Inkaterra's Jungle Lodges - What's the difference between Reserva Amazonica and Hacienda Concepcion??

Inkaterra's Jungle Lodges

What's the difference between Reserva Amazonica and Hacienda Concepcion? 

Inkaterra operates two very similar jungle lodges in the SouthEastern Peruvian Amazon, and people often ask what are the major differences between them.  

The two main lodges are:

• Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica

• Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion

*Inkaterra also operates the Guides Field Station, which I will not be covering in this article but more information can be found via this LINK.

 LOCATION AND ACCESS

Canoes used for river transportation, here tied up at Hacienda Concepcion during sunrise

All three lodges are located in the Southern Peruvian Amazon region of Madre de Dios, and sit along the river of the same name.  Guests going to any of the lodges fly into Puerto Maldonado airport (PEM) which receives multiple daily direct flights from Lima (90 minutes) and Cusco (40 minutes).   So these lodges are most often visited as a first stop after arriving in Lima, and before going to Cusco, or visited after spending time in the Cusco area, and before returning to Lima.

Once guests land at Puerto Maldonado, they will be met by staff of the respective lodge they are going to and driven about 15 minutes through Puerto Maldonado to the river pier.  Here guests will board specialized motorized dugout canoes for the ride downstream on the Madre de Dios River to their lodge.  

Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion is the first lodge reached, on the right river bank, only about 25 minutes downstream of Puerto Maldonado.  Another 10 minutes downstream or 35 minute travel time total, on the opposite, left river bank, is Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica.  Then a further 10 minutes downstream from Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica (or 45 minutes total from Puerto Maldonado) on the same left river bank is Inkaterra Guides Field Station. Below is a map of the area noting the locations of both Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion and Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, and the various excursions in the area.

PRICE POINT AND CLIENT PROFILE

Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica was the original and still is the flagship of the three lodges, it is the most expensive and the most comfortable of the three in terms of services offered and onsite amenities. 

Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion is slightly less in cost than Reserva Amazonica, and varies somewhat in the services and amenities offered, but has unique attributes that might attract certain guests to stay there instead of Reserva Amazonica regardless of the lower price point. 

LODGE SETTINGS AND ACCOMMODATION CHARACTERISTICS

The beautiful main lodge at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica

All lodges are built in traditional jungle style of wooden beams, thatched roofs, dark hardwood flooring and are screened in with ceiling fans, there is no air conditioning, you are not hermetically sealed away from the rainforest you have come to experience.  The lodges are all off the grid, so are powered by generators that run from 5am to 3pm and then from 5:30pm to 11pm to provide light and ventilation by ceiling fans. There is hot water in all the rooms run on a solar/gas system.

Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion sits on the right riverbank and is a short, perhaps 5 minute walk back into the rainforest from the rivers edge. So it is not on the river.  It actually sits on a small cocha (Lake) and is surrounded by thick jungle, with gravel paths connecting the Casitas (rooms) with the main lodge area, as you walk you are surrounded by rainforest.  There is a lot of jungle noise here, you really feel enveloped by the rainforest at Hacienda Concepcion and a lot of people love this aspect of being “amongst it”.  The Cocha (lake) attracts a lot of wildlife, such as caiman you can see swimming around and squirrel monkeys in the trees.  The lodges’ location on the right bank is surrounded by the protected area of the Tambopata National Reserve, a huge tract of protected rainforest – so the immediate wildlife around this lodge is greater.  This can be a blessing or a curse, as here howler monkeys often are close by and can begin their ominous roar at 4am – an amazing experience for most but an annoyance for some.   There are only two options in accommodation at Hacienda Concepcion:  Five simple but comfortable rooms in the main lodge which are at an entry level price point, or 25 individual cabanas in the forest and along the lakes edge.  These casitas are all the same and there are no suites, or varying categories.   The main lodge is a two story beautiful and typical building, with the dining room and bar below and upstairs a spacious open lounge. A small spa with two massage rooms is under construction and should be ready by August 2019; meanwhile massage therapies are provided in room until completion.

