Inkaterra's Jungle Lodges - What's the difference between Reserva Amazonica and Hacienda Concepcion??

Inkaterra's Jungle Lodges

What's the difference between Reserva Amazonica and Hacienda Concepcion? 

Inkaterra operates two very similar jungle lodges in the SouthEastern Peruvian Amazon, and people often ask what are the major differences between them.  

The two main lodges are:

• Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica

• Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion

*Inkaterra also operates the Guides Field Station, which I will not be covering in this article but more information can be found via this LINK.

 LOCATION AND ACCESS

Canoes used for river transportation, here tied up at Hacienda Concepcion during sunrise

All three lodges are located in the Southern Peruvian Amazon region of Madre de Dios, and sit along the river of the same name.  Guests going to any of the lodges fly into Puerto Maldonado airport (PEM) which receives multiple daily direct flights from Lima (90 minutes) and Cusco (40 minutes).   So these lodges are most often visited as a first stop after arriving in Lima, and before going to Cusco, or visited after spending time in the Cusco area, and before returning to Lima.

Once guests land at Puerto Maldonado, they will be met by staff of the respective lodge they are going to and driven about 15 minutes through Puerto Maldonado to the river pier.  Here guests will board specialized motorized dugout canoes for the ride downstream on the Madre de Dios River to their lodge.  

Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion is the first lodge reached, on the right river bank, only about 25 minutes downstream of Puerto Maldonado.  Another 10 minutes downstream or 35 minute travel time total, on the opposite, left river bank, is Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica.  Then a further 10 minutes downstream from Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica (or 45 minutes total from Puerto Maldonado) on the same left river bank is Inkaterra Guides Field Station. Below is a map of the area noting the locations of both Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion and Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, and the various excursions in the area.

PRICE POINT AND CLIENT PROFILE

Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica was the original and still is the flagship of the three lodges, it is the most expensive and the most comfortable of the three in terms of services offered and onsite amenities. 

Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion is slightly less in cost than Reserva Amazonica, and varies somewhat in the services and amenities offered, but has unique attributes that might attract certain guests to stay there instead of Reserva Amazonica regardless of the lower price point. 

LODGE SETTINGS AND ACCOMMODATION CHARACTERISTICS

The beautiful main lodge at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica

All lodges are built in traditional jungle style of wooden beams, thatched roofs, dark hardwood flooring and are screened in with ceiling fans, there is no air conditioning, you are not hermetically sealed away from the rainforest you have come to experience.  The lodges are all off the grid, so are powered by generators that run from 5am to 3pm and then from 5:30pm to 11pm to provide light and ventilation by ceiling fans. There is hot water in all the rooms run on a solar/gas system.

Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion sits on the right riverbank and is a short, perhaps 5 minute walk back into the rainforest from the rivers edge. So it is not on the river.  It actually sits on a small cocha (Lake) and is surrounded by thick jungle, with gravel paths connecting the Casitas (rooms) with the main lodge area, as you walk you are surrounded by rainforest.  There is a lot of jungle noise here, you really feel enveloped by the rainforest at Hacienda Concepcion and a lot of people love this aspect of being “amongst it”.  The Cocha (lake) attracts a lot of wildlife, such as caiman you can see swimming around and squirrel monkeys in the trees.  The lodges’ location on the right bank is surrounded by the protected area of the Tambopata National Reserve, a huge tract of protected rainforest – so the immediate wildlife around this lodge is greater.  This can be a blessing or a curse, as here howler monkeys often are close by and can begin their ominous roar at 4am – an amazing experience for most but an annoyance for some.   There are only two options in accommodation at Hacienda Concepcion:  Five simple but comfortable rooms in the main lodge which are at an entry level price point, or 25 individual cabanas in the forest and along the lakes edge.  These casitas are all the same and there are no suites, or varying categories.   The main lodge is a two story beautiful and typical building, with the dining room and bar below and upstairs a spacious open lounge. A small spa with two massage rooms is under construction and should be ready by August 2019; meanwhile massage therapies are provided in room until completion.

