goal to blend true luxury travel with practices that are both environmentally friendly and beneficial to the local communities. They now manage nine individually owned hotels across the region, of which we are currently representing six. These are Jicaro Island Ecolodge, Latitude 10 Resort, Arenas del Mar , Kurà Design Villas, Lapa Rios Ecolodge and Isla Palenque, a new private island resort along Panama's north Pacific coast. In 2017 Cayuga won the National Geographical World Legacy Award in the Earth Changers category.
Andrea and Hans - Founders of the Cayuga Collection
While there is some variation across the properties, the following are hallmarks of the entire collection:
No Single Use Plastic Bottles or Straws: Tap water at the Cayuga hotels is always treated and filtered to international standards and is 100% safe for human consumption. Guests are encouraged to bring their own water bottles to refill or can borrow one for the duration of their visit. Additionally, the Cayuga properties did away with plastic drinking straws several years ago, replacing these with a robust, compostable bamboo option which was the brainchild of a gardener at the Harmony Hotel in Nosara. Needless to say, he’s not gardening anymore.
Bamboo straws in cocktails at Jicaro Island
Sustainability on Display: A mission of the Cayuga Hotels is to educate guests on their sustainability practices, even the unglamorous and often overlooked ones like composting and carefully monitoring exact water to load ratios for optimal energy efficiency in the laundry room. Each property offers a complimentary “Behind the Scenes” sustainability tour to showcase the various ways green practices are implemented. This ranges from using solar panels to heat water to raising pigs to break down compostable scraps in order to produce biogas.
Go Natural: You won’t find trimmed grass lawns or perfectly paved walkways at these properties. Most of the hotels exist within the tropical rainforest so lush, natural vegetation is cultivated and in many cases, was left intact and undisturbed when the property was constructed. This equates to more wildlife, especially birds and monkeys who feed on the fruits of established trees.
Natural vegetation means more wildlife overhead or right outside your window
Employ Local: Across the 9 properties and including headquarters in San Jose, Cayuga employs over 400 individuals from Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. Staff at each hotel are 80%-100% from the local community immediately surrounding the property. All positions are year round, keeping service standards consistent and fostering cross training among employees who don't have to worry about seasonal layoffs which are typical at many Costa Rica hotels.
Eat & Drink Local: Cayuga piloted the global “Dock to Dish” program in Central America - they connect their chefs with local fishermen and only use responsibly caught seafood. This often leads to unique dishes as the hotels all pledge to purchase and prepare whatever teh fishermen bring in that day. Additionally, their restaurants use only grass-fed beef and hormone-free chicken and as many locally produced and organic fruits and vegetables as possible.
Local fishermen in Puerto Jimenez, part of the Dock to Dish program at Lapa Rios
Community Investment: The company founded and finances a public charity called Earth Equilibrium, which focuses on environmental education & community development. Supported projects range from providing local schools with solar power and a water filtration system to providing residents with educational, infrastructure and sustainable food projects
It's true that the Cayuga Collection properties may not be for everyone; travelers seeking a larger tropical resort experience with AC, dedicated pool butlers, manicured grounds, golf courses or a full gym may be happier with the international name brand resorts typical of Costa Rica's Papagayo Peninsula. But for travelers who seek to experience authentic local culture, have friendly and genuine interactions with members of the community, travel in a style that is environmentally conscious while giving back through travel, Cayuga is for them.