Here you can take a video tour of the Casitas at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion.

A Superior Rio Cabana at night at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica

Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica is a further 5 minutes down the river from Concepcion and sits on the opposite riverbank.  The lodge and some cabanas are riverfront, others front the jungle, and the grounds are more manicured, you are not deep in the jungle as you are at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion.  Green grass with landscaped trees dots the property and lovely tree stump paths connect the main lodge to the cabanas. The main lodge is a very grand structure, with high vaulted ceilings – downstairs for dining and the bar with cute little sitting areas, and up above a terrace with more private places to sit and read books or play games.  There is a great little boutique shop at Reserva Amazonica and the wonderful, totally renovated Ena Spa facing the river. So Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica has more of a “resort” feel to it compared the true “jungle lodge” feeling of Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion.   Apart from prolific birdlife, and the occasional Agouti which ventures out from the forest edge, you may also see capuchin or squirrel monkeys right at the lodge treetops, but seldom howlers.

The major difference in accommodations here are that there are 4 different categories of “Cabanas” to choose from, with the Cabanas running in four parallel lines back from the riverbank.  There are 24 “Superior” Cabanas and 8 “Superior Rio” Cabanas, these Cabanas are exactly the same in size and layout, only that the Superior Rio Cabanas are right along the riverbank whereas the regular Superior Cabanas are set back a bit from the river in two parallel rows.  Set back against the jungles edge are two Suite categories; 1 Amazonica Suite and 2 Tambopata Suites which have private plunge pools. 

You can take a video tour of the property and the various room categories here:

EXCURSIONS

The excursions from each lodge overlap a lot, with slight variances from each.

In general, Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica offers al a carte excursions where guests choose what they want to do over their stay - subject to climate conditions, whereas at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion they offer fixed programs of 3d/2n up to 5d/4n.   So there is more flexibility at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica but the programmed itineraries at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion are fantastic and fit in the highlights regardless. Canoeing up Gamitana Creek for Pirahna Fishing, excursions to Inkaterra Canopy Walkway and to Lake Sandoval are done from both properties.

Canoeing up Gamitana Creek for Piranha fishing, done from both properties

One difference is that each lodge has its own trail network surrounding it, so generally the naturalist led walks will take place at the property in which you are staying.  Wildlife may be a bit better on the trail networks around Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion but the variance in terrain is better at Reserva as they have dry forest, flooded forest, etc. Concepcion has their own Cocha (Lake) to explore by canoe and Reserva has a wetland walk on their property which isn’t available at Concepcion.   Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion was at once a Cacao Plantation and a Brazil Nut Farm so those are activities onsite at Concepcion, but guests from Reserva Amazonica can also access them.

Overall wildlife spotting is going to be the same for each as it is often on the excursions away from the properties where the wildlife is seen the most.

You can access the excursion booklet for Reserva Amazonica HERE.

You can access the excursion booklet for Hacienda Concepcion HERE.

 SUMMARY

You can’t go wrong staying at either lodge for a fantastic Amazon experience.

 In summary, if price is an issue, Hacienda Concepcion has lower rate options.  If price is not an issue, then visitors may prefer Reserva Amazonica because it offers more amenities and room categories to choose from, in addition to the more manicured river view setting. Those that prefer Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion do so for the “in the jungle” experience and the option of seeing more wildlife right on property as opposed to when out on excursions.  Reserva Amazonica might be better for those looking for some down time to chill out, whereas Concepcion might be better for more active travelers. The standard cabanas at each property are very comparable in size and comfort to each other, Reserva Amazonica offers upgraded suites and Concepcion offers a more basic room option from their cabanas.  Food service at both properties is comparable, with the presentation leaning slightly towards Reserva Amazonica. 

A drone’s eye view of Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica along the banks of the Madre de Dios River

What’s the Deal with Altitude Sickness in Peru, and How to Avoid It?