Here you can take a video tour of the Casitas at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion.

A Superior Rio Cabana at night at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica

Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica is a further 5 minutes down the river from Concepcion and sits on the opposite riverbank.  The lodge and some cabanas are riverfront, others front the jungle, and the grounds are more manicured, you are not deep in the jungle as you are at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion.  Green grass with landscaped trees dots the property and lovely tree stump paths connect the main lodge to the cabanas. The main lodge is a very grand structure, with high vaulted ceilings – downstairs for dining and the bar with cute little sitting areas, and up above a terrace with more private places to sit and read books or play games.  There is a great little boutique shop at Reserva Amazonica and the wonderful, totally renovated Ena Spa facing the river. So Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica has more of a “resort” feel to it compared the true “jungle lodge” feeling of Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion.   Apart from prolific birdlife, and the occasional Agouti which ventures out from the forest edge, you may also see capuchin or squirrel monkeys right at the lodge treetops, but seldom howlers.

The major difference in accommodations here are that there are 4 different categories of “Cabanas” to choose from, with the Cabanas running in four parallel lines back from the riverbank.  There are 24 “Superior” Cabanas and 8 “Superior Rio” Cabanas, these Cabanas are exactly the same in size and layout, only that the Superior Rio Cabanas are right along the riverbank whereas the regular Superior Cabanas are set back a bit from the river in two parallel rows.  Set back against the jungles edge are two Suite categories; 1 Amazonica Suite and 2 Tambopata Suites which have private plunge pools. 

You can take a video tour of the property and the various room categories here:

EXCURSIONS

The excursions from each lodge overlap a lot, with slight variances from each.

In general, Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica offers al a carte excursions where guests choose what they want to do over their stay - subject to climate conditions, whereas at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion they offer fixed programs of 3d/2n up to 5d/4n.   So there is more flexibility at Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica but the programmed itineraries at Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion are fantastic and fit in the highlights regardless. Canoeing up Gamitana Creek for Pirahna Fishing, excursions to Inkaterra Canopy Walkway and to Lake Sandoval are done from both properties.

Canoeing up Gamitana Creek for Piranha fishing, done from both properties

One difference is that each lodge has its own trail network surrounding it, so generally the naturalist led walks will take place at the property in which you are staying.  Wildlife may be a bit better on the trail networks around Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion but the variance in terrain is better at Reserva as they have dry forest, flooded forest, etc. Concepcion has their own Cocha (Lake) to explore by canoe and Reserva has a wetland walk on their property which isn’t available at Concepcion.   Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion was at once a Cacao Plantation and a Brazil Nut Farm so those are activities onsite at Concepcion, but guests from Reserva Amazonica can also access them.

Overall wildlife spotting is going to be the same for each as it is often on the excursions away from the properties where the wildlife is seen the most.

You can access the excursion booklet for Reserva Amazonica HERE.

You can access the excursion booklet for Hacienda Concepcion HERE.

 SUMMARY

You can’t go wrong staying at either lodge for a fantastic Amazon experience.

 In summary, if price is an issue, Hacienda Concepcion has lower rate options.  If price is not an issue, then visitors may prefer Reserva Amazonica because it offers more amenities and room categories to choose from, in addition to the more manicured river view setting. Those that prefer Inkaterra Hacienda Concepcion do so for the “in the jungle” experience and the option of seeing more wildlife right on property as opposed to when out on excursions.  Reserva Amazonica might be better for those looking for some down time to chill out, whereas Concepcion might be better for more active travelers. The standard cabanas at each property are very comparable in size and comfort to each other, Reserva Amazonica offers upgraded suites and Concepcion offers a more basic room option from their cabanas.  Food service at both properties is comparable, with the presentation leaning slightly towards Reserva Amazonica. 