What’s the deal with altitude sickness in Peru,

and how to avoid it?

I spent the better part of ten years living in Cusco and guiding hundreds of visitor through the Andes. The people I guided came from all walks of life, were of all ages, and spanned every fitness level from “never been hiking and have two knee replacements” to “I run a marathon every other week.” So, I’ve personally experienced about all that can be experienced when it comes to travelers dealing with the challenges of altitude in Peru.   

Altitude issues in Peru is a major worry for most first time visitors, and “how will altitude affect my trip/affect my client’s trip” is the the most frequently asked question I receive. This blog shares my personal experience, advice on what to expect, and preventative measures you can take. But do note that this is not from a medical professional’s point of view, but from a practical sense as experienced during my years of guiding.  

First, most people ask, “will I get altitude sickness?”. The straight answer to that is, “I don’t know, and neither will you, until you are there.”  I’ve had guests as young as 3 and as old as 83 on trips, age doesn’t seem to matter. I guided an ultra-marathon runner who was used to running up to 120 miles at a time, ate a perfect natural diet and he was utterly destroyed from arrival until departure with altitude sickness. On the other end, I’ve guided many “party dudes” who insisted on lighting up a cigarette and seeking out a beer the moment they disembarked at Cusco’s 12,000ft rarified altitude, and suffered no ill effects whatsoever. So really, altitude sickness is indiscriminate, and effects every single person differently.  You’ll never know how you fare until you get there.

But that doesn’t mean you should pour yourself a snifter of brandy, light up a cigar and leave it in the hands of the Pachamama.  There are certain things you can, and should do, prior to your trip, and during your trip, to “stack the deck” in your favor.  Let me elaborate on a few of them:

1)    Intelligent itinerary design. 

Just as people who climb Everest make their ascent slowly, and incrementally increase their altitude over time, a well-planned itinerary in Peru should do the same.  Start low and end high. The graphic below from Inkaterra is an excellent one which shows the major points of interest in Peru and their respective altitudes. Here are the main visitor sites in ascending order:

Lima:  Sea Level

Amazon:  600ft (183 meters)

Machu Picchu:  6,627 feet (2020 meters)

Arequipa: 7,600 feet (2,315 meters)

Sacred Valley: 9,776 feet (2,980 meters)

Cusco: 11,152 ft (3,400 meters)

Lake Titicaca and Puno: 12,500 feet (3,810 meters)

Since most everyone coming to Peru will be visiting Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu – let me use that as an example.  To get to Machu Picchu (which people are always surprised to learn is actually quite low in elevation and in the subtropical cloud forest) you must fly from Lima at sea level to the airport in Cusco at 11,100 feet.  This is a huge jump in altitude in just a one hour flight.  It’s generally not the best to land and sleep in Cusco as a first stop.  It’s better to land in Cusco, and then get down to Machu Picchu at 6,600 feet by vehicle and train in one day.  Or arrive in Cusco and take the one hour drive into the Sacred Valley to spend your first few nights at 9,776ft which is much easier to acclimate at than at the height of Cusco.  It puts less strain on your body. For every thousand feet of increased altitude, the amount of oxygen in the air decreases exponentially, thus increasing the likelihood of experiencing altitude sickness. This is especially true after crossing 10,000ft elevation.  So head first to Machu Picchu or the Sacred Valley, then come back to enjoy Cusco once your body is better acclimated from the time spent at a lower elevation in the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. 

As another alternative, you could choose to make a stop in Arequipa or go to the Amazon basin as a first stop on your trip before tackling the higher elevations.  And if you plan to do Lake Titicaca, make sure you do this as a last stop on the trip as it is one of the highest places most visitors to Peru go and the one where people are more likely to have issues.   

2)    The First 24 Hours is Vital

I know people are excited to land and hit the ground running in this beautiful and exotic destination, but if you can, force yourself to build in a rest day without anything planned on the day you arrive at altitude. It’s the single best thing you can do for yourself and will set you up for a wonderful trip in the days ahead. When confronted with altitude, your body must work extremely hard to build up more white blood cells to carry more oxygen. So let your body do this and don’t put any additional strain on it than absolutely necessary.  Get to where you are going, and lay down to read a book, take a nap, watch some TV, or whatever, so long as you are moving your body as little as possible. 

The air at elevation is also quite dry and your body needs to be hydrated to build up the white blood cells.  Drink a TON of non-carbonated, non-alcoholic and non-caffeinated beverages in the first 24 hours and keep the intake up the whole time at altitude.  You’ve probably heard of drinking “Coca Tea” in Peru, and yes it is good.  I personally don’t think you are getting any therapeutic magic from the Coca leaves in acclimating, but it is a non-carbonated, non-alcoholic, and non-caffeinated herbal tea, so give it a try. Ultimately you are hydrating with it.  Also your body digests food a lot slower at altitude, so digestion takes away energy from your body that it needs to acclimate.  So eat small light meals that are easy to digest that first day and make sure to eat several hours before trying to sleep; a bowl of soup is perfect.   If you can force yourself to do nothing the first 24 hours, drinks tons of liquids and eat light – you are doing the best thing possible to set yourself up for success, not just initially but for the entire trip.  If you overexert yourself, drink alcohol and eat a huge meal – you are going to feel it, and it’s going to set you back in a major way on the road to acclimation. 

3)    Shall I consider taking altitude medication?

 I’m not a medical doctor, but in my ten years guiding visitors at altitude in Peru I had way more negative experiences with people who arrived taking these medications than positive ones. 

 There is a prescription medication called Acetazolamide (brand name Diamox) that has proven effective for many at altitude. But this medication was not made for altitude, it was made for treating glaucoma. Here is why I don’t like it from a guide’s perspective:  First, you need to start taking it a few days before you arrive at altitude and need to keep taking it.  So you never really know or learn how your body naturally responds to altitude.  Second, the medication is a diuretic, so it’s counter productive in one sense that you are trying to keep your body hydrated, but taking a medication that is making you urinate more frequently.   And third, the biggest drawback I saw with many people is that there are a lot of strange side effects that the medication can produce.  The main ones being tingling in the extremities, lightheadedness, and a weird metallic taste to carbonated beverages.  These uncomfortable side effects often make people hyper aware of their body and thus produce anxiety for them, and make it impossible to determine if these sensations are because of the altitude, or in reaction to the medication.

If you have been to altitude before and know that your body has a terrible time with acclimating, then that is the one scenario where I think trying Diamox is a good idea.  But for anyone else, building in time to acclimate naturally is the best course of action.

4)    What about oxygen supplements?

There are a few hotels that market that they have “oxygen enriched” rooms. This is great if you plan to stay in your hotel the entire time while in the Andes, but is counterproductive to allowing your body to acclimate naturally if you are sleeping in a room full of additional oxygen.

Every hotel in the Andes generally has oxygen bottles at the reception desk and most tour companies have oxygen bottles in their vehicles too.  These are used if someone is feeling very ill at altitude, are dizzy, can’t catch their breath or have a racing heart rate, often from overexertion on arrival.  The treatment is to provide oxygen therapy of 10-15 minute increments as a boost, not to keep the mask on for hours at a time. 

In summary, don’t worry about Altitude too much and certainly don’t let it put you off from coming to Peru.  Millions of people every year come and very few have major issues.  If you have the right itinerary planned, and take the precautions mentioned here, you are sure to have an amazing time.

Here below is a perfect itinerary in Peru, taking altitude into consideration, and staying at Inkaterra’s properties:

Day 1:  Arrive Lima and overnight

Day 2:  Fly from Lima to the Amazon in Puerto Maldonado to stay at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica or Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion.

Day 3:  Excursion in the Amazon

Day 4: Excursions in the Amazon

Day 5:  Fly to Cusco, drive to Ollantaytambo and take the train to Machu Picchu, staying at Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.

Day 6:  Spend the morning enjoying the free activities on the hotel grounds of Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel (tea plantation, orchid garden, bird watching, the spectacled bear project, etc) then head up to Machu Picchu after lunch around 2pm.  There are far fewer people in the afternoon than in the morning, and the light is glorious.  Sunset is often more spectacular than Sunrise in my experience.  Spend a second night at the Inakterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.

Day 7:  Take a morning train from Machu Picchu to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley.  Tour the Sacred Valley and overnight at Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba.

Day 8:  Additional day exploring the Sacred Valley and staying at Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba.

Day 9:  Drive to Cusco in the morning and explore Cusco and surroundings this afternoon.  Overnight at Inkaterra La Casona.

Day 10:  A full day exploring Cusco and a second night at Inkaterra La Casona.

Day 11:  Fly back to Lima and depart, or extend your trip at this point to visiting Lake Titicaca and staying at Titilaka.

Luisella Garmendia of Inkaterra La Casona - The People Behind the Experience

Luisella Garmendia of Inkaterra La Casona

 - The People Behind the Experience -

For travel professionals that organize and sell high end travel to Peru, most have a love/hate relationship with Inkaterra La Casona.  They love when they are able to get availability in one of the 11 exclusive suites for their clients, it allows them to offer something so authentic and exclusive that sets their services apart from the masses.  But due to the small size and sterling reputation of the property amongst industry insiders, they hate that availability, more often than not, results in the dreaded waitlist game. 

We sat down with Luisella Garmendia, the General Manager, to learn a bit more about Inkaterra La Casona and what sets it apart in Cusco

---

First, what was your background prior to becoming GM of Inkaterra La Casona?

I worked many years for the Belmond chain of hotels, when they were still called Orient Express Hotels. I worked as receptionist and then in guest services at the Monasterio Hotel, which sits just across the Plazoleta Nazarenas from La Casona. Then I spent a few years in sales for the Belmond Miraflores Park Hotel in Lima. In 2008 I was offered a role in guest services for Inkaterra and took it, eventually assuming the role of GM at Inkaterra La Casona in 2010.

...only those with one of the 11 rooms keys get a chance to experience the history behind these doors.

Considering that Belmond is one of the most internationally recognized luxury hotel brands, what was it that made you decide to go work for Inkaterra?

Correct, I'm extremely grateful for my time with Belmond and still have the utmost respect for the brand, their hotels and service standards. With that being said, first, I wanted to get back to Cusco, there is something magical about this city that never leaves you. Second, I had worked in hospitality long enough to know that what I loved doing, and what makes me happy, is interacting with guests. Inkaterra La Casona, having only 11 suites compared to the much larger hotels I had experience working in, was just a perfect fit for me. You can really get to know each and every guest on a personal level, and the setting is more intimate. I never think anymore in terms of check in and check out, but rather of welcoming them into my home for a few days and making sure they leave feeling like they were part of something special for the time they were with us. Third, I'm proudly Peruvian...and had watched this beautiful colonial building sit in a state of sad abandonment for many years before Inkaterra acquired it in 1999. Then over years and years, the most thoughtful and dedicated restoration process unfolded by Inkaterra. Although known for their hotels, Inkaterra is a true champion in sustainable development and in conserving the biodiversity and cultural heritage that Peru offers visitors. So being invited to be part of such a tremendous local vision, the pride that came along with being able to share that with visitors, and the simple fact of working in Cusco's most storied building every day was just something I would never pass up. Inkaterra La Casona is also the only Relais & Chateaux property in Cusco, a real distinction for travelers looking for someplace unique.

One of just two of the Plaza View Suites at Inkaterra La Casona

Speaking about the history of Inkaterra La Casona, in a nutshell, what makes it so unique in Cusco?  

Oh, wow...in a nutshell? Hahaha... This site during Inca times was the Warakos Academy, it was the training center for the most elite of the Incan army. The foundations of the current building here are original Inca walls from that period of time. Then after Francisco Pizzaro's conquest of the Inca Empire during the late 16th century, this was the first colonial building erected on top of Incan ruins after the siege of Cusco. The house was first home to Diego de Almagro, who was one of Pizarro's Captains during the Inca conquest and later become the first European discoverer of Chile. Next, La Casona was home to Captain Francisco Barrientos and Don Juan Alvarez de Maldonado who is credited with expanding the conquest into the Amazon. And then the most notable resident of the home was Simon Bolivar who lived here after leading the independence of Peru from Spain in 1825.

So, what about during your time as General Manager, who are some of the most memorable guests you have cared for?  

Well, Mick Jagger of the Rolling Stones has a special affinity for Peru and La Casona is his home when in Cusco. We have also had Bono from U2 and Antonio Banderas, to name just a few.

But probably my most memorable guests were in 2014 when the Dutch Royal Family - King Willem-Alexander, Queen Maxima, along with their children and grandchildren were our guests, they were such a lovely family to host.

When you are not working, what do you do?

I'm always working. But, I have two precious little girls, so I'm enjoying time with them on days off....while still always attentive to what is happening at the property.

A New Rural Retreat in the Sacred Valley

A New Rural Retreat in the Sacred Valley

For over forty years Inkaterra has set the bar for providing guests with the most authentic, personalized and sustainable experiences in Peruvian hospitality.  The newest property in the collection is no exception; since opening in mid 2015, Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba has garnered numerous accolades. The lodge was named one of the Best New Hotels by Conde Nast Traveler in 2016,  made Travel + Leisure’s “IT List 2016″ in the category of The Best New Hotels on The Planet and kicked off 2017 with a feature in Virtuoso's 'Best of the Best' directory as an exemplary property for 'Bringing a Destination to Life."

Anyone who has travelled to Peru in the past few years knows that the Sacred Valley (or Urubamba Valley) is exploding with development.  In the agricultural paradise once known as 'breadbasket of the Inca Empire" there's now no shortage of choice for high end properties with beautiful rooms, great chefs and wonderful spas.  So what makes Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba unique among the other offerings? 

Location, Location, Location: One does not escape the city for the countryside in the hopes of encountering the same. Instead of being located within or adjacent to a town bursting with tour busses or along the busy main road, Hacienda Urubamba offers travelers a true rural retreat, resplendent with peace, quiet and Andean vistas.  Set away from road, between the towns of Urubamba and Calca, the lodge sits on 100 acres surrounded by imposing green mountains. Each room boasts a mountain view and the most disturbing sound you're likely to hear in the morning is birdsong.

Inkaterra property locations in Cusco, the Sacred Valley and outside of Machu Picchu

Honoring Traditional Agriculture: The ancient Incas were brilliant farmers, cultivating hundreds of varieties of potatoes and dozens of other vegetables in a seemingly inhospitable high altitude environment. Their techniques and wisdom are honored in Hacienda Urubamba's 10 acre organic plantation which is cultivated using traditional Andean methods such as hand tools and ox-pulled plows.  Guests are invited to visit the farm to learn about medicinal plants and native food sources and are encouraged to harvest their own produce from the garden for an interactive farm-to-table dining experience!

All meals served at Hacienda Urubamba highlight fresh produce straight from the organic farm

Connecting with Nature & Andean Culture: Like other properties in the Inkaterra portfolio, Hacienda Urubamba offers guests a variety of inclusive experiences to connect guests more closely with the surrounding environment and people. Learn to prepare the traditional Chicha de Jora beverage by harvesting, grinding, fermenting, and finally tasting your own Inca drink. Join an in-house guide to hike the property's trail in search of endemic birds or enjoy the sunset while learning about the importance of astronomy in the Andean world.  These experiences are available daily and do not need to be arranged in advance. Guided excursions throughout the Sacred Valley and to Machu Picchu can also be arranged with the dedicated concierge staff for an additional cost. 

Check out the video below to discover the magic of the Hacienda Urubamba for yourself!