A drone’s eye view of Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica along the banks of the Madre de Dios River

Summer Trips that Transform - Inkaterra Guides Field Station

Immerse Yourself in Amazon of Southern Peru at Inkaterra Guides Field Station

Many visitors are happily surprised, if not shocked, when they check into one of Inkaterra’s luxury properties in Peru like the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel to discover it contains the world’s largest collection of native orchid species (372) in the world and an Andean Spectacle Bear Rescue Project.  Or to learn that they are sleeping in one of Cusco’s most historic and meticulously restored XVIth century mansions, the same very place Simon Bolivar once called home, when arriving to Inkaterra La Casona. 

Most guests learn, only upon arrival, that their Inkaterra luxury hotel (usually chosen due to rave reviews, luxury hotel association affiliations and glossy travel literature or awards) is actually integral to the broader aims of the non-profit Inkaterra Association (ITA).  The Inkaterra Association is self-funded through ecotourism profits and is committed to scientific research as a basis for biodiversity conservation, education and the preservation of Peruvian culture and history.

Guests staying at Inkaterra properties not only support ITA by funding this vital work through their hotel choice, but in turn, their experiences staying at these properties are enhanced by learning about the rich cultural and natural heritage that Peru contains, the threats facing its well-being, and the steps ITA is taking to confront them.  It’s the “ah-ha” moment where luxury travelers turn into eco-tourists and begin to seek out, on future travels, properties and experiences that are not just extremely well appointed, but are also educational, interactive and focused on giving back.

Understanding that today’s travelers, or those turned on to this style of travel from previous stays, are now, at the outset seeking out a more experiential style in their hotel choices, as opposed to solely tangible luxury amenities – Inkaterra has opened the doors of its Inkaterra Guides Field Station, deep in the Southern Peruvian Amazon, to guests.

Less refined in infrastructure and amenities than Inkaterra’s other two, well-heeled, neighboring Amazon Lodges, Hacienda Concepcion and Reserva Amazonica – The Inkaterra Guides Field Station was built and still functions as an educational and scientific field station for visiting scientists, volunteers and students.  And as the name implies, it is where Inkaterra’s own explorer guides are trained in managing ecological projects, gain knowledge of the different Peruvian ecosystems and in guiding skills to be applied in work at any of Inkaterra’s properties throughout Peru.

Although still able to experience the popular tourist excursions provided by the other two Inkaterra Lodges in the area, such as the Inkaterra Canopy Walkway or the numerous trail networks – guests at the Inkaterra Guides Field Station get special behind the scenes access and the opportunity to participate in and learn of the ongoing projects at the field station such as the maintenance and creation of the bio-orchard of native edible plants, the “palmetum” which conserves a diverse sample of native palms, bird monitoring through techniques such as banding for codification of species and the monitoring and identification of fauna through a network of digital trap cameras around the property.

Through recently opening the Inkaterra Guides Field Station to regular eco-concious guests in search of a hands-on experience, Inkaterra has come full circle in their mantra of spreading “conservation through tourism”.  The educational aspect of staying at their other more well-known luxury properties around Peru is not just an enhancement here, it is a fully integrated experience for those seeking out a transformational travel experience.
 

How to Book
Stays at the Inkaterra Guides Field Station can be booked via any travel agent, tour operator or directly via Inkaterra by emailing sales@inkaterra.com

Accommodation is provided in either 2 or 4 person cabanas or in one of two shared dormitory style pavilions.  All meals and choice of guided excursions with a bilingual explorer guide, as well as motorized dugout canoe transfers to and from Puerto Maldonado airport (PEM) are included in the rates.  (Other optional excursions are available at additional cost) Puerto Maldonado is serviced by numerous daily direct flights from both Lima and Cusco. 

Location
The Tambopata National Reserve is one of the last easily accessible virgin tropical rainforests in the world. The Reserve, a 768,774 acre area, offers a wealth of biodiversity, as well as magnificent natural landscapes. Puerto Maldonado, known as the “Capital of Biodiversity,” is the largest city of the Tambopata region. Overlooking the confluence of the Tambopata and Madre de Dios Rivers, Puerto Maldonado is 1,312 feet above sea level, 404 miles from Cusco, and 9 miles upriver from the Inkaterra lodges.

Welcome to the Jungle... Traveling to the Peruvian Amazon

Welcome to the Jungle... Traveling to the Peruvian Amazon

The Amazon Rainforest is intimidatingly massive. It covers 2.5 million square miles, houses approximately 16,000 different species of plants and spans most of South America, stretching across the borders of nine of the continents' thirteen nations.  Generally, Brazil is the first country that comes to mind when one envisions the Amazon; after all, the majority of the rainforest (approximately 60%) is found here, as is most of the Amazon River which transects the country. However, it is actually Peru, where the headwaters of the Amazon River form in the Andes, that offers travelers what is arguably the best Amazon experience in South America, particularly when it comes to viewing wildlife. Peru contains two distinct Amazon regions with excellent and varied wildlife viewing, offers a choice of logistics that range from short commercial flights to multi-day overland passages through numerous ecosystems, and has a wide range of accommodation options, including truly upscale and comfortable ecolodges that are less common in rainforest environs.  A few days in the Amazon, particularly in the readily accessible southern Tambopata region, is an easy and recommended add-on to a Peru itinerary. 

Where? Peru's Amazon rainforest makes up 60% of the country and can be divided into two major regions, the Upper (northern) and Lower (southern) Amazon.  The Upper Amazon is generally accessed by Iquitos and is dominated by rivers and flooded forest, including the protected Pacaya - Samiria National Reserve, located 75 miles by river from Iquitos. There are a few lodges, but most exploration takes place via live aboard river boats that cruise the Amazon River, beginning and ending their itineraries in Iquitos.  

The Lower Amazon materializes from the eastern flanks of Peru's southern Andes and contains the pristine wildlife sanctuaries of the Manu Biosphere Reserve and the Tambopata Candamo Reserved Zone.  Manu is typically accessed from Cusco via an overland journey of several days through a myriad of ecosystems. Though arduous to reach, the wildlife density is unmatched; 1,000 birds have been identified in Manu, as have 15,000 different plants, 13 species of monkey and millions of insects. Unlike many rainforest regions, Manu has remained untouched by civilization, ensuring healthy populations of jaguar, tapir and the giant otter.

Peru's Northern and Southern Amazon Regions

Reaching the Tambopata Reserve & environs requires a flight to Puerto Maldonado (about 45 minutes from Cusco) and than a boat journey along the Madre del Dios and Tambopata Rivers. The boat journey generally takes place in a traditional dugout canoe (with outboard motor and sun shade) and can last from 30 minutes to 6 hours, depending on how deeply one ventures into this section of the rainforest. However, some of the best wildlife viewing often takes place while in transit by boat, especially at dusk and dawn when animals come to the river's edge to drink! 

What to Expect? It's important to know that viewing wildlife in the Amazon is not like viewing wildlife on an African safari or on the Galapagos Islands; rainforest animals are well camouflaged and fearful of humans so observing them in the jungle requires patience, quiet and stillness. (Though that's not to say that the Amazon isn't a good choice for families! More on that below.) Traveling long distance by boat or vehicle is time consuming and sometimes less than extremely comfortable.  Vaccinations and anti malarial medications are essential. Air conditioning and other resource-intensive amenities such as swimming pools are generally not available, even at luxury ecolodges. (Instead, lodges tend to be open to the forest on at least one side to allow the sounds and atmosphere of the surrounding jungle to penetrate the property.  It's a wonderful experience to wake up at dawn and while still in bed be completely surrounded by the deep whoops of Howler monkeys echoing across the forest!)  And though both Peru's Upper and Lower Amazon contain heavily protected rainforest preserves, the devastating effects of deforestation, mining and oil extraction are sadly encountered en route. 

Oh but the brilliant, bold and beautiful things you will see!  Poison dart frogs that glisten in jewel tones, troops of Squirrel monkeys that scamper across rooftops, palms with stilt 'legs' and legions of leaf-cutter ants, bearing their bright green burdens across the forest floor. Giant river otters, tapirs, peccaries, capybara, caiman and the elusive jaguar can be found throughout the Peruvian Amazon. In the North, the pink Amazon River dolphins attract the most attention while in the South, large clay licks attracting raucous bands of macaws and parrots of every color often steal the show. Excursions to view wildlife can be guided forest walks, boat trips along rivers and oxbow lakes and sometimes include ascending towers and walkways elevated above the forest canopy.  Most excursions take place in the early morning or evening when wildlife is most active, leaving the middle of the day to read, relax or take a jungle siesta! Guides are often members of indigenous forest communities who possess ancient forest wisdom; some lodges work in partnership with local tribes to offer travelers a day of cultural exchange and immersion.  

When to Go? In the Northern Amazon the year is divided into “high water” (December–May) and “low water” (June–November) seasons which dictate how you are likely to experience the Amazon (on foot or by water craft) and what species and behaviors you are more likely to observe.  Despite the nomenclature, rain falls year round and the high water season only sees a 10% increase in rainfall over the low water season. During the high water season, the average temperature is 86°F.  Flooded rivers create amazing panoramas and bring one closer to the canopy for more intimate observations of birds and monkeys that dwell in the tree tops.  The low water season is a bit warmer. The average temperature is 98°F, more migratory birds may be spotted, flooded trails dry up to allow for forest hikes and hooking a piranha while fishing is almost a sure thing.  

Peru's Southern Amazon region is far enough removed from equator that it has a somewhat cooler and drier climate to that of the North and more seasonal variation. The rainy season is from November through April when rain can continue for hours or occasionally even days. Around 80% of the annual rainfall occurs during this season. The dry season is from May through October when temperatures are typically in the 80s but can occasionally drop down to 50°F when a cold front moves through. There's a perception that diminishing water sources in the dry season help concentrate wildlife a bit more for viewing, but we've had excellent sightings year round.  

Why Go? Go to experience the most biodiverse ecosystem on the planet; to marvel at the vast medicinal applications and unique adaptations of rainforest flora; to walk through the canopy along a hanging bridge and stare out across a sea of vivid green. If you are a birder, go to tick an almost incomprehensible number of species off of your list in one visit.  Go to experience what it is like to be lulled to sleep and then awakened by the sounds of the forest; to look up and see troops of monkeys feeding in the treetops rimming an oxbow lake; to feel the thrill of spotting a fresh jaguar print in the mud and know that he, though invisible, is most likely watching you. Go because the Amazon rainforest is an endangered species, and conservation-minded and responsible tourism offers it some measure of protection from going extinct. 

Who is it For? Obviously birders, wildlife lovers and overall nature enthusiasts revel in the natural treasures of the Peruvian Amazon. The travel logistics to access certain regions and the pace of exploration do make some parts of Peru's Amazon better suited for adults.  But the Amazon is also a great destination for families.  

Exploring the Amazon with my family.

Inkaterra's Reserva Amazonica sits along the Southern Amazon's Madre del Dios river, just a 45 minute boat journey outside of Puerto Maldonado and close to the borders of the Tambopata Reserve.  A luxury eco lodge, Reserva Amazonica boasts extremely comfortable private screened-in cabanas and offers a variety of guided jungle explorations designed for children as young as five.  While the proximity to civilization makes spotting a jaguar unlikely, it isn't impossible, and excursions to wildlife rich Lago Sandoval (an oxbow lake with a resident family of river otters) and into the tree tops along the lodge's Canopy Walkway bring guests eye-to-eye with the rainforest's wild inhabitants. 

Reserva Amazonica's Canopy Walkway takes guests 100' above the rainforest